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by zeusthunder
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Water cooled gaming PC. Install was pretty smooth overall. Had to do two RMAs though, which I've never done before. The process wasn't difficult, but just annoying being delayed in completing the build. XSPC dual pump/reservoir combo - Pumps just wouldn't move any water at all. Made extremely loud screeching sound when turned on PSU - Fan running at 100% speed all the time, even before post. New one is working perfect.

Temps under load at stock speed are looking good. Will overclock GPUs and CPU soon.

Explanation of some of the components: Q: 2x 670s? A: Great for 1440p resolutions. Not needed for 1080p, but worth it for 1440p.

Q: Why not core i5? A: Use PC for work too, the extra processing power is nice for some of the coding I need to run.

Q: Why 16gb Ram? A: Ram is cheap, so went with 16 instead of 8.

Q: Why 1200w PSU? A: Idea is to reduce the % load on the unit, therefore reducing fan speed for noise reduction.

Part List
Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Clock Rate4.5GHz
CPU Temperature While Idle28.0° C
CPU Temperature Under Load61.0° C
Zotac GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card
GPU Core Clock Rate915MHz
GPU Effective Memory Clock Rate6.01Ghz
GPU Temperature While Idle21.0° C
GPU Temperature Under Load45.0° C
When commenting on a completed build please keep your feedback polite and constructive, particularly if commenting on part choices and possible alternatives.
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LiquidArrogance [1 Build] 5 points 22 months ago

Might want to update this build with your clocks . . . I sure hope you didn't spend more on cooling than most would spend on their whole rig and then not overclock?

Not what I would do with four grand, but a darn nice build nevertheless. Good job. upvote.

JsoN7 1 point 21 months ago

I second LiquidArrogance's comment on the overclock, you should be able to do 4.8Ghz to 5.2Ghz easily. Lovely build overall, can see the care and research taken in choosing your parts, however, what kind of programming would you be doing to require not only overclocking but also multi-threading? Just curious, as I'm in the field as well, and am opting for an i5 to save on cost and I don't see myself doing multi-threaded programming anytime soon. And I can always upgrade to the i7 if I need to.

Oh and just in case I didn't mention this, DAMN! Love the internals man, great job! Also would love to see some pics of your 1440p setup

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

Thanks, I'm actually not completely sure yet on why the i7 is needed. What I've been told is that it will help with testing multiple code/scripts at the same time. I think the i7 is a "nice to have" and not "required".

JsoN7 1 point 21 months ago

Thanks for clearing that up, I was considering the i7 as well, but when it came down to it, it's just as you said, it's a "nice to have" just in case kind of deal. Enjoy your build, hoping to get mine in November 2013. I also checked out your i5 build as well, almost identical to what I have in mind. Good to know I'm on the right track, just hoping mine can look as cool as yours. It's going to be my first build in ~10 years. :) good times

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 2 points 21 months ago

Getting the right color cables is a huge factor in the aesthetic area. It does a lot for the price. Also handy is LED light strips. They are cheap and really light up the areas that are usually dark when just using fan leds.

JsoN7 1 point 21 months ago

Nice, thanks man, I'll definitely look into it

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 2 points 21 months ago

If I were to do it all over again, here is the build I would go with based on what I learned: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/H4aC

Most components are the same, but there is some different watercooling stuff, and definitely wouldn't do the 1200 again. The fan is spinning at it's lowest RPM like I wanted to, but I can still hear it so didn't really accomplish anything. I hear the AXi series are much quieter overall and the fan will actually shut off when PC is at idle.

The thermal pads that come with the Alphacool blocks are complete crap. Surprising given how well designed the actual block is. These Fujipoly pads are absolutely amazing, can't recommend them strongly enough.

I went with more fans just because I have room, and even at 75% RPM I can't hear them through the case. So would go with push/pull on both rads, and add another front/internal fan.

Last thing to point out is the molex extensions, just definitely a good idea.

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

Yeah, I still need to do some configurations and stuff with the fresh Windows install. After that will go into OC.

LiquidArrogance [1 Build] 1 point 21 months ago

Sweet. I'll be eager to see what you can push this chip to with a real cooling loop. These suckers run flipping hot . . . I couldn't push mine very hard at all on an H100.

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

Did my first overclock. Only been running for 30 minutes so far with Prime, but getting 61c max at 4.5ghz

LiquidArrogance [1 Build] 1 point 21 months ago

Very cool . . . I was really hoping to jump past 4.5 with mine I got it pretty much right when it was released and had no idea how insane the temps would get . . . I couldn't get anywhere near five.

The temps intel says are safe for this chip seem extraordinary I didn't feel comfortable getting close to them. You've definitely still got some wiggle room!

CheesyHotDogPuff 2 points 22 months ago

Can I have it? ;D

mousseng [1 Build] 2 points 22 months ago


Erebus1317 1 point 22 months ago


Taplamp [1 Build] 1 point 22 months ago

I'm not familiar with water cooling devices, what do you mean by drain system, is there a place where the used fluid actively dumps out? I'm a cooling noob.

nr9699 1 point 22 months ago

The drain system is where the coolant can be drained from the loop when it needs to be emptied so that you don't have to disassemble the whole loop to get the liquid out.

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

It's hard to see from the pics, but the 90 going out of the GPUs is going into the top of a T fitting. One side goes into the radiator, and the other side has a valve on it. The valve makes it easier to drain. You just hook a barb fitting up to the valve, turn it, and let the water flow out.

Taplamp [1 Build] 1 point 21 months ago

Oh nice, thanks for the info. Really nice looking rig btw.

noob_for_life 1 point 22 months ago

that looks awesome and very complicated

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Hydro 1 point 22 months ago

Dayum son

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aikonel 1 point 21 months ago


nsyedhasan 1 point 21 months ago

do the 670s have a reference PCB or an aftermarket one? if so why didn't you go something like 670 from EVGA,MSI, or Asus?

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

They are reference PCB. I went with the least expensive cards available since I'd be removing the stock cooler and overclocking myself.

Syndicate 1 point 21 months ago

So much rice, great build but I think you have too many fans. Personal opinion.

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zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

By headroom do you mean PSU wattage? The pump doesn't draw much power at all, so it isn't really a factor for the type of PSU you get.

I would suggest prioritizing watercooling blocks like this: 1) CPU 2) GPU 3) Board 4) RAM Definitely suggest cooling GPU before the board.

Smily 1 point 21 months ago

Question... if you cool all of those things with your water cooling, can you actually take heat from the cpu and put it on the gpu? Or heat up the board?

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

Yes, one affects the other. So if your GPUs are at 35, but your CPU temp increases by 40c you will see the GPU temps increase slightly.

Smily 1 point 21 months ago

Yeah... does that mean that if you overhead your cpu, you could also break both you gpus? That would be a disaster, and I doubt it, but it's possible in theory?

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 1 point 21 months ago

Well they are correlated, but it isn't like if your GPUs go up by 10 degrees your CPU will also go up by 10 degrees.

Best method is to just overlock in stages. What I do is first overlock CPU, check it is stable, overlock GPUs, check stable. Run both at 100% load for 1 hour to see temps. If everything is good, I'll then do the process over again in small stages until I get up to max 60c on CPU and 50c on GPUs. Some people will push them hotter, but that is as high as I go temps wise.

I start at 4.2ghz for CPU and +100 on core/memory clock for GPUs.

Dead-Xilence [1 Build] 1 point 21 months ago


UnlimitedPwrCos 1 point 15 months ago

God i Love this build........ (bowing to your greatness) lol

UnlimitedPwrCos 1 point 15 months ago

Where did you find your cables? I want the blue Bitfenix gear.....What all would i need???

UnlimitedPwrCos 1 point 15 months ago

How do you like your MOBO

Itsuyame 1 point 10 months ago

this looks like another of those beautiful yet overpriced build that are very unnecessary, its really nice with all the blue lights but im forced to disagree with this build overall IF we mean to make a great gaming pc without going over 1300$ CAD (about $900-$1100 USD)

still awesome

scorza 1 point 10 months ago

Loving the build as much as the name i.e. oodles and oodles.

th3m4dh4tt3r [1 Build] 0 points 22 months ago

Thatssssss a very nice build you have there...though the PSU is a bit of an overkill

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 3 points 21 months ago

Yeah, my idea was to reduce fan noise but getting a larger PSU. Larger PSU = less % load on unit = less fan noise. This did end up being true, the fan hardly spins even when CPU/GPU is under 100% load. However what I didn't consider was space. There is hardly any room between the end of the PSU and the bottom Rad. So if I were to do it over again I'd probably go with a 1000w PSU instead.

th3m4dh4tt3r [1 Build] 1 point 21 months ago

Ah, yes, that makes sense. The 1200W+ PSUs do tend to take up more room

Dead-Xilence [1 Build] 0 points 21 months ago

Is this for sale?

zeusthunder [Submitter] [2 Builds] 2 points 20 months ago

Actually yes, it is

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