Description

NOTE: The prices for the parts is what I payed for them in NOK, converted to USD the 10th of January 2016.

NOTE 2: The LEDs appear a lot brighter in the photograps than they do in real life.

This is my first desktop computer, that I made back in april/may 2014. This build have slowly changed during its "life".

I originally used the Cooler Master Cosmos SE (window version) case, but changed to the one in the current build, the NZXT H440 Razer Edition. I did this because I really like the look of the case, it fits right in with the green/black theme I went for, and it is also quite quiet. All the Noctua fans, the Corsair Commander, and the Corsair RGB LED strips were all bought recently (beginning of 2016), when I got tired of the noisy stock fans, that I had been using for quite a long time, and the annoying Gigabyte motherboard fan controlling software.

I have two wireless network cards, simply because I did not have enough knowledge about networking when I bought the first network card, which is not 802.11ac compatible. I have a beefy ASUS router which is ac compatible, so I decided to buy another network card, after a lot of rage because of a lot of annoying ping spikes in games like CS:GO. The fact that I broke off 2 of the three antennas of the first card might possibly have something to with the change as well...

At the time of purchase, this build was considered "very beefy", and is probably amongst the beefier builds out there. To be honest, I mostly use this computer for watching YouTube and Netflix, so you might say the build is a bit overkill, but I also use it for gaming, Video editing/rendering, and other computer heavy tasks. When I bought the parts I had been using an old crappy Toshiba laptop with ****** Intel HD graphics, that could not even run Minecraft smoothly with minimal settings with Optifine installed. It also used many hours to render a 2 minute video in decent quality. The frustration this laptop brought me is the biggest reason of why I decided to build such a beefy computer.

You might also wonder why I have a 1000w PSU, when I have a computer that won't even draw 600w at max. Well, simply it is because I wanted the ability to upgrade my hardware later on, and possibly get a second GPU. I also wanted to be sure that I wouldn't mess up my build with an insufficient PSU, and I actually didn't bother with the math of calculating the power requirement for my parts, so I just went with a PSU that I knew would be adequate. The fact that my PSU never even gets close to its limit mean that its fan never turns on. Like seriously never.

Some info about my build: My four Noctua NF-F12 fans are in a push/pull config on the H100i's radiator, in the top front of my case, with a Noctua NF-S12A fan in the bottom front, that supplies the GPU with cool air, that has not been heated by the CPU radiator. This way I get cool air for both the CPU Cooler, and the GPU. In the back of the case I have my Noctua NF-A14 fan as an exhaust fan. All the fans are connected to the Corsair Commander Mini, so that I can control them in Corsair Link. I also have a some RGB LED strips connected to the Commander, along with four temperature sensors distributed around the chassis. There is also a 2m long green LED cable going around inside the case, illuminating the insides of the case, and the air intakes in the front and the top, which I think looks pretty sweet. My Samsung SSD is running in R.A.P.I.D. mode, so it is really quick. It is where I keep my OS and software. My 3TB Seagate HDD is where I store all of my games and all of my various video footage, images and other "non-important" stuff. As I am a noob when it comes to overclocking, I actually only use the BIOS "CPU Upgrade" option to overclock my CPU to 4.3 GHz (Any more than that ad the system becomes unstable, even with low temps.). The reason I don't "properly" overclock my CPU is because I'm afraid I'll do something wrong, and mess things up real bad.. My GPU is usually at stock speed, at 980MHz, and about 1100MHz when boosting. I really don't feel the need to overclock it, when it runs pretty much every game on max settings smoothly.

Comments

  • 49 months ago
  • 1 point

Green and Red. Really?

  • 49 months ago
  • 1 point

No, not really. The RGB strips in the case are currently set to cycle through severeal different colors, mostly green and greenish yellow, but also a shade of pink that I think is kinda cool.

[comment deleted]
[comment deleted]