Description

An AMD build in a skyreach 4 mini, used mostly for gaming, media consumption, and some encoding.

I am overall satisfied with the performance of this build, but one concern I have is that the 65W NH-L9a has a bit of trouble keeping the 65W Ryzen 7 3700x cool. It ranges 45-60°C in a 22°C room during normal use which I think is high but acceptable. However, after a few minutes under full load, it reaches TJMax (95°C), and clock speeds fall. At launch, the 3700x peaked at 3.9 GHz all-core instead of the max advertised boost clock of 4.4 GHz, but subsequent BIOS updates increased this to 4.2 Ghz all-core. I believe the remaining difference is due to the thermal constraints.

The RX580 has plenty of air to breathe and has no trouble cooling itself even when overclocked to 1500 MHz, but will get quite loud if you do so. I ended up lowering the voltage as much as I could while remaining stable at the base clock of 1340 MHz, getting me much better thermals and thus better acoustics. NOTE: Even for a normal height graphics card, power connectors are very likely to interfere with the HDPlex 400W AC, and in this build I was forced to use a 180° low profile adapter. (even then it was a tight fit) If you're a modder you can likely find another way around this, but I'm pretty inexperienced.

If you are to attempt to make a similar skyreach 4 mini build, I'd recommend using a cooler (and maybe less expensive) CPU

If you're looking to spend less, 32GB of ram is definitely not necessary for most people (go with 8 to 16GB). The skywire cables make the build make more easy and comfortable, but are not necessary. You can get the 180° GPU power adapter and a power switch for much less if you look around online. You can spend much elss on the motherboard if you go with B350 or B450, (or B550 when it comes out) because you're probably not going to overclock with these thermal constraints. Be aware that if you go that route you'd have to have an earlier Ryzen chip to update the bios yourself OR get AMD's bios update kit. If you dont mind having an external power brick you can get the 330w Dell AC adapter instead of the HDPlex 400w AC.

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Comments

  • 6 months ago
  • 2 points

Hey mate love the build, if I were you I would consider doing an undervolt on your CPU you wouldn't loose much performance and your thermals would be in check. Good luck and great build. +1

  • 4 months ago
  • 1 point

im not op - but depending on the bin of the cpu - it could drop temps a fair bit or barely drop at all - however apparently making the fan push (reverse mount the fan) through the cooler and not pull seems to help with temps a bit?

  • 3 months ago
  • 1 point

Push is the only orientation the fan can be on this cooler, unless you get longer screws from elsewhere. I have also heard that a PULL configuration is better, but I haven't gotten around to trying that out.

  • 6 months ago
  • 2 points

SWEET mini build

  • 5 months ago
  • 2 points

hey man, sick build. what are the temps like on the second nvme ssd at the back of your motherboard?

  • 5 months ago
  • 1 point

Front SSD ranges from 54-67 and the rear ranges from 51-64

  • 3 months ago
  • 2 points

Great Build, it's given me some insight to how I should finish my own S4M build. May I ask quick question, where did you purchase you PCI-E 8 Pin 180 degree low profile adapter?

  • 3 months ago
  • 2 points

I got mine from modDiY at 9.99 each. But you can get them cheaper if you look around. The ones on amazon sold by Cablecc are EXACTLY the same, and are being sold for 6.88 with free shipping

  • 3 months ago
  • 1 point

Many thanks for the advice! :-D

  • 3 months ago
  • 2 points

One more thing: if you're planning a brickless build with the hdplex 400 AC, it might be a super tight fit with your gpu. The gpu power adapter has foam to cover the solder points, but the leads in the solder points are sharp. In my case, pressure between the msi rx 580 v1 and the hdplex 400ac, compressed the foam, causing multiple solder points to contact the psu and short circuit (luckily only the adapter sustained damage) If you have a very tight fit between your gpu and psu, I recommend removing the foam on the adapter, filing or grinding down the solder points, and then taping the foam back on with electrical tape

  • 6 months ago
  • 0 points

I have a 8700k/1080 nfc build. The key is sticking to Intel and delidding. Combined with undervolting (no performance loss), replacing motherboard heatsinks on the vrm, and ditching the hdd to allow more airflow. I have real low Temps under heavy load and run way hotter components.

  • 3 months ago
  • 1 point

As if TDP is measured in the same way between intel and AMD. Sorry but I'd rather go with the processor that costs less, is soldered instead of using a subpar thermal interface material, consumes less power, and performs better https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2127?vs=2520

  • 15 days ago
  • 0 points

yeah you're pretty daft. Never said TDP was measured the same. I'm saying delidding literally removes the shielding on the CPU and allows you to cool directly to the die... Soldering is AMD's downfall especially in SFF like these. And consuming less is kind of a joke. You even said you have trouble keeping it cool. I ran a 24hour stress on my whole rig and never had an issue and overall ran way more powerful components. not to mention, stressed i pulled like 260 or 280watts at the wall. Thats under 100% cpu/gpu/ram/storage load tests.