This is my current PC "Rykka OC". The Build started in 2016 and was updated multiple times. This is my first custom watercooling and Sleeving build + custom case. It was a lot of fun! As a note: Prices are in swiss francs including shipping and taxes (Just in case someone is wondering about the weird pricing) Additionally English is not my native language, so please excuse my grammar errors 😊 Please have a look at the photos. The detailed build-process is described in the photos. Everything else down below:
First of all, the theme for this build was "Overclocking". So I tried to integrate some special features tot the case, such as a manual PWM Fan control, as well as the voltage checkpoints and the "OCK-Button" which is switching the PSU between single and multirail operation. Of course, these features are more like gimmicks, but they add to the overall theme.
CPU Intel I7-5930k You might be wondering, why I chose the 5930k instead of the 5820k. Originally, in 2016, I planned to do a 980ti 2x SLI setup. In this case I thought the additional lanes would come in handy. However, I never executed this plan. Nevertheless, the CPU is very fast. Even today the CPU can handle anything that gets thrown at it. In 2018 the first 5930k CPU failed on me. Leaving the PC not passing the POST. First I thought it was a RAM problem, so I replaced the RAM. Then I replaced the Mainboard and in the end I was sure that the CPU simply was broken. I cannot really explain why this happened (I was OCing it but never pushed its limits). I got a replacement chip by Intel, which surprisingly overclocked way better. I could barely OC the broken one to 4,2Ghz. The new one was way better reaching 4,5Ghz. But more on that in the OC Topic.
GPU Zotac GTX1080 Arcticstorm 10 Year Anniversary Edition Initially I used my old GTX980ti for the build planning to do a 2x SLI setup. In the 2017 version of the build I bought a GTX1080 with a full water block as I changed to a custom watercooling loop. This Zotac model I bought mainly because of the looks and its dual bios. It was a very expensive card but it does the trick and is still very fast for my 1440p Gaming rig. Even VR Applications on my Pimax 5K+ run surprisingly smooth. To make the card fit better into the overall build, the only modifications I did was to paint the GPU IO Bracket in black and prepare a GPU holder to reduce the GPU sag caused by the heavy waterblock. While disassembling the card I witnessed a total thermal paste mess on the GPU. Fortunately, I could clean the thermal paste from the PCB and reapply a reasonable amount of thermal paste.
RAM GSKILL Trident Z 3200 32GB Originally, I used GSKILL Value 4GB sticks in this build. I repainted the edges of the sticks in yellow to add more colour to the mainboard. Unfortunately, during the process, I accidentally spilled some spray-paint over some sticks. With a scalpel I could get the color off the sticks (especially off the contact pin surfaces). Even tough I tried my best I could not save 2 sticks from their coloured death. The current RAM sticks in the build I added in 2018. Main target was to give the build a more polished look. (And damn those sticks look good!). So far this things are working as intended.
SSD As an SSD for the OS I use an M2 Samsung 960 Evo 250GB. Installing the OS on this drive went pretty smooth. In terms of speed I can’t really tell a difference in daily usage compared to a normal SATA SSD. Moving large files is done very fast and the OS boots up fast as well.
The Case The case is rather special and one of a kind. In 2016 I bought a Phanteks Enthoo Primo case. I recoloured the air inlet meshes to yellow in order to fit the build color scheme. It was surprisingly easy to do this. In the end I even sleeved all the included case cables. Generally the Case is good. However, I was not happy with the quality of it, as I received a very dirty case which as well featured some color/coating imperfections. For this price tag I would have expected a higher quality standard. When starting with the 2017 version of the build I planned on designing a full custom case, while still using some parts of the Phanteks case. To make my life easier I cut out the mainboard tray of the Phanteks case and reused it. The air ventilation meshes were reused as well and integrated into the new case design. The design of the custom parts was challenging, especially to get the measurements and interconnections right. I started with multiple sketches by hand for the general idea and layout. After the sketches I started to draw the parts with the intended measurements. Then the parts were built in the CAD and sent to the supplier for manufacturing. As Material I chose powder coated aluminium. The parts are connected with 10x10mm M3 threaded cubes. This worked out well and is a pretty solid and strong fit.
The Watercooling Loop The loop was integrated into the build in the 2017 update. I used EKWB parts for this build. This was my first custom loop and as well my first hardline loop. It took me some time to get the hang of bending the tubes but in the end, it worked out pretty well, considering I was a total noob in the beginning 😉 It is a single loop where the GPU and CPU are connected in series. The GPU is supplied first with water from the res. The consequence is that the CPU runs a bit hotter. Due to the design I could live with this fact. There are two radiators one 2x120mm x 28mm and one 4x 120mm x 60mm. There is one speciality in this build which concerns the fans. The Outer (visible) fans are the Sharkoon ones with the yellow coloring (Those are designed to be simple case fans). The Sharkoon fans are controlled by the Mainboard. Those Sharkoon fans mounted on the 2x120mm radiator are connected to the MB cpu header. Then there is a second set of fans connected to the radiators inside the case. This EKWB Furious Vardar 3000rpm fans are true beasts. Those fans are controlled by an external PWM controller, which I bought as a kit and soldered myself (The kit is actually used for controlling motors, so I thought why not use it for the fans ). The fans can be controlled with the external potentiometer mounted on the case. In normal operation these fans are switched off and only the 2 Sharkoon fans on the 2x120mm radiator are doing the cooling. If in need (Only in extreme conditions such as benchmarking the Vardar fans can be manually started. Thus, the cooling potential is greatly increased but as well the noise level. This Vardar fans are nearly outperforming my vacuum cleaner in terms of electricity to noise conversion :D The EKWB parts feel very high quality. Even after 2 Years of use these parts show nearly no sign of wear. As coolant I used the old EKWB opaque yellow coolant. As EKWB products (especially coolant) are hard to obtain in Switzerland, I searched for a coolant alternative. I found the Thermaltake C1000 Opaque yellow and used it after proper flushing and cleaning my loop. After 2 days the coolant completely clogged the entire loop. In this time the CPU was idling at 70°C which was absolutely ridiculous. After two days I had to completely disassemble the watercooling loop and clean all the clog (See last images). It was definitely the last time I have ever bought any thermaltake coolant. After some research I even noticed that there were multiple Users affected by this problem. After this incident I used the EKWB coolant and had never any problems again. This month I switched from EKWB opaque yellow to its new clear coolant and dies. I died it blue. So far I really like the result and even prefer it over the opaque yellow. I think the clear coolant really makes the tubing shine.
The sleeving This build was as well the first time I did some custom sleeving. In 2016 I started sleeving the USB and SATA cables. For the PSU power cables I used a Cablemod Kit. The quality of the Cablemod kit was ok, however it did not fit the shade of yellow I used. As well the paracord sleeving kind of conflicted with the MDPC-X Sleeving I used. In the 2018 version of the build I radically resleeved all cables. I used a new shade of yellow that fit the case better. This time I manufactured the PSU cables myself. As an automation technician I was already familiar with crimping and heatshrinking. So it was not that hard for me learning this new skill. The final results with the MDPC-X sleeving turned out to be very good and really added to the overall look of the build. In this step I also improved the cable management by using cable combs from Clockwerk Industries (As well very satisfied with the quality).
Overclocking As it is an OC themed build, I couldn’t resist overclocking it 😊
CPU core: 1,285V (fixed)
Temps : Idle 40°C (No OC Fans) full load 75°C (With OC Fans) gaming 65-70°C (No OC Fans)
GPU For the GPU I managed to get a core clock speed of 2129Mhz boost, which is only stable for benchmarking (And even then its sometimes a gamble) Currently I use the following settings:
GPU core: 2100Mhz
GPU Mem: 10912Mhz
Temps: Idle 30°C (No OC Fans) full load 60°C (With OC Fans) gaming 55-60°C (No OC Fans)
RAM The RAM is operating as follows:
DRAM Voltage: 1,4V
Timings: 15 15 15 35
The OC settings are still a topic where I usually adjust and retry, when I have some spare time left.
Summary I had a lot of fun building and using this rig. If you have any questions regarding the PC, I will be happy to answer them.