(NOTE: This is a repost, since my original post has been "in moderation" for way too long.)
Greetings. This is my second ever build, and her name means "Blue Ice". First off, I'd like to wholeheartedly apologize for the... absolute abomination that is the cable "management". I know I should've done better than this, but to be honest, I got too tired by the time I had to RMA my old motherboard (a MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon) and order a better motherboard that I didn't feel like trying anymore. To be honest, my job is less to actually build PCs and more to come up with part lists for remote builders (that's why I only have two builds so far), and I have terrible noodle hands, so sorry again for the shoddy handiwork.
As for her purpose, well, I built her for... nothing in particular, really. I like to call her a "media appreciation machine", but to be honest I just liked the idea of building my next personal computer. I can use her for Computer Engineering schoolwork, some media editing, and some light gaming now and then, I guess.
Now, onto my personal opinion on the individual components:
To be honest, I've always been sort of an AMD fangirl, so it's only natural I went for the R7 1700X. The R7 1800X is not worth the money for me, and I thought I could try out the XFR features and whatnot that's present in the 1700X but not in the 1700, and the higher clock helped too. Value-wise it definitely doesn't give you as much of a bang for your buck as the 1700 or the R5s, but it totally crushes any Intel CPUs I can afford when it comes to non-gaming tasks, so I can't complain.
To be honest, I like the Fractal Design Celsius more now that it's been released, but at the time it was purchased (which was around all the way back to late March), the Liquid Freezer 240 was one of the coolers with the highest p/p I could find, yet also one of the most affordable. For a CLC, it's quite simple and doesn't have any fancy features, but it does it job and does it well. However, the radiator was a bit thick to install at the top, so I had to install it at the front. I didn't want to disrupt the LED fans in the front however, so I ended up using different fans for the front and back of the radiator. I know this is a stupid thing to do performance-wise, but I just hope it isn't too much of a hit.
As for the thermal compound, I chose Kryonaut simply because I heard it works well. shrug
I also got a HD120 3-pack because I'm a RGB fan, and I like filling up every fan slot in the case.
Clocked at 3.5 GHz, the CPU stays around 28 C during casual usage and topping at 62 C during stress tests, which isn't too bad. (UPDATE: CPU now clocked stable at 3.8 GHz. Haven't re-measured the exact temperatures, but it can be assumed temperatures are all in stable range.)
By the way, I know most people tend to go with custom water-cooling for computers of this class and up, but I'm not that big on OC , and thus tend to find custom water-cooling not worth the extra money. I couldn't care less about the supposed "aesthetics" it brings, either.
I initially went with a MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon because it was cheaper while still looking cool, but once I started building the PC with it, I realized I got a dud and eventually bricked it through trying to fix it, so I had to RMA it. Unwilling to wait until the RMA is complete, I then switched back to Gigabyte, with whom I've had positive experiences in the past, and ordered an AX370 Gaming K7 instead. This made the job of building and maintaining this computer much more comfortable, because the Gaming K7 had better safety features (namely dual-BIOS, CMOS reset button, on-board power button, and a properly working debug-LED system). The RGB Fusion feature on this board also natively supported my Cable Mod WideBeam RGB/W strip, though it was pretty disappointing to be honest.
...Plus, this board looked better.
I like Corsair RAM the best because they give off this premium, elegant and assured feeling that most other RAM brands can't (except maybe KLEVV). However, the Dominator Platinum variations were obviously too expensive to bother with, and the RGB versions were kinda daft, so I just went with blue LED instead. I also wanted to have some headroom for media work instead of just gaming, so I went with 32GB instead of 16.
However, what disappointed me the most, though not entirely unexpected, is that I still can only run the RAM at 2666-C16 instead of 3000-C15 like the tested ratings, even after all the BIOS updates (I knew Ryzen was pretty wonky with RAM, but I thought the F4 BIOS from Gigabyte would've fixed it). Still, it wasn't much more expensive than the 2400 variation.
(UPDATE: With the latest BIOS, RAM can now run stable at 2933-C14.)
I went with a 1TB Samsung 850 EVO for my boot drive and all my programs, as well as large games. All of my minigames, videos, music, documents, etc. go into my 4TB Gold HDD. The 850 EVO needs no introduction, and the reason I went with the WD Gold HDD is that it was the fastest HDD I could find today, and also one of the most reliable.
For me, the two most dependable and aesthetically-pleasing brands when it comes to nVidia cards are Zotac and Gigabyte. However, Gigabyte's offerings for the 1080Ti seemed a bit disappointing, so I finally decided to try out Zotac. I went with the AMP! edition instead of the more popular AMP!Extreme edition because it was cheaper, less bulky, and I figured that, with the clock rate cap on Pascal, AMP!Extreme wasn't worth the bother. The card stays under 85 C at maximum load and a clock of 1803 MHz (didn't want to try higher since I'm not that big on OC).
By the way, I initially wanted to wait for the RX Vega, being an AMD fangirl and all, but it took too long so I got impatient.
...Oh, and the sound card refused to be installed in the bottom PCIe slot, so I had to install it at the top and install the graphics card in the secondary slot instead. Luckily, there seems to be no discernable hit in performance.
Went with 570X because glass.
Although I can't do any meaningful testing/review on PSUs, I went with the PRIME Titanium 750W because I trust Seasonic. I know that it can be quite expensive for the wattage, but simply put, I do NOT want this thing to fail, so I'd rather go with the most reliable PSU instead of the beefiest one.
I didn't really get it for free, but I bought Win 10 Pro on discount quite a while ago and thus just happen to have a key lying around now, so I didn't bother counting its price here.
First off, I'm a bit of an, ahem, "avid listener", so onboard sound isn't gonna cut it for me no matter how impressive Dual ALC1220 sounds. I know I wouldn't be using a surround system for my computer either, so I didn't bother with the 7.1 variation of the Essence STX II card.
Secondly, I went with the ResolvSE monitors because they were affordable, yet also decently accurate from what I've heard. I won't write a full review of my audio gear hear, but simply put, it didn't disappoint. One of the speakers also got into some shipping issues, so I got a free set of Auralex MoPADs as compensation. Still, since I wasn't going to build Snow Pixie instantly after ordering the speakers anyway (I was still waiting for Vega at that time), I really didn't mind the shipping issue in the first place, lol.
The Audio-Technica R70x is quite unpopular, seeing how it's actually in the same line as the borderline mainstream M50, but it's nonetheless the most impressive pair of headphones I've listened to, and I've compared it to things like the Sennheiser HD 800. The R70x's most important characteristic is its neutrality, and thus its ability to play well across all genres of music. Thus, in order to keep its neutral tonality, I paired it with a Cayin C5 amp and a Schiit Modi 2 DAC, both considered better-value versions of the legendary dead-objective Objective2 DAC and amp. Again, I won't write a full review here, but this headphones system is among my favorite pieces of electronics for a reason. I also got Ori Pads for it, which improved comfort and possible wearing time by a lot.
My only qualm with this setup is that the Cayin C5 needs to be on battery to work correctly. There's no perpetual-power mode, and charging can become a bit of a pain sometimes. To be honest, I'm planning to upgrade to a Jotunheim in a few months.
By the way, since we are talking about sound, I used to have a decent microphone system but I gifted it to a singer friend, since I realized I don't use it much anyway. OTL
Since I watch a lot of videos, I put a lot of attention into a monitor's color/image quality, rather than its resolution and refresh rate. Thus, I ordered a BenQ SW2700PT, an old 27" color-grading legend. True enough, this monitor displayed some of the most vibrant images I've seen. Plus, messing around with its black-and-white mode can be oddly fun.
My keyboard is also another thing I actually acquired quite some time ago, a first-generation Corsair K70 RGB (Brown Switch). After researching many brands like Ducky, Das Keyboard, Cooler Master, etc. I decided to settle for the K70 because of its across-the-board functionality and aesthetics (numpad, wrist rest, media control keys, lighting system, I actually use all of those btw), while still working well as a keyboard. To make it even better I ordered a PBT keycap set from Vortex to go along with it. I may go for a discrete wrist rest later though, the Castle Company Bailey currently looks quite interesting. (UPDATE: Wrist rest GET! There's just nothing like real leather.)
Out of all the mice I've tried, the Roccat Kone XTD (Optical) fits my hand best, while also looking very pretty. Its current price is a steal, as well. Admittedly, it doesn't have the best tracking quality I've come across (though it's quite close), but I was willing to trade that tidbit of sensor accuracy for comfort/ergonomics and customizability.
For the mousepad, I have a first-generation Corsair MM600, bought around the same time as the keyboard. It's the best hard mousepad I can think while also looking quite sleek and professional on the desk. From my knowledge, there's no difference between the different generations of the MM600 apart from the print, but I can't be sure.
I also needed a graphics tablet to do some photo-editing work and,... well... play Osu!. However, since Wacom seemed to have some problems with quality control lately, I decided to try out some alternative brands, and the Huion G10T looked decent enough.
I also needed a Blu-Ray drive for my anime and music discs, since I don't trust streaming quality, especially lossy audio. However, I didn't really want to spend my spare money on an actual Pioneer drive at the time (sorry for lying on the parts list, guys...), so I just bought a cheap PC-mart drive on Amazon instead for $63. I MAY switch to a Pioneer BDR-XD05B later though, but for the time being the PC-mart drive seems to get its job done.
By the way, I know that putting stuff on the case (namely the DAC, headphone amp, and BD drive) looks like heresy, but I honestly couldn't find a better place to put those things. Again, shoddy handwork. Thank you for reading thus far, and I'm sorry again for my poor craftsmanship, but at least, I hope you can accept my parts selection.