PCPartPicker

  • Log In
  • Register

Build

The Glass Box

by hklenny

154
169 Comments

Details

Date Published

Aug. 21, 2016

Date Built

Aug. 21, 2016

CPU Clock Rate

4.0GHz

CPU Temperature Under Load

68.0° C

GPU Core Clock Rate

1.61GHz

GPU Effective Memory Clock Rate

10.0GHz

GPU Temperature Under Load

82.0° C

Description

Updated on January 22, 2017 - see description bottom for details.

After being out of PC gaming for about 15 years, and with 4k gaming and VR on the horizon, I decided it was a good time to get back into it. At first, I thought it would be easier to buy a pre-built desktop and just upgrade some of the parts (as I had done for my various PC needs for more than a decade), but this time around the cost-benefit just didn't seem to compare well to building my own. So, I set out to build my own gaming PC for couch gaming in my living room.

My goals with this build were pretty simple: hit 4K UltraHD at 60 fps very comfortably, yet do it in the smallest possible size and relatively quietly in my living room on my 4K TV. And do all that in a rig that could add some drama to my living room, yet in a subtle (not too in your face) kind of way. Budget was relatively open, but as you'll see I didn't really go crazy with that.

The biggest challenge was the technical target, 4k60 gaming, comfortably. This meant deciding the GPU first, and building around it. After investigating the options, it seemed the GTX 1080 was the best option that would be able to get near that goal most efficiently (both in terms of power and noise). Although benchmarks had shown that a single GTX 1080 could get above 30 fps in 4k in most recent games, reaching 60 fps comfortably would take a bit more. This led to the question - single or dual in SLI? (Note: The Titan X Pascal came out after I finished this build - but at double of the cost of the 1080 for not a double improvement, single or dual 1080s seemed like the more reasonable approach to 4k60.)

To answer the "to SLI or not to SLI" question, I went back and considered the second goal - in a small size and relatively quietly. This meant finding the smallest possible ITX vs microATX/ATX cases for the job, and of course cases with a bit of subtle style (which means a nice design and windowed for viewing the internals).

For a single GTX 1080, it seemed the best option (considering thermal management, noise, and size & practicality) was the Fractal Design Define Nano S (window version). This excellent chassis had received rave reviews in all these departments, and I nearly went with ITX in this case. But then I considered the alternative - GTX 1080s in SLI. What was the smallest size I could practically achieve with SLI?

So at first I started by searching for microATX boards that could do SLI. But given that the GTX 1080 requires double width PCI-E slots for each card, using a microATX board would mean that the two GTX 1080s would basically be kissing each other back to back, with one of them gasping for air. Further research showed that most of the practical microATX only case options weren't much smaller than the smallest ATX capable case options. Thus, for SLI an ATX case was the better option (trading a tiny bit more size for better thermals), and it would just come down to finding the smallest yet most practical ATX case. A ton of research later, and I came down with two options - Corsair's Carbide Clear 400C and Inwin's 805. Both of these cases were less than 500mm in any dimension in a tower form factor (required in order to fit in the space in my living room for it) and minimized it further.

It was decision time - to SLI or not to SLI? Comparing the case sizes, in terms of depth the Corsair and Inwin were only 40-50mm deeper than the Fractal. Though both cases were taller by 100mm, height wasn't an issue for the space I have. Given the relatively small differences in dimensions yet significant difference in what they could house (ITX with single GPU vs ATX with dual GPU), I knew what made sense. And this is what I ended up with.

(Note: prices indicated in this build were based of PCPP's current lowest prices, not the prices I actually paid. As I'm located in Hong Kong, I ended up sourcing all the parts from the US and UK, as well as HK locally, in order to get the best deals (amazingly) or to even get the parts at all (some weren't available locally, at all).)

Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

For gaming right now, I've read various comparisons of this Skylake 6700k vs Haswell-E and Broadwell-E CPUs, and Skylake's single and four core performance was better or at least comparable to these other higher-end CPUs. I also considered the PCI-E 16x vs 8x issue for SLI, and found comparisons showing that there is negligible difference in SLI performance when doing 16x/16x (or 16x/8x) vs 8x/8x, while the cost premium is definitely very significant. If anyone's interested, I can share the links of these comparisons.

Intel Core i7-6950X 3.0GHz 10-Core

Upgraded to the 6950x for productivity and virtualization purposes. Still testing this out at the moment.

be quiet! DARK ROCK TF 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler

Initially, I was planning to water-cool the system using NZXT's Kraken X41. I had ordered it but then found quite a few reviews by owners who experienced leakage. So I decided against the risk to do watercooling (and fortunately the X41 somehow never got sent to me, so I got it refunded without hassle), and instead went with a good air-cooler. Style considerations decided against any of Noctua's offerings (they really need to do something about the terrible colour scheme on their fans), and this lead me to be quiet's offerings which would fit both in terms of aesthetics and quietness.

The 805's case is relatively narrow, so I decided against be quiet's largest Dark Rock Pro 3 and Dark Rock offerings (and according to a couple of tests, the TF cooled comparably well to the larger coolers), and instead went with this top-flow model which leaves a bit more room between the top of it and the glass. Installation was actually OK, thanks to the various YouTube reviews which explained the easiest way to install it. The heatsink and fans do cover up the CPU fan pins on the board, so the RAM (or the cooler) needs to be removed in order to hook them up. Aesthetically speaking, I do like that you can see a bit of the fan blade profile reflected by LED lighting when it spins.

CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM

Since I needed to use the Dark Rock TF in another build which had CPU cooler height restrictions, I ended up installing the H5 with an extra XT140 slim fan for push-pull. I added a few comments about the H5 in my updates in January 2017.

Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Good board, with a relatively neutral colour scheme that would go with my design objectives. The white accents ended up becoming a theme in my system. The layout of the PCI-E slots was very good, because I didn't need any except the two x16 ones for SLI, and they were situated towards the middle of all of the PCI slots, allowing a bit of extra room at the top of the slots (for any CPU cooler considerations). Additionally, there was a single slot space in the middle of the two dual-slot GPUs when set up, so airflow would be improved for the top card.

Software for the Z170-A is also quite good, except the fan controller software FanXpert 3 could be a bit better. It would be fantastic if some of the fans could be controlled based on GPU temps (particularly the one NZXT 140mm I have mounted in front for the GPUs), but right now I'm having to base it on the CPU temps until I find another solution. (I almost bought the Grid+ from NZXT, but skipped for now as it is not PWM. Maybe I will reconsider later.)

Asus X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3

Upgrading to the 6950x necessitated a new motherboard upgrade. This seemed like a fully-featured, solid choice. Have left some thoughts about the motherboard in my January 2017 update below.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory

Low-profile to ensure all the necessary clearance for any cooler I planned to install. That and the white heatspreaders to work with the system's theme. 32GB was probably a bit more than I needed for gaming, but was relatively inexpensive and is there for future proofing.

Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

All solid-state was the goal here, as I decided to remove the 3.5" drive bays from the front of the case in order to add extra fans for circulation for the GPUs and CPU. To get the best combination of speed and value, 256GB on the M.2 but in 950 Pro form was for speed (for the system), while the 960GB Ultra II on SATA was for volume (for the games).

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card (2-Way SLI)

To Founders Edition or not? In consideration of the relatively more restrictive airflow design of the case (dual 120mm intake at the bottom and single 120mm exhaust in the rear), I seriously had a think about blower-style cooler vs traditional-style cooler. Certainly traditional-style cooler would be better in terms of fan noise and GPU thermals, but circulating the air in the case could be an issue, which might defeat any of the benefits. A blower-style cooler would help exhaust heat out of the case rather than re-circulating it inside the case. Then left to the style aspect, certainly the Founders Edition cards do look fantastic and are relatively neutral in design, so would fit much better in my theme. So, Founders Edition it was.

Nvidia GeF​​orce GTX ​S​LI HB Br​id​ge

Though not absolutely necessary for SLI, it does offer a bit more improvement in certain games, and helps to match the design of the Founders Edition cards for the build. Getting it was tricky though, but fortunately a relative in the US was able to send it to me. Hurrah.

Inwin 805 BLACK ATX Mid Tower Case

Available in red and gold (and infinity version with the fancy front LEDs also), I decided to keep it subtle by going with black. All of it including the inside is completely black, which is perfect. This case is surrounded by glass panels (hence the name of my rig) and the glass makes it great for adding a bit of style and drama. I had several thoughts about this case, which I will share here:

  • Generally speaking, the build quality of this case is excellent, though I did find a few things which should have been caught by QC in my opinion. First, there was a tiny bubble (2-3 mm diameter) on one of the glass panels, which I think is a bubble in the tinting film on the surface. Fortunately it was only on one of them (the front and back are interchangeable), so I just swapped them as the back panel will be facing a wall. I also did find a few edges on one glass panel where the tinting film hadn't been cleanly cut off, but I managed to remove the excess with a box cutter. As for the aluminum frame and ports and buttons, they are of excellent build quality.
  • This case by itself, even with all the glass attached, is seriously light. And strong (I can pick it up fully loaded by the edges with no hint of any creaking at all). Aluminum, wow.
  • The I/O shield was a bit tricky to get in though (unusual design), especially when putting in the motherboard and aligning it after, but searching online helped me figure out how it worked.
  • The hexagon pattern in the front is gorgeous when backlit, but that requires putting your own LEDs behind it. No problem with a strip from the Hue+.
  • Fan and board mounting were painless. Fan screws need to have a low profile in order to fit inside the dust filter on the bottom though. However, 2.5" drive mounting behind the motherboard could use some improvement. The drive sits too flush to the case, which requires the SATA power cables to be straightened out as much as possible to be inserted. (There is a bit of pressure on the connector as a result - might need to change the power cable.)
  • The cutouts for the cable routing were good, but need rubber grommets to look cleaner. (Fortunately, the way the glass is tinted and because all my cables are black, you can't really see them - though I did organize them reasonably well.)

Overall, an excellent case that could use a couple of tweaks to take it to awesome status.

Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

An excellent fully modular PSU, though I wish the included cables were a bit less stiff and better designed (for the SATA and Molex power cables in particular). Both of these cables would be much easier to use if the wires didn't enter the connectors from the sides as opposed to straight on. This makes it necessary to bend them near the connectors in tight spaces. (Though I suppose it works better in drive bays when drives are stacked.) Aside from the cable improvement, this PSU is excellent. When gaming and even with the dual 1080s, the fan does not spin up (it only starts up when 70% load is reached). 760W was definitely enough, and the relatively shorter 160mm depth of this unit allowed more space for cable management between it and the bottom 120mm intake fans.

Microsoft Windows 10 Professional OEM 64-bit

What can I say, it's Windows. (Note: I originally had the Home edition, but as my OEM license was invalidated by upgrading the CPU and motherboard, I had to get a new one and got the Pro edition.)

NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan x 3

Two for intake at the bottom of the case (which has a magnetic dust filter), one for the exhaust at the rear. I selected this fan based on a comparison of about 100 different 120mm fans, as it was one of the most efficient (highest CFM @ 30dB) and has a very suitable black frame with white fan design to complement the style of this build. The fan blade design itself is quite unusual also. Quiet and a great performer.

NoiseBlock​​er NB-eLo​o​p B14-PS​ 1​40mm PW​M F​an x 1

This 140mm is for the top front mount, pushing air towards the CPU cooler. Similar in design to the above 120mm ones, but runs at a lower RPM due to its larger size. Also selected based on a huge comparison of 140mm fans, and it had one of the best overall efficiency (CFM @ 30dB). Great fan.

NZXT RF-FX142-NP 106.1 CFM 140mm Fan x 1

This 140mm is for the bottom front mount, pushing air towards the two GPUs. Originally I was planning to use the above NoiseBlocker 140mm in this fan mount, but decided to push a higher volume of air (at the expense of a little bit more noise) to the GPUs to aid in cooling. This FX v2 140 from NZXT was originally designed for radiators so has a high static pressure, hence good for mounting at the front of the case (where there isn't actually an air intake, except for a very tiny 1-2mm wedge around the front glass panel - air mostly comes from the bottom intake). It also matches the other fans with its black frame and white fan blades. Great fan too, though build quality is not nearly as nice as the NoiseBlockers. Removed this fan because it was far too loud. I detailed the reasoning in my updates below.

NZXT Hue+ ​​RGB Colou​r​ Changin​g ​Interna​l L​ED Con​trol​ler

If the 805 is like the beautiful glass stage, then the Hue+ is like the state-of-the-art lighting that brings the stage alive. Fantastic LED controller with four RGB LED strips included, very easy to setup and very customizable. Deciding how to route the two channels of LEDs was a bit tricky, but I settled for one channel going from front to top, and another going from bottom to back. This allowed special effects like Spectrum Wave to look properly in sync and in motion in the case. The wiring for the controller unit is a bit complex, but I managed to organize it a bit. Also, the thickness of the controller unit is a bit too thick to be mounted in the 2.5" drive bay behind the motherboard, so I had to improvise a upright mount in the front next to the 140mm fans using Blu-Tack. Works pretty well so far and the Hue+ LED itself can be seen.

By the way, the NZXT's LED strips are both adhesive and magnetic, but given that the 805 is all-aluminum, obviously magnets don't work. So I used small refrigerator magnets from a dollar store to temporarily hold the strips in place while I experimented with different placements. Worked like a charm. (Eagle-eyed readers here might notice there are still some magnets in use for the LED strip on the back. I haven't stuck that strip into place as I might change the location as I wanted to avoid the LED strips from being easily seen, which they are in the rear of the case.)

Wrap Up

So, did it meet my objectives? For 4k60 gaming, that is a definite yes. Rise of the Tomb Raider, Just Cause 3, Doom, GTA V have all been amazingly smooth in 4k at 60 fps or higher. The size of the 805's chassis is just right for its place in my living room, and noise levels during gaming have been very reasonable (quieter than my PS4 when playing Uncharted 4). The glass panels have been surprisingly good at absorbing sound from inside the chassis. And finally, aesthetically speaking I think it is eye-catching, yet subtle. Going for the black case with its tint (so starting from all black when off), and letting various motherboard, RAM, and fan accents stand out in white worked, since white reflects the colour of the LEDs. This keeps things rather subtle but allows the internal components to stand out through lighting. And of course, the two silver GPUs and SLI HB bridge with the GeForce GTX logos in bright neon LED green definitely goes together with them.

All in all, I'm very pleased with this build. It was incredibly fun researching and putting it together, and it turned out almost completely to my expectations. I think the only possible adjustments I would make would be:

  • The Dark Rock TF is pretty darn huge and black. I really did want to have the NZXT Kraken X41 in the system, with its super-low profile on the CPU and RGB LED logo. But, I didn't want to risk water leakage damaging all of the GPUs and everything else. Maybe one day when I've got more guts.
  • I do wish that there were rubber grommets on the cutouts for the cabling. I did watch a video which explains how to make DIY rubber grommets. Maybe one day I'll attempt that.
  • For extra cleanliness, getting individually sleeved PSU cables would be good. But I feel it isn't that necessary since all my cables are black (so not really visible) and I hadn't decided whether the new PSU cables should be black (going for the hidden look), or white (to add more accent, though the white fans do that quite a lot already). Something I might ruminate on for a while.

Phew, this was quite a long write-up. Hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed building it and sharing it! Thanks for reading!

(P.S. Some stats about temps and performance coming - as soon as I get some time testing out and tuning the system.)

August 22, 2016 Update

  • After posting late last night and going to bed, then waking up to add some more build photos that I'd forgotten to upload the night before, I found my build featured on the front page. What a surprise, thanks to all of you for the support and comments! And oh, added more photos of the build process. :)

August 24, 2016 Update

  • Added some screenshots with FPS, CPU/GPU temps and utilization from GTA V and Rise of the Tomb Raider, V-Sync Off and On respectively. There is definitely noticeable screen tearing going on when V-Sync is off, so I've been playing with V-Sync on. The SLI 1080s do run with less load when V-Sync is on - both GTA V and Rise of the Tomb Raider run at 60 fps with V-Sync. PCPP's image uploader couldn't handle any more of my raw 4k screencaps, so I couldn't upload them from Just Cause 3 and Metro Last Light, which were getting about 50 and 70 fps with V-Sync off. Again, I'm playing these with V-Sync on which nets 30 and 60 fps respectively. (Note: All graphics settings are using GeForce Experience cloud optimized settings.)
  • Organized the fan and other cables in the front a bit, looks a touch cleaner now. Added a photo of this at the end of the gallery. Will still consider individually sleeved cables, but I don't think there's any hurry.
  • By request, one last photo of the living room setup. Note that the rig won't be sitting in front of my loudspeaker permanently - once I have finished tuning everything, it will be put behind the loudspeaker it's currently in front of. Not to fear - it is visible, upon walking into the living area from the right. One thing I think I do need now is a bigger TV! (My current one is 40".) Am considering a 55" unit with 4k HDR10 support, i.e. the LG 55UH8500. Just need to wait for a good deal to come along, which I'm sure will towards the end of the year before preparing to release the 2017 models.
  • Last note: the AX760's fan never comes on, even during full AIDA64 CPU/GPU stress testing. I am impressed with the power efficiency of the whole rig.

August 26, 2016 Update

  • Discovered that Asus' AI Suite 3 automatic overclocking tools weren't doing this 6700K justice. With automatic overclocking, the 6700K was doing a max of 4.3 GHz with DDR4 2933 settings at 75 C in AIDA64 stress testing (without throttling). The culprit turned out to be Asus' aggressive VCore settings at more than 1.4 V at load. Manual overclocking gave a better result with 4.5 GHz with DDR4 3200 settings at 68 C in AIDA64 for the same test. Manual overclocking was easy to setup - first, restored all defaults using AI Suite 3 (loading "optimized" defaults in UEFI causes it to set Asus' auto-overclocks). Then went into UEFI, turned on XMP to load up the DDR4 3200 profile, set the Core Ratio to 45, and set VCore to Offset Mode at -0.1 V. Rebooted, ran the AIDA64 stress test and multiple games and this seems to be a good stable overclock. VCore at load ranges from 1.3 - 1.35 V, and adapts appropriately with the decrease in frequency and load for power savings. Given the current thermal performance of 68 C load, it might be possible to push it up to 4.6 or 4.7 GHz, but I think I'll just keep it as-is since below 70 C at load is a good compromise between speed and heat (noise). I'm pleased with this result and with the Dark Rock TF cooler (initial auto-overclocking results had me wondering if something was wrong with the CPU/cooler/mounting/TIM, since it didn't seem to be performing as well as reviews had led me to believe). Added 4.5 GHz / DDR4 3200 overclock AIDA64 stress test screenshot to the gallery for reference.
  • For the dual GTX 1080s, I am seeing temperatures of around 82 C for the top card, and 76 C for the bottom card during load and gaming. I think these temps are to be expected with the reference blower-style coolers. Both cards do not appear to throttle below 1.6 GHz at load and do boost up to 1.9 GHz occasionally. The NZXT FX v2 140 mm fan does help cool them down very quickly after an intense workout. Noise levels are certainly elevated during gaming but acceptable. Most noise comes from these two GPUs. Correction: from the NZXT FX v2 140 mm fan, which has since been swapped out for another NoiseBlocker! In terms of speed, noise, and heat, I'm satisfied with the performance of the dual 1080s in SLI in this system. I do not plan to overclock much as the 4K 60 fps target has been comfortably reached without issue. I will investigate some tweaking of the GPU fan profiles and/or NZXT FX v2 140 mm profile (especially making it ramp up depending on GPU temps). That would probably involve some EVGA/MSI GPU tools and SpeedFan setup. Over the CPU, the dual 1080s would certainly be the first candidates for water-cooling, for the sake of heat and noise reduction. Perhaps one day...
  • Tested DOOM, Dirt Rally, Project CARS, and MGS V: Phantom Pain. All run at or above 60 fps at 4k with near maximum settings. Using V-Sync for each is not a problem and smooths out performance. Will test Crysis 3, Cities: Skylines, and Max Payne 3 this weekend.

August 29, 2016 Update

  • Found that the NZXT FX v2 140 mm fan I was using for GPU cooling was far too loud at full speed. So I switched it with another NoiseBlock​er NB-eLoo​p B14-PS 1​40mm PWM F​an and now have two for the front of the case. (Note: I did not bother to update all of the photos, sorry!) The system is now much, much quieter at full load (e.g. RealBench stress testing). According to comparison tests, at 7V the NZXT runs at 44.8 dB, while the NoiseBlocker was only at 26.2 dB. Every 3 dB means a doubling of perceived sound level, so with the NZXT it was running over six times louder! Running all NoiseBlockers was actually my original plan, but I had wanted to try the NZXT to see how it would work and if it would improve cooling. The difference was not very substantial. All NoiseBlockers is much, much better for usability and the thermals for the GPUs have not really seen much change.
  • Re-installed the Dark Rock TF with Noctua NT-H1. (Also tested the Cryorig H5 Universal in the rig for kicks, but did not find it suitable. See comment thread below with PC_Alex for details.)
  • Still in the process of tuning the overclock and deciding what to run it at. Testing revised overclock settings using Adaptive VCore control in the BIOS and using RealBench stress testing (1 hr) for verification. RealBench stress testing is far tougher on the system (at the same overclock, RealBench runs at 84 C, while AIDA64 runs at around 70 C) and is significantly better at finding system instability. Still deciding the appropriate balance between more CPU overclock vs RAM overclock, or perhaps to just keep all at stock settings to minimize heat and noise.
  • Even at full stress test using RealBench with everything blazing at full power, the fan in the Corsair AX760 never turns on. Amazing!

January 22, 2017 Update

Made a few changes over the past few months:

  • Since I needed the Dark Rock TF cooler for another build (see my build list), I switched the CPU cooler in the Glass Box to the Cryorig H5 Universal. I added a second XT140 slim fan to it for push-pull configuration, but in order to do that I needed to obtain another set of slim fan mounting clips from Cryorig (the spare set included in the box with the cooler are for regular 25 mm thick fans). For USD 5, they sent the slim fan clips to me for free.
  • The Cryorig H5 Universal seems to work pretty well, as the airflow orientation causes more hot air to be exhausted out of the case through the rear 120 mm fan. However, the absolute cooling capacity of the H5 versus the Dark Rock TF seems to be about the same, as I saw similar CPU temps with the 6700k at same clock speeds.
  • The other thing to note about the Cryorig H5 is that it just barely fits into the 805 with the X99 Deluxe II. The glass touches the top of the cooler and the fans need to be lowered slightly in order to clear the top of the cooler.
  • Added a second SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SSD as I was running out of space for games.
  • For productivity and virtualization purposes, I upgraded to the Core i7 6950x and Asus X99 Deluxe II motherboard.
  • The X99 Deluxe II is a great motherboard, but has one issue. If using the M.2 slot on the motherboard, the second PCI-E slot for the GPU is reduced from 16x to 8x even with a 40-lane CPU. Therefore, I had to use the M.2 Hyperkit card instead of the M.2 slot. On the other hand, if the U.2 port is used, then the second PCI-E slot's bandwidth stays at 16x. This is because the U.2 port shares bandwidth with the bottom most PCI-E slot. Therefore, if I want to use the included Thunderbolt 3 card, I will have to get a U.2 SSD or find some sort of U.2 to M.2 adapter to use my existing 950 Pro SSD and the Thunderbolt 3 card at the same time without losing the 16x capability of the second PCI-E slot for the GPU.
  • The X99 Deluxe II also only has one USB 2.0 port, so I needed to use the NZXT IU01 USB expander to connect the front USB 2.0 ports and NZXT Hue+ internally.
  • The Fan Extension Card included with the X99 Deluxe II is great, but there isn't a good place to mount it if you don't have a 3.5" drive bay. So I had to use some Blu-Tak instead.
  • The Cryorig H5 Universal was originally designed for only one front mounted fan, but I'm using two in push-pull. However, in this dual fan setup the pull fan is just touching one of the RAM sticks on the left side of the motherboard. There is a slight push on the RAM stick, but I think it should probably be OK. If I ever want to upgrade to eight RAM sticks, I will definitely have to remove the pull fan from the H5.
  • As the CPU and motherboard upgrade invalidated the previous Windows 10 Home OEM license, I had to get a new OEM copy and installed Windows 10 Pro.
  • This upgrade to the 6950x/X99 is relatively recent so I haven't had a chance to optimize the overclock, put it through its paces, and compare it with the 6700k. Will report back when there is updated data.

Comments Sorted by:

PureBlackFire 1 Build 3 points 15 months ago

very nice. take this +1.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks so much!

rojamb1234 2 Builds 3 points 15 months ago

heavy breathing

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 3 points 15 months ago

May I get you a room? ;)

jsoutherland89 4 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Beautiful and impressive. +1 for sure!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you!

shawfj 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

Astonishing build! Well done +1!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks!

nitrogenlegend 1 point 15 months ago

been looking into building a new computer with similar specs, just with one 1080 instead of 2. the ultra 2 is actually something i was looking at, how is it?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

For the 2.5" SATA SSD, I was going for capacity (as I removed the only 3.5" drive cage) with good speed. For that purpose, the Ultra II is a great SSD for the money. I checked various SSD buying guides and reviews and in the value range of SATA SSDs, the Ultra II had the best value, especially after I found a good price for it. I also considered the Samsung 850 EVO, but at 50% more it wasn't worth it. At this performance range for SSDs, the differences in real-world speeds would be marginal, especially for just loading games. For using it as a primary drive, I think it would also do just great, and consider that the same capacity M.2 drive would cost 4x more (yes, insane). Hope this helps, good luck with your build!

Zveir 9 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

I'm curious, what do you see from the couch?

Gooberdad 7 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

The future......

Eltech 16 Builds 4 points 15 months ago

... and a bag of Cheetos.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Haha...photos of the living room setup to come, soon as I put the finishing touches on wiring up the location for the build!

Gooberdad 7 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Very cool.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Photo added, sir! See the last photo in the gallery.

Gooberdad 7 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Mmmhmm :)

LittleL0L 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

That moment when your SSDs are more expensive than my 6600k + H110i cooler.

Seriously though, amazing build you got there. +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

...but a great combo those surely are. :) You've got an amazing build yourself, love the deep red with white highlights theme, looks clean and awesome! +1 to that for sure. Thanks for the props!

LittleL0L 1 Build 2 points 15 months ago

No problem man, wishing you nothing but the best with yours :D

PC_Alex 1 point 15 months ago

I am having a hard time deciding what CPU cooler to go with. I don't want to go AIO liquid cooling like the NZXT x61 because of potential leakage. But with the InWin 805, it says it has a 156mm CPU cooler clearance. How did you decide on what CPU to go for? Do you think I could fit a CPU cooler a bit taller than 156mm?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

I'm with you on avoiding the potential AIO liquid cooling leakage. I found on some forums that actually the 156 mm clearance for CPU coolers indicated by In Win is a conservative limit, and in truth you can think of it like this. The rear I/O shield is about 44 mm tall, but extends 2 mm below the board. Considering that there is a 120 mm fan above the I/O shield in the case, this adds up to about 162 mm in total clearance minimum. Therefore, 160 mm CPU coolers will fit (just barely) and on some forums I've heard of folks actually using the be quiet! Dark Rock 3 and Noctua NH-D14 in the 805. (Of course, you will need to check your motherboard's socket and RAM clearance too.)

For my own build, I researched a bunch of CPU coolers and was restricted to those with aesthetic designs that would fit my design theme (hence, no Noctua...they seriously need to do something about their colour scheme). Of course, better than average performance was a must too. So it boiled down to aesthetically compatible tower-style coolers (massive) vs top-flow style coolers (less massive). Given that the better than average tower-style coolers of 160 mm height would just barely fit inside the case (almost to the surface of the glass panel - filling up too much of the top part of the case in my opinion and potentially affecting the rear exhaust), and that be quiet's Dark Rock TF was less imposing and more or less similar in performance to the top performing tower-style coolers (I have links to comparison reviews if you'd like them), I went with the Dark Rock TF.

Again, I initially wanted the cool looking (and very compact and clean) NZXT Kraken X41 in my setup, so I'm not completely satisfied with having a big air-cooler, so the CPU cooler issue is something I'm still thinking about. Would love to hear your thoughts!

(P.S. You can also check out some of Cryorig's coolers, like the H7. Aesthetically it was suitable for me, but it didn't seem to perform as well based on comparison tests.)

PC_Alex 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you so much for the helpful reply hklenny. That was really helpful information in your first paragraph. Do you possibly have a link to the forum page that you found that information on? I too saw on Google Images and YouTube 1 or 2 people using a Noctua NH-D14 (160mm) so I was curious how they did it even though InWin says 156mm.

I agree though, Noctua really does need to work with their coloring. They did make limited edition LinusTechTips fans, which are black. But they don't sell those anymore sadly. I'm trying to have a Batman theme'd PC, so black, gray, a bit of yellow, and just in general dark.

I really wanted to go with the NZXT Kraken x61, but same concern with the leakage. But I really want the reliability and just wanted something that will last me forever. I've read that AIO water coolers you'd have to replace after 5-ish years because the liquid inside evaporates or gets dirty (not water inside btw). And there are air coolers that perform just as well and some even better than AIOs. I would love to go with NZXT Kraken by all means, it would complete my build and make it look so god dang sexy, but the reliability and leakage kills me. Liquids+expensive electronics=no good.

I too saw the H7, but I wanted something more high end. It was the same tier as the 212 EVO, cheap, good temps, but not premium enough for me. I'm highly considering the NH-D14 if I can and probably will replace the fans, or some other 160mm cooler if it's safe, practical, and looks good to do so. Going to have to do some more research, and would love to see the forum page if you still have it on the top of your head. I also was eyeballing the Phanteks PH-TC14S or the PH-TC12DX.

My CPU is the i7 6700k and my motherboard is the ASUS Maximus Hero VIII. I also want some RAM clearance (I want to see my RAM sticks), but with big heatsinks, or the CPU fan in the way..

Check out this video if you haven't already: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Rga483-KVA

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

You're welcome! And thanks for sending the video - it's actually the exact video which is referenced in the forum post I saw. Here is the link to the exact forum post:

Overclock net: In Win 805 Owners Club

In the next page of that thread, the same guy asking the question posts again that he installed the Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 (160 mm) without issue. (Note: that's the normal Dark Rock 3, not the Pro 3 version which is 3 mm taller.)

Regarding the NH-D14, I see that the guy in the YouTube video replaced the fans with be quiet's black fans, which certainly looks better. But the size of the D14 is absolutely ginormous, it completely covers up the all of the ITX motherboard. I feel that if I had the D14 installed over my ATX board, I wouldn't be able to see my motherboard left side (white Z170 accents) and part or all of the RAM sticks (white too). Also, not to mention the top of the D14 is almost flush with the glass panel. Visually speaking, I think the D14 would be far too big for me.

Another thing you might want to consider with the D14 is its cooling performance. I also looked at the D14 when searching for CPU coolers, so looked for comparisons. TweakTown has many reviews of CPU coolers using their standard test bench with a 4770k. The great thing about TweakTown's reviews is that every time they review a new cooler, they slap its test results onto a graph with all other coolers they've ever tested using the same test bench. Makes it easy to compare apples to apples with a lot of different coolers. (Noting that they do use an open test bench with the In Win D-Frame, which probably affects the real-world performance when using a closed case.)

So when I checked the test results for the Dark Rock TF, I was also able to compare it to the D14 and many others. See the graphs here:

TweakTown: be quiet! Dark Rock TF Review

The Dark Rock TF performed on par or better than the D14 in stock and overclocked testing. In your search for a CPU air-cooler, I'd suggest you look at the latest CPU cooler review from TweakTown (for example, this one), then look at the test result graphs (probably good to start with the overclocked results) and work from the top down, identifying any possible air-coolers, and checking their physical compatibility with your setup.

Unfortunately, I did just find that the two Phanteks models you mentioned were reviewed back in 2012 and 2013, so they weren't tested with the 4770k test bench that they revamped in Oct 2013, so these they Phanteks models can't be directly compared to the D14 or others.

Hope this helps. Let me know how your research progresses to a final decision - interested to know what you end up with!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

One other thing I forgot to mention which you might find interesting: looking at the Dark Rock TF review at TweakTown, and comparing it with the X61, there is only about a 3-5 degrees C difference between them in the stock and overclocked tests. (Similar for the D14, which is within a degree or so of the Dark Rock TF.)

Actually, now that I remember, I checked the same thing when I was considering dropping the X41 for an air-cooling solution. With the X41 vs Dark Rock TF, it was only a 1-2 degrees C difference. That sealed it for me - the leakage risk just wasn't worth the extra degree or two. (Note: I didn't consider the X61 as I wanted to mount at least one 140 mm fan in front to blow directly into the two GPUs, which generate a lot more heat than one CPU.)

PC_Alex 1 point 15 months ago

Wow that TweakTown link is helpful. And the be quiet! Dark Rock TF is OP. It's performing way better than I though. I'd think the way it's designed where the fan is facing out versus the tradition side-to-side would perform worse but it actually holds up. What can you say about the fan for yourself? After a few weeks how is it? Do you think you'll stick to it for a couple of years?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Yes, the Dark Rock TF surprised me too. Before I get to answering your questions, here is another review which I also found very useful for considering its performance with a 6700K that you and I are using:

TechPowerUp - be quiet! Dark Rock TF

This review is especially useful because it is the only one I could find using a 6700K and comparing it to other coolers. (Other reviews were back in 2015, when Skylake wasn't out yet or not yet incorporated into test benches.) The review tests the 6700K at both stock (4.2 GHz) and overclock (4.6 GHz), plus it uses AIDA64's stress test, which I have been using and find very useful for checking temps during stress testing.

Looking at the results - if you look at the OC AIDA64 temps (at 4.6 GHz mind you), the Dark Rock TF is only 2 C behind the behemoth that is the Noctua NH-D15 which most people consider the top air-cooler. It's a very good result when you remember that the Dark Rock TF is quite a bit smaller at 75% of the volume of the Noctua D15 (based on quick volume calculations from the specs on their respective websites).

Then taking it up a notch to AIDA64 FPU only stressing (which the reviewers say generates even more heat), the difference between the Dark Rock TF and Noctua D15 is still only 4 C. Lastly, consider this - you also have 240 mm radiators like EKWB Predator 240 performing at the same level as the Noctua D15 in the review. So with the Dark Rock TF only 4 C behind the Noctua D15 and other 240 mm radiators, yet packaged in a smaller size of 75% the volume of a Noctua D15, it's a remarkable result and performance.

Finally, as I described in my update to my build today, I can vouch for the Dark Rock TF's performance. I was able to overclock to 4.5 GHz manually (with DDR4 going at 3200, higher than that in the above review which was at 2133) and the temp of the 6700K averaged at 68 C during the AIDA64 stress test. If I tweaked it to 4.6 GHz as in the review, I should be able to hit the same kind of results. (I will probably keep it as-is though.)

So to go back to your questions - I am very pleased with the Dark Rock TF's overall performance:

  • Cooling performance: it's neck-and-neck with the top overall air-coolers, even compared to air-coolers that are 33% larger physically.
  • Fan noise: it has been very acceptable (and quieter than the Noctua's per the same review).
  • Practicality: it fits quite well in my system without being too monstrous. I'm actually able to see my motherboard and RAM sticks - hooray. (By the way, I uploaded a picture of the RAM clearance next to the Dark Rock TF - see the last photo in my gallery. I'm able to install and remove all RAM sticks without removing the cooler. Note that I installed the Dark Rock TF with heat pipes going vertically and it fits perfectly.)
  • Aesthetics: it is very good looking in all-black (both fans and heatsink) and the build quality is excellent.

Hands down, compared to all other available air-coolers that fit in my rig, the Dark Rock TF is the best choice in my opinion. I'm very happy with it and it is a keeper. :)

If you're to consider others, perhaps the Noctua NH-C14S is another possibility. It performs similarly to the Dark Rock TF. However, you would have to change the fan yourself. Compared to the Dark Rock TF though, I think the TF looks much better.

Any other possibilities you are considering?

[comment deleted]
Eltech 16 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Congrats for feature! A very beautiful build that deserves the spotlight. Thank you for the lovely description as well. You have my one.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Thank you so much!

AnthonyTaylor1555 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

+1 for the thorough description alone! Your build looks fantastic, and that 4Kp60 must be glorious. Enjoy it!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks for taking the time to read it!

Gooberdad 7 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Wow long description, but very informative. Great pc build.

Thumbs up +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Cheers!

metakortex 1 point 15 months ago

Congratulations for the feature and a terrific build !

Get a Corsair Lapdog for the system, should really serve the couch-gaming needs you have !

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Appreciate it! Will have to check out the Lapdog. Apparently there's also some Razer thing too...

tejadam868 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

Apprently the razer turret isn't all that great. The lapdop is nice paired with a k70 or k65 (but a bit pricey). All depends on the games you play though.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks for the tip! Currently I'm just using the Xbox One wireless controller. Somehow, I managed to find this controller in Play and Charge Kit form for the same price as just the controller by itself! Just added the wireless dongle to complete. Works very smoothly and without much fuss in all games I've tried so far.

One thing I am curious about is the Steam Controller. Wonder if that works well for those mouse-based strategy games (more Cities Skylines as opposed to Starcraft etc for me).

Wolklung 1 point 15 months ago

Wow. Great Build. The combo of NZXT Hue and the 805 case is unreal!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks! My jaw dropped the first time I turned it on too, I was definitely surprised. :) The full glass panels on three sides and little touches like the hexagon front grill design really work for full Hue+ lighting.

ImperiousBattlestar 1 point 15 months ago

Beautiful case, looks stunning. +1 :)

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you so much! :)

almostquik 1 point 15 months ago

Flawless build easy +1 for sure

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks!!

data129 1 point 15 months ago

Great Build! The only thing i would have used different is power cable for the video and motherboard. I would use flat cables but round is ok.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

I too like the flat and combed cable look for video and motherboard, but I haven't decided what colour (black or white) to replace them with. There's no PSU shroud so if I used white for example (which would certainly look great at the video and motherboard), the mess of the white cables coming out of the PSU would be more obvious. (It's pretty hard to keep that area organized, given the limited clearance between the PSU and fans - hence why I went with a relatively short 160 mm PSU.)

On the other hand, leaving them all in black makes them less obvious near the PSU (the whole area down there is black). Decisions, decisions. If you have any other ideas, would love to hear them!

NipsiumOxide 3 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Loving the color setup :D Wicked sick build too +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks so much! :)

Santoryu2510 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

just curious. are your running on 4k?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Do you mean running the PC at 4k resolution? Yes, the TV I am using with this rig is 4k 60Hz ready with HDMI 2.0 inputs. So I run it natively at 4k60.

issac.mantle 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

Went to check on my own featured build, but found this there instead. You deserve the featured build too :P. +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Thanks! Congrats to you also on being featured too! Love your all white build too, really awesome and clean. I had been inspired by AwesomeSauce's White Build video on YouTube, which just looked amazing. But there was no white version of any of the cases I considered using, so I took some of those white elements and incorporated them into my build. Added my +1 to your build! Cheers!

issac.mantle 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

Thx :D

The_Confused_first_timer 1 Build 1 point 15 months ago

Holy Mary mother of description.
That behemoth alone gets you my +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Hope that was enough detail for you! :P

_FraNk_ 1 point 15 months ago

This is impressive. Well done!

I'm quite new at putting a rig together, so please forgive this newb question:

Don't you need like a DVD reader in order to install stuff and such?? I don't see one on the pictures.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you so much!

And no worries, always welcome questions. Nowadays, the DVD reader is not needed as much, and I didn't want any 5.25" bays as I wanted to keep this build compact (hence this case doesn't have any).

Windows 10 can be downloaded and installed via USB using the Microsoft download tool. In fact, the OEM version of Windows I have is a DVD, but I didn't use it. I just needed the key that came with the DVD and it worked fine with the USB install.

For games, most of my games are from Steam, which are just downloaded from the cloud. It does take a while for some games (e.g. the 65 GB monster that is GTA V), but fortunately I have 300 Mbps fibre broadband (we are super wired over here in Hong Kong, they actually have 10 Gbps fibre to the home available too - fibre broadband is readily available and inexpensive here due to the high density and tough competition) so it downloads from Steam at over 30 MB/sec.

As for DVD games, I just ordered some from Amazon, but apparently I can enter the keys into Steam so it can be downloaded and activated within Steam. I haven't actually tried it yet, but if it doesn't work I'll post back here.

And as a backup, I have an old USB DVD Drive. ;)

wasupduck 1 point 15 months ago

bro das ridiculous

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

:)

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Received seven DVD games from Amazon yesterday, all but one could be downloaded and installed off Steam or Origin using the enclosed game keys. So, using an external DVD drive for occasional use is definitely feasible!

G_I_L 1 point 15 months ago

You surely put a lot of effort into it! In the PC and the description :P

You got my honest +1 here buddy! This build is absolutely beautiful!! :D

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks man! Appreciate it a lot! :)

vekspec 5 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Woot! +100th

Very smexy looking build! Great job!

The LED on the ref gpus, can you change their color?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you!

Unfortunately, Nvidia made sure that you can't change the LEDs for the GeForce GTX logo from the Nvidia green. Wouldn't it be funny if they could be changed to red? :)

glot7 1 point 15 months ago

It seems it is now possible to get Nvidia's HB SLI bridges.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Yup, indeed. I got lucky when I ordered it several weeks ago - the three-slot was in stock, but the others were not. It shipped almost immediately.

Just checked the Nvidia Store, and they are all in stock now.

I saw on eBay that people were selling them for double the price or more. There was no way I was supporting that, so I enlisted the help of a relative to send it to me from the US. :)

glot7 1 point 15 months ago

Yeah, the demand was really high for the new HB bridges when they were released. The bridges are available now, either because the craze has lessened, or Nvidia has made much more.

Either way, incredible build :D

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thank you, sir! :)

colinreay 3 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Research payed off man, you have yourself one heck of a beauty for a system!

Congrats on the future, I really like the unique component choice you have going on here.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks a lot! Building it and enjoying the finished product is surely great, but researching it was definitely half the fun too. :)

ngsieuviet1999 1 point 15 months ago

Everything goes perfect together. Best build imo. +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks for the props!

JackMex 1 point 15 months ago

Quite an aesthetically-pleasing build with some rock-solid hardware!

How are your temps? Are you maxing out the in-game settings? Do you feel that a single GTX 1080 would suffice, and thus, bypass problems that SLI might bring about?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Thanks!

Forgot to mention what graphics settings I was using at 4k - added that info to the update. To start I'm using the GeForce Experience optimized settings for all games. Looking at it quickly, all settings do seem to be almost set to max. Only some anti-aliasing settings aren't set to completely maxed out. Will try upping those later.

SLI hasn't actually had any issues so far. No game stuttering, crashes, or anything. Only anomaly I've experienced so far is that GTA V crashes everytime after I change the V-Sync settings. But I only did that for testing frame rates, so that isn't a big issue, and it may be a problem of the game itself rather than SLI.

I haven't tried single GPU yet, will try that later and report back. Of course, some games like Just Cause 3 don't support SLI. Running the game with SLI still turned out does not have any issues though, and my setup could do 50 fps without V-Sync. I think frame rates with a single GTX 1080 can reach 30 fps with most games in 4k. Some reduction of graphics settings in some games might be needed however, depending on the game. Remarkably, I've had no issues with SLI, so am very pleased with it. And it gets much closer to that 60 fps target I originally set.

For temps, you can see some of those in the game screenshots I uploaded. GTX 1080 Founders Edition temps are pretty typical at around 75-82 C during gaming. CPU stays below 75 C average. Similar temps are seen when running AIDA64 stress tests on CPU and GPU simultaneously.

JackMex 1 point 15 months ago

Excellent comprehensive response, thank you.

I look forward to your water cooling update. ;)

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Water cooling does look fantastic and has great peformance benefits, but I am seriously afraid of what would happen if it leaked all over $1400 worth of GPUs... :P

(Side note - amazingly, the Dark Rock TF I am using is only about 5 C hotter than the NZXT Kraken X61 in standard tests, according to this review.)

JackMex 1 point 15 months ago

If you go water, go with a full custom loop. Those AIO water coolers are hit or miss.

You don't need to worry about leaks with a full custom loop. Just run a leak test with your hardware shut off for several hours up to 24 hours, or as long as you want until you feel comfortable about the leak-free status of your loop. Once the leak-free nature of your loop has been determined, enjoy the benefits of significantly lower temps and significantly higher performance and overclocking overhead.

Oh, hallelujah!

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks for the tips, you are certainly right about that. Full custom loops are the way to go for water cooling. Not to mention, very visually appealing when put together well.

As I have no experience with building a full custom loop, is there a difference between using hard tubing vs soft tubing? Aesthetically speaking, hard tubing does look cooler, but soft tubing seems to be much easier to work with. Any differences in reliability? How about all the necessary fittings, pumps, reservoirs etc?

wasupduck 1 point 15 months ago

You should consider the Samsung UN55KS8000 as an alternative to LG, due to the fact that the lg has sub-par quality in darkness and could be brighter. The Samsung has lower input lag which in optimized in gaming, allowing for a smoother experience. I love the look of your pc tho. +1

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks for the tip man, will look into it! As prices for TVs drop a lot at the end of the year with the next year's refreshes coming, I will probably wait until the end of the year for a good deal. Tough competition is awesome for consumers. :)

And thanks for the props!

wasupduck 1 point 15 months ago

Good idea

Lyrix 1 point 14 months ago

Very very hot

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 14 months ago

Thanks!

TheMightestOfUsAll 1 point 13 months ago

Hows the air flow in this case? It looks amazing

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 13 months ago

Thanks! Out of the box, the 805 only comes with one 120 mm rear fan. So if used with the stock setup, the airflow is very poor. You will need to install more fans to improve airflow.

With all fans installed as shown in my setup (two 120 mm at the bottom, two 140 mm at the front, one 120 mm at the rear), the airflow is pretty decent. However, I would say that the two 140 mm fans in the front do not draw much airflow from the outside (due to very small gap in the front panel - supposedly there is a way to increase the gap, but I have not tried this yet), while the two 120 mm fans in the bottom do draw quite a lot of air from the outside because there is a sufficient gap between the bottom of the case and the floor. (I do not recommend putting it on carpet.)

In addition, when using this case I highly advise using blower-type GPUs to improve overall airflow and cooling. The blower-type GPU (or GPUs as in my case) avoids recirculating the GPU heat inside the case, and instead exhausts it outside. Therefore, if there is sufficient intake (I recommend using both 120 mm fans at the bottom), the blower-type GPUs act as additional exhaust fans to aid the single 120 mm rear exhaust fan. Hence, there will be enough airflow through the system.

TheMightestOfUsAll 1 point 13 months ago

Ah perfect! I was really worried about getting this case and thought I would have to get the 909 instead for good airflow. I have a Zotac FE 1080 so it's good to hear that it helps with the cooling!

Still unsure if I am getting this or the Anidees Ai Crystal, or the phanteks Evolv ATX glass

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 13 months ago

I think all three cases are good choices! It just boils down to aesthetic preference and your usage needs of the internal space.

Personally speaking, I am not a fan of LED case fans (looks kind of tacky imho), so I would steer away from the Anidees. I also don't like how you can see the fan mounting rails and everything through the front. I think the honeycomb pattern of the 805 (especially when backlit with LEDs) looks more interesting yet is subtle.

The Phanteks does look very nice and is a popular choice as you'll see on this site. I almost considered going with the Phanteks too, but in the end I decided I wanted less "metal" showing so it would look less like a PC. (The top and front of the Phanteks have very large and obvious panels of metal, and you can immediately tell it is a PC.) The 805 in all black with tinted side panels as I have looks very, very discreet when powered off. So it doesn't stand out and it goes unnoticed by by most people. But turn it on - then it sort of bursts into life with the full LED lighting provided by the Hue+. That's when it puts a smile on your face and makes you say wow! ;)

Anyway, good luck with your case decision!

TheMightestOfUsAll 1 point 13 months ago

I think you just made the decision for me lol.

But if I can ask, why not get the deluxe version of the motherboard you have?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 13 months ago

Haha...would be great to have another 805 owner join the club! There aren't many here, and I think In Win does a fine job with their cases.

One other thing I forgot to mention - the 805 is an all-aluminium build, so it is incredibly light despite the glass. It's 6.8 kgs as compared to 10.2 kgs for the Phanteks, so is almost half the weight. Yet when the 805 is fully loaded, it is very sturdy. I've never heard any creaks.

I considered the Deluxe version of the Asus board when I bought it, but it only gave WiFi and a better VRMs for overclocking, but cost an 80% premium on the Z170-A. I don't overclock much as there isn't much gain to be made considering the extra money spent on cooling and extra noise and heat. Then I didn't need the WiFi as I use a 1 Gbps Ethernet connection to my 300 Mbps broadband. WiFi is far less relliable than Ethernet and I wanted maximum download speed from Steam (it downloads at over 30 MB per second).

Which motherboards are you considering? What else is in your build?

TechCube 1 point 13 months ago

Nice +1 Love it

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 13 months ago

Thanks!!

PC_Alex 1 point 11 months ago

How did you connect your fans to your motherboard? Mine doesn't have enough 4-pin slots.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 11 months ago

I used a PWM splitter. But by default, I had enough fan connectors for all my fans and only needed one PWM splitter.

On my Asus Z170-A motherboard, there are 2 x CPU fan connectors and 4 x case fan connectors.

I have 2 x CPU fans and 5 x case fans.

Hence:

2 x CPU fans ==> 1 x CPU fan connector and 1 x CPU Opt fan connector

5 x case fans ==> 4 x case fan connectors by using 1x PWM splitter from the Dark Rock TF (i.e. 3 fans directly connected to 3 case fan connectors; 2 fans connected using a PWM splitter to 1 case fan connector)

Camaxide 1 Build 1 point 10 months ago

With all the lights, is it possible to turn it all off for home theatre movie watching mode? I like the case pic before things are installed where you only see the black slick reflection of the surroundings and not inside the case. I hope to build something that will fit with my high gloss finish speakers as it will stay next to them, and I could very well go with lights if they can all be turned off completely.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 10 months ago

Yes, it is possible to turn off all of the NZXT Hue's LED lights. However, the green "GeForce GTX" logo on the Founders Edition GTX 1080 cards cannot be turned off. You would need to choose a different GPU which has no LEDs or ones that can be completely turned off. Note that the power and HDD access lights of the In Win 805 also cannot be turned off (unless you don't connect them to the motherboard at all).

If you are looking for a black glossy style mostly tempered glass case, then the In Win 805 is a very good choice.

Shadow_Tech 1 point 5 months ago

Hey, I'm planning on getting this cooler but I'm wondering did you have to buy the fan bracket separate to the extra fan?

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 4 months ago

Sorry for the late reply - the notification for this message got lost in my e-mail.

You will need two more slim fan clips from Cryorig in order to add a second slim fan to the other side of the cooler. (The retail package only comes with one pair of slim fan clips and one pair of normal fan clips.) You can contact Cryorig technical support, and they will let you know how much it costs (I think USD 5 + shipping) to have it sent to you.

Of course, if you feel adventurous you could get some strong wire (not sure what gauge) and make your own slim fan clips by copying the ones you already have. :)

Good luck!

Ghrolt 1 Build -1 points 15 months ago

For the love of god get some good looking cables. That cable mess is ruining it.

hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Now in progress...as I mentioned before, considering what colour (black or white) to get. White looks nice, but all of the rest of the cables (which can't be changed, like fans, front I/O, Hue+ etc) are black. That's the thing about the 805 case - no PSU shroud, no rubber grommets, and a full size glass back panel means everything is laid to bare...

And looking back at the pictures, the cables I have could use just a wee bit more organizing. :P

[comment deleted]
hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 9 months ago

The Cryorig H5 Universal only comes with one fan.

I bought an extra XT140 slim fan thinking that it could be used with the included extra set of fan clips that came with the cooler. However, those are for regular 25 mm thick 140 mm fans. So if you want to use a second XT140 in push-pull, you'll need to contact Cryorig support. They can send you an extra set of slim fan clips for the cost of postage.

[comment deleted]
[comment deleted]
hklenny submitter 2 Builds 1 point 15 months ago

Thanks, and shall have to check that one out!

[comment deleted]
hklenny submitter 2 Builds 2 points 15 months ago

Thank you!

The TL;DR version of my build description is that building PCs is super fun, and PCPP rocks! :)