Bits power Acrylic fittings EK water blocks 1X 240mm by 30mm Rad(Top) 1x 240mm by 45mm Rad(front) 4X swiftech Helix 2X Sp120 quiet edition 1x Noctua Nfp-12 (Exhaust) Phobya 6touch fan controller NZXT Hue Slight modification done Working on Custom Acrylic Side panel 3X 1440p monitors from Asus are currently out of stock(be uploading the pics once ive receive them)
Turning my dreams into reality :D Love taking challenges, they just bring satisfaction when i've knock them down. Well, Thanks to the feedback given by 9DeT and some others. ill take you, the viewers, the insights to how i came out with the plans for built Craz_Nova_.
- I wanted a triple 1440p monitor setup(which explains 2x290)
- It's part of my challenge to myself. Bending acrylic Tubing without the use of 90 degree fittings which to me was childs play and something anyone could do. I NEEDED A REAL CHALLENGE
- I believe 'less is indeed more' so i "downgraded from a switch 810 to a 600T. Fitting all that i wanted, involved modding(Using a dremel for the cuts at the front to fit my push pull config)
Alright! With all that said, let's hop into the thinking process. From the start i knew i needed at least 2 240mm radiators to cool off my r9 290s and wanted to fit a bitspower flow indicator that means i had to remove all the drive cages as well as the base to it. Well, a 600T won't exactly let you fit a 240 in the front so i cut a rectangular opening(dimensions depending on how thick your rad is with the 2 pairs of fans) on the bottom so as to fit my hard disk into one of the 5.25 bay slot. With that settled, i then when on to mount my X-top with my Switchech D5 vario onto it and my 150ml rad.
note, A X-Top is essential in any water-cooling built so as to mount the pump, which is otherwise useless without it. Think it this way, they are sexual organs :X
Now that all that is said and done, planning the flow to go clockwise or anti-clockwise was essential, YOU HAVE TO THINK WHICH IS BEST TO BLEED THE LOOP. So, i went with clockwise, pump-res-fitting-flow indicator-bottom r9-top r9(series config)-cpu-top rad-front rad. Take note the material in which you pick for your entire loop must be uniform as overtime due to metal-liquid corrosion it will actually change the colour of your coolant. galvanic corrosion they call it. Something to learn for all :D For acrylic tubing all you need is the acrylic fitting, the right size tubing inner diameter and outer diameter, and a bunch of 90 degree fittings. One note of advise- its always good to have slightly more fittings then you need to ease the process. ALRIGHT ALRIGHT.. TOO MUCH OF SOMETHING IS NOT GOOD. WELL, HERE I AM TO PROVE TO YOU THAT THAT ISN'T TRUE WITH ALL THINGS(: Estimate roughly around 2 fittings per loop excluding the 90 degree ones. A heat gun is essential to banding acrylic so is silicon tube to prevent the acrylic from breaking off inset it when heating and use it to assist you with banding after marking the spot. Sand the ends with 300grit sand paper to fit the tubing into the fitting. Flush the loop with distilled water to prevent contamination and then drain it again if you want a colored coolant add it, if you desire a clear coolant replace it and add a kill coil or a few drops of anti-corrosive liquid. Spend sometime watching Singularity computers and you will have a better understanding! GOOD LUCK! God bless ya all.