Hy all (and SFMBE)!
This guide is intended to show some possible compatibility issues for people who are going to work with this case, GPU and CPU cooler mainly.
So... This is a personal build, mainly for browsing and watching movies, some work (AutoCAD and others) and I hope there'll be some gaming 1080p.
I hope you'll like this build! But ultimately it really doesn't matter.
Half of my part list is from my "older" (like 1-1,5YO) build, which was in a Raijintek Metis case. Is't a very small form factor case, almost half the size of the Thermatake (~13,5 vs ~23 l), but i didn't have so many parts in it (1-1 HDD, SSD), and I didn't plan to have a dedicated GPU. That's why I chose the semi-modular CM G550M, although now I'd choose otherwise. A year passed and I got tired of the fan noise in the Metis (case and PSU). It had a terrible airflow, tiny openings and so on. I probably could have done it better, but decided to move on.
The MB, CPU, PSU, RAM, 120GB SSD is from my old build above. The new parts were: the case, the CPU cooler, the GPU, all the fans, and I switched my 1TB HDD to a 250GB SSD. The things worth mentioning, in addition to the "Part Reviews" section:
Fans and CPU cooler: I have the PC on the desk, like 83,577cm from my ears (~32 inch in ****** unit), so I figured why not build a silent PC. And by silent I mean quiet... When idling... And relatively cheap... So I've bought 3 PureWings2 PWM case fans (in really good price) and a CPU cooler with another PW2 fan. They all operate from the CPU fan header, with an Arctic PST cable. Later I'll configure it (probably with speedfan) to work according to the GPU temps. The Noiseblocker one replaced the PSU fan (with a 3pin->2pin adapter) and I am really satisfied with the overall outcome. From ~30cm the whole config is barely audible, from my chair it's virtually silent. Even my desk lamp is louder than the PC. Maybe I'll have to put a Be Quiet fan on it, too.
HDD->SSD: I've switched them, because now the HDD was the loudest component in the rig. I have a small home NAS in raid 1 for family stuff, so probably I'll be alright. I install one game at a time, plus some minimal torrenting, that's all. The routine stays the same: watch a movie, then delete it. The SSD is a Samsung 750 Evo 250GB. I didn't want to spend more, because torrenting is not necessarily good for SSDs (but I clearly don't care).
THE BUILDING ITSELF
(Apart from the "actual building itself", because it's not a tutorial...)
I got some matte black foil from a stationery shop and taped over the visible bequiet logos on the fans.
All 3 case fans and the PSU fan were mounted with Akasa rubber pins, which I can't praise enough.
Strangely the 750Evo wobbled a bit on the tray (the 850Evo did not), so I taped underneath that, too.
I got so good using this foil, I taped over that big cutout between the lower and upper chamber. I got no cables running through it. Unfortunately there's no pictures yet, sorry.
I wanted to place the case on the side, so I can glaze upon my glorious collection of bequiet fans, so I bought 4 rubber feet, instead of swapping the side panels accordingly. That's the plain and simple solution, but then the cutout would cover ~1/4 of the PSU's mesh.
The RAM vs CPU cooler was a close call, but I was lucky. I have a solid mm between the fins and the modules, so pay attention when selecting modules with heatsink on it.
I don't have pictures about the PSU fan replacement, but it's easy. I'll write it down, but don't do it, you'll get elecrocuted. First, search for pictures/reviews of your PSU, so you can check the fan connection type. If it's a 2pin header like mine, buy a 3pin ->2pin adapter. Second, void the warranty of your PSU by getting the cover down. Third, be suprised that your adapter doesn't fit on the header. It's because you bought the wrong one, there is 2,54 and 2 version of this 2pin molex connector (but I don't remember and im not an expert). What I did was switching the two 2pin connectors, by removing them from the cables, using staples (there are YT videos, check custom fan cables). Of course the connectors are not identical, therefore the pins are different as well, but it's possible to stuff it in anyway. I was gonna use a DeepCool rubber buffer as well, but it would only fit with a slim fan.
The 1060 is also a close call. First, it barely fits, the only way to feed it to the case is through the opening on the front. Next problem is the 8pin connector. As you can see on the pictures, it is barely accessible. Maybe a different 8pin cable would've solved the problem, but with this one, the stress on the connector would keep the motherboard under constant pressure. I didn't want to buy new parts, cables, etc so with a little tweaking I got it work. I used a metal file...
Thermaltake wants us to mount our drives upwards, with the sata cables all visible and hanging around. Turning the SSDs around requires another bit of fine tuning, but after rasping the case, a little bend doesn't hurt anyone's feelings. I hope it's visible on the picture, the SATA power cable didn't have enough space.
I don't like fixing cables "permanently" with cable ties, but I got myself on cabletying cabletied cables to each other...
Cable management took like 2 hours minimum, partly because I had the CPU cooler mounted already (I had the config runnung without GPU and LED for a month). For a new beginning and tidy cables I've guted the case complitely. First I had to place the MB/PSU/GPU inside, just to route the cables broadly in head, take the MB out and connect the pwr/reset/hdd led cables on the MB, connect everything together while the MB is still outside the case to make a test power on. Then put inside everything one-by-one again and do the actual cable routing.
The RGB LED inside is from a lighting shop. Cheap. I used ~50cm strip, ~75cm extension cable, a wireless remote and controller. The controller was capable to accept both traditional 12V power input (that roundy one) and by 2 wires. So I bought a (short) molex extender, connected it to the PSU's molex connector, cut the other end down and screwed the wires in. If you only have weak red light, but otherwise it's working, you connected the 5V instead of the 12V. Like I did.
Have fun with your build! Cheers!
I'm quite pleased with the Intel 4460, working on it (CAD programs) is perfect, also light gaming. It wasn't a bad choice, had a good enough price/performence ratio.
I committed myself to Be Quiet when I bought CPU cooler and fans for my PC, and I don't regret that a tiny bit. My mITX rig is on the desk, so I definitely wanted to be as quiet as possible (and relatively cheap...). The Shadow Rock is a tad overkill for a i5-4460, considering the 84W vs 130W TDP values. It does it's job very well.
I was in a hard time finding a (cheapo) ITX 1150 MB back then, the prices were striking. All the H81 were out of stock for quite long, so I bought this one. Setting the fan speeds using only BIOS+MSI software is a major pain in the ... . Other than the neutral color scheme, this motherboard is hard to love.
For my rig, probably 8GB would have been fine, but this way I can work flowlessly, while having 654351631514 chrome tabs open. Only other thing worth mentioning is the color, it matches nicely the MSI Gaming GPU.
This SSD was (at the time of purchase) the best/fastest, yet affordable 2,5" SSD, period. Now for a system drive I'd probably choose the 250GB version, but then it was too expensive. I don't mind running games from another drive.
It has a convincing price/performance ratio. This 750 Evo is next to a 850 Evo system drive. Since I have a small home NAS, I could eliminate the hard drives, resulting a more quiet PC. It handles my (small) game library well, plus some work I'm doing on it. I didn't want to spend more (850Evo), because it't wouldn't have made a noticeable difference.
It's pretty powerful, running cool and looks nice. I don't regret going for a lower tier, but more expensive card, instead the other way around. I've bought a 1060, because for casual 1080p gaming it will be enough for a while. I've bought the 3GB version, because when the 1060's juice will begin to run out, I'll have to lower the settings anyway. I've bought MSI, because it has a superb heat transfer, it fits in the case, and I managed to buy it in the price of a G1 Gaming. NVIDIA vs AMD: it's inside an mITX case, so the lower TDP is a plus, but I'll never have a GSync monitor, while Freesync is affordable. I don't/can't play as much though. The only thing that bothered me was the LED. The logo's backlight was terrible, no full color spectrum, even the R B G colors were faded/tinted. The problem was with the MSI Gaming App.
Small, windowed, cheap (in it's category), good ventilation. This was my 5th build, first with a window, but I felt like it's time now. It was the smallest windowed case on the market, therefore perfect for me. All the other (windowed) cases were bigger or way more expensive. Or had some shortcomings, like the Raijintek Metis: 1fan GPU, no airflow. The quality of the case is good(ish), but I don't like the plexi side panel. Now I would only buy a case with tempered glass window, maybe next time. The drive bays are pretty bad, but the overall layout of the case makes up for it.
This power supply is great, after reading the techpowerup review (especially the bang for buck and noise rating sections), I was sold. But still, at some point it was the loudest part in my PC, so eventually I've replaced it's fan.
My mITX rig is on the desk, so I definitely wanted to be as quiet as possible (and relatively cheap...). At one point my PSU (Cooler Master G550M) was the noisiest component, so this Noiseblocker fan replaced the PSU's original fan (with a 3pin->2pin adapter) and I am really satisfied with the overall outcome. The max. airflow is less than before, but apparently it doesn't matter, the fan is never ramping up (although it's first summer is yet to come). The fan on it's starting voltage is basically inaudible from ~50cm.
My mITX rig is on the desk, so I definitely wanted to be as quiet as possible (and relatively cheap...). So I've bought 3 PureWings2 PWM case fans: 1x140 and 2x80mm (in really good price here in Europe, compared to the PCP price). All 3 fans and the CPU cooler are running from the CPU PWM header with an Arctic PST cable, configured with speedfan to work according to the GPU temps. I'm absolutely satisfied with them, highly recommended.