Description

My new 8700k ITX Dual AIO Build! Video of the RGB strips in action can be found here https://gfycat.com/SpeedyNewEyra

It took a lot of trial and error to get here.

This was a huge change from my previous Full ATX Tower builds. This started out as a simple re-case project. I am purchasing a new standing desk and wanted to be able to sit my PC on the table top. My old Phantom 820 Full Tower weighing in at 65 pounds was not an option. I just needed the new case and motherboard to migrate.

Well, the used z270 ITX board I picked up originally was DOA and I couldn't find a reasonable priced replacement. I figured if I am going to pay full price for a new motherboard, then I may as well just do a full upgrade at the same time. Any excuse right?! Parts are below and I am happy to answer any questions.

Thanks for checking it out!

Case - Phanteks Evolv Shift

I loved this case ever sense I saw it last year. I knew I had to build in it one day. I thought that would be further down the road but here we are. I love the case as I bought it for the looks and size factor. I knew thermals would be less then optimal but they really aren't that bad especially with a little experimenting. I love the dual window design and the ability to make the back side look just as appealing as the front by turning the GPU. Awesome case!

CPU - Intel Core i7 8700k

Great CPU so far and a nice upgrade from my i5 6600k. Definitely beats out the 8600k I had for a very short period of time before I got the 8700k on sale. Handles everything I can throw at it as expected. Should last for many years to come!

CPU Cooler – Deepcool Captain 120 EX RGB

This is such an awesome looking slim rad AIO. Bought it for the looks and it keeps my 8700k cool on stock settings. I haven’t had a chance/need to try any OC, but I will get around to it and post my results. So far I can’t ask for much more. Idle temps are 30c and gaming temps hover around 50c-55c and never break 60c.

Motherboard - MSI z370i Pro Carbon

Awesome motherboard with some great features. Mystic Light could really use some help though. That app is the only complaint I have about this board. It works, but it is buggy and really hates to save your settings correctly. It does turn off the red motherboard status indicator lights so that is a HUGE plus for me. I selected this board because the new Asus Strix ITX only uses a 3 pin addressable LED header. Knowing my cooler would need a 4 pin LED plug, I searched and found a few options. The MSI board won me over because of the black carbon fiber aesthetic. It looks great in my case and the OC potential is pretty good for an ITX. I had a 8600k for a week before I picked up the 8700k. I used my open air test bench to see what kind of OC potential the motherboard had with the 8600k. I was able to get 5.0Ghz on 1.29 Vcore pretty easily. That was without fine tuning any settings! Very happy overall!

Memory - G.Skill Trident Z RGB

RGB RAM to go with my new RGB kit. XMP clocks it to 3000MHz with no issues. Lighting looks really good and there are a ton of options.

GPU - Nvidia GTX 1080 Founder's Edition with EVGA Hybrid kit

The only component that I carried over from my previous build. Picked it up last year from a buddy right before the price hike and found the EVGA kit BNIB on Ebay. Current GPU prices held me back on upgrading this. It does everything I could ask of it and more so there was no need to upgrade anyway. I wasn't able to get the GPU flipped when I first built in this case. I tried again after tearing it down and re-doing some things and was finally able to get it to fit facing outwards. It was no easy task and you can see how tight that Riser cable is. Along with the PCI-E Power cable right up against the PSU. Card does great in this case and it runs a little warmer with the Slim 120mm fan vs a normal size. Stock temps are 30c at idle and 71c while gaming. Which is totally fine, but I love to tinker and work on things. So I am actually working on some under-volting profiles now to help with this. I am still testing but my best profile so far runs 1700MHz at 812mV. This drops Furmark test from 73c to 69c top out temps. I've also toyed with the idea of swapping the radiators as well so the push/pull fans on the GPU loop. I originally planned for an OC 8600k and not a stock 8700k.

Power Supply - Corsair SF 600w SFX

This power supply is great. I have no idea when it runs or stops because it is silent. Idle air temps coming out the vent are 32c and I have never seen it go above 48c under load. Cables were a little stiff but I expected that. It would've been nice of Corsair to include the premium cable set instead for free or cheaper then $40 but its Corsair we are talking about. The price is expensive unfortunately but some things are worth it. Never cheap out on your PSU.

Storage

Adata M.2 drive holds my OS and runs fast. Stock heat sink is a HOT BLANKET. I would recommend just not using it or picking up a cheap kit like I did off Amazon. Temps with stock heat sink were 50c idle and 75c+ under load. New heat sink temps were 30c idle and 50-53c under load. Turning the GPU made it hotter though because of the Riser cable being so close. It idles at 37c and hits 58c under load. Still much better than before. Picked up the Sandisk on /r/hardwareswap for a great price! Drive is fast and I am so happy to have an SSD game drive now. Much better then my old 1tb 2.5 HHD.

Fan Controller - Corsair Commander Pro

The heart of my fan and lighting setup. I have no need for a 3.5 inch drive so the Commander Pro was a perfect fit in its place. My motherboard only has 2 Fan Headers. I have a total of 7 Fans/pumps running off the Commander. My GPU Hybrid kit pump is loud running at full speed so I run an adapter cable for it. This allows me to control the speed via voltage. I heard about how bad Mystic Light is, so I also grabbed 4 Corsair lighting strips to run throughout the case and 3 temperature sensors. The sensors monitor the motherboard area, the rad area and the air coming from the PSU underneath. Expensive but does its job well.

Monitor Dell S2417DG G-Sync

This is one of my favorite purchases for this build. I bought this last year when I picked up the GTX 1080. I have never had good monitors and I always went cheap. After seeing my friend play at 1440p 144Hz, I knew I needed it in my life. Picture is pretty good and price was great. It does have a little color banding but not as bad as some I've seen and it is unnoticeable in games. Settings make a huge difference.

UPS CyberPower GX1325U

I am a firm believer that everyone needs a good UPS. I picked this up on sale and it does its job. I bought one for my HTPC/NAS/Network as well. It is so nice to not lose internet or my PC when the power flickers which occurs somewhat frequently here. Gives you enough time to finish up your round or work and shut everything down.

Comments

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Looks like a absolute monster! Should had done a GTX 1080ti

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Thank you! The GPU was actually from my prior build and the only component that ended up being carried over.

I purchased it before the huge GPU price spike last year for $400 and picked up the EVGA Hybrid Shroud BNIB for $70. I plan to eventually upgrade it once things hopefully settle down. It's got all the performance I need for now and I can't justify spending the premium.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

What are you going to upgrade to a GTX 1080ti?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

I will eventually upgrade my GPU. Not sure if I would do a 1080Ti or not. Really depends where prices end up and what/when the next gen looks like. I am in no rush since my 1080 does everything I need with no issue.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Do you have a gtx 1060 or 1070 laying around?

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

The graphics card is a EVGA Hybrid gtx 1080. Or did you use EVGA's water cooling kit for the GPU?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

The GPU is a GTX 1080 Founder's Edition with the EVGA Hybrid Kit. Picked them up last year before the pricing spike.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

That is what I thought

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Pretty sure you just made the perfect under 2500 complete build, with peripherals and everything. Great job for sure my man.

+1

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you so much! I was surprised when I finally saw the overall total. I was expecting more TBH. Having the GPU already def helped in that aspect.

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Damn. Beautiful looking build. Great job

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you :D

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Looks like a beast i love it oh and your parts list the gpu is a msi not a evga just it case u did not know but what a pc AMAZING job

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for pointing that out! I just searched for Founder's Edition. Didn't even notice the MSI. It is actually the Nvidia FE with an EVGA Hybrid Kit I bought afterwards. Much cooler then the blower.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice build, good 1080 price too, did you have it before or get it at a good price?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

I actually had that in my 6600k build from last year. I was able to snag it a couple weeks before the prices took off. The card itself is a Founder's Edition that I got for $400. I picked up the EVGA Hybrid Kit on Ebay BNIB for $70 shortly after I got the card.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

nice one, I got my 1070 for like 300 right before the boom too

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

At the time I was worried if it was going to be worth it or if I should just wait for prices to drop more. I am so glad I went ahead and grabbed it when I did. It wasn't even a month before prices were like $150+

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

yeah same I was looking at them and settled on my gigabyte one but I almost said screw it and kept saving for the MSI one which was like 80 more but I didn't an legit next week prices jumped like 80 bucks and I just kinda was like, well damn, glad I didn't wait lol

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

60hz display with 1080? Oh well....

Btw I'm that reddit user who asked about the dual AIOs. I was able to fit the two rads on, but unable to install the side panel on the graphics card side because the CLC was too thick (it was around 3 slots)

  • 18 months ago
  • 3 points

It's 1440p... a 1080 paired with that seems very reasonable.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

It is paired with a Dell 24in 1440p 144hz G-Sync as my main screen! The 60hz display is just my secondary monitor. I only use it when moving files or benchmarking. Got it at a great price and its actually a great screen for what I need!

What cooler did you end up going with for it?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey. It was the arctic one. Thick AF

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Really awesome build, love that case! what about cable routing/tiding, was it a nightmare?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you :) I haven't been able to stop staring since I fired her up!

I'd be a liar if I said it was easy haha. It was pretty difficult and there was a lot of do-overs even with my careful planning. A lot of things just don't work unless you do them in a certain order. Custom cables would definitely make things easier and cleaner, though they are not necessary.

When I feel like it, I probably order a 24pin power, SATA and PCI-E custom cables just to make things cleaner and add a finishing touch. The PCI-E Power was the worst cable. I only needed like 2 inches of cable and had to hide the rest.

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

Sure it was a relief when you saw it posted, :). I really love this for a build to my wife but I still doubt I'm brave enough to deal with all the cable/rads/fans management.

  • 18 months ago
  • 2 points

It is difficult but can be done! I recommend a fan controller of some kind. Even if it is a PWM HUB with SATA Power. That was my original plan but I needed to be able to control my GPU Pump via voltage to keep it quiet.

It just keeps things cleaner and hides the fan cables. It also allows you to run the extensions and splitter directly to the fans. I won't have to undo a bunch of wiring just to switch a fan.

It is a very rewarding build. As long as you enjoy a challenge, you will enjoy the struggle and triumph as I did :D

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Nice build!!Where did you use the small 40mm Noctua fan? Is it loud? And does it make a difference in thermals?

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

You can see the 40mm in the picture of the Motherboard I/O area at the top. It is in the top left in the picture. I have it blowing fresh air on my M.2 SSD. I added it after I flipped the GPU and found out how tight the cable sits against the heatsink. It is actually pretty quiet even at the full 5000RPM. I have it running at 4000RPM and you don't even know its there. It does actually drop my M.2 temps by ~3 - 5c. I'm not sure whether that is worth it to some people but I had the fan sitting around from an old project so I'm glad I could put it to use and have it be effective!

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

That's great! Thank you! I'm considering using one of these in a SFX build where I have very little room but I need to move some air. This helps a lot, again nice build!

  • 17 months ago
  • 1 point

What screws did you use to mount that slim fan to the radiator? I'm looking to do the same thing but I just need the right length screws for it. If you cut them down, could you tell me the length of the screws right now? Thanks in advance!

  • 17 months ago
  • 2 points

I just picked them up by size at the hardware store. Most rads are the standard 6-32 screw thread so I assume yours will be too. The length is 3/4inch or 20mm depending how your store sells them. The slim fan is 15mm thick.

  • 17 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you!

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

I'm looking at doing a dual AIO CPU and GPU build in this case. Is it possible to run a normal thickness fan on the gpu rad or must you run a slim fan? I assume that slim fan greatly effects thermals.

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes you can! The reason for the slim fan was to run a push/pull fan on the bottom intake rad. Temperatures really weren't any better so I went back to a single push fan on each rad. The bottom intake fan must be underneath the rad and the side intake fan will fit with no issues.

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

Also, this case greatly benefits from the new Noctua Sterrox Fans

They are expensive but worth every penny IMO. You can run them at a much higher RPM and they are still quieter then any other fans I tested. They move some serious air. I wrapped them in black carbon fiber vinyl wrap and you cant even see the brown.

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

Did you experiment with intake/exhaust options?

I couldn't quite make it out from your build, but I presume your CPU and and GPU aio's are configured as pull (intake) and your top fan is exhaust?

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

You are correct about the current setup. The temps aren't horrible but they could be better.

I actually plan on swapping the setup in the next couple of weeks. I am going to add a couple of hard drives as well. I will be switching both front fans to intake and exhausting out the bottom. I also want to add an 80mm noctua fan up top for exhaust as well. Based on what i have read this setup makes more sense and improves temps.

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

Interesting... I'm just finishing adding my AIO RTX2080ti to my build... I had to swap out my H80i for a thinner AIO so I picked the Thermaltake Water 3.0 120, but CPU is running much watermark than before... Under 3dmark load test it getting high 70's.

Both my AIO's are set to intake at the bottom with top front set to exhaust...

Where will you mount the 80mm fan?

  • 7 months ago
  • 2 points

I found a few post talking about the original fan design and how it seemed flawed. Which, it is. The exhaust at the top doesn't have enough space to force all the air out so you end up with re-circulation. There is so much intake at the bottom but no clear escape except for convection through the top.

Intaking through a small gap is more effective then pushing air out of it. Switching the sides to intake should still allow more then enough clean air. Exhausting out the clean cut top and bottom should be more effective as a result as well. I will put the 80mm fan up top in the "bottom" corner by the motherboard IO sound ports. I will put the 60mm back on the other side by the GPU to help keep air from getting hot and stagnant. I'm hoping these changes help with the heat saturation. Temps are always fine at first but the longer it sits the hotter they climb. My temp probe readings all point to the problem being hot air stuck with nowhere to go.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I also cut 2 small pieces of 1x lumber and spray painted them black. I put little feet on the bottom and turned them into a base for the case legs. This allows the case to sit up higher. This will help with exhausting out of the bottom so that I do not create another point of re-circulation. I also cut a square out of the plastic vented shroud at the bottom where my fan mounts. There is absolutely no obstruction except for the air filter.

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

Verrrrrrry interesting. Please let me know how it goes, ideally reply to this post so I get an email :)

I hit a huge road block with my dual aio config, the new CPU aio (thermaltake water 3.0) is busted, the pump is only running at half the listed speed, so ~1500rpm. So the CPU is getting to 80+c and thats with an open case and no overclock! I need to return the CPU AIO and i'll come back to test.

I get what you mean about intake vs exhaust though. I wonder if it would be possible to use positive pressure and have everythign as intake and maybe as you said a small fan at the top to exhaust?

Also I wanna know how you go about mounting that fan at the top near the IO.

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

I will definitely let you know! It will probably be a month or 2 down the road though. I plan on trying all intake first before switching my bottom fan as well. I am curious to see if that would be better as well!

The fan at the top will be mounted with the silicone screws that come with the fan. I push them through the case grill and they hold perfectly! I moved my current 60mm to the other side in this configuration already. 80mm would be a nice improvement though.

In response to your other comment, temps running timespy peak at 80c currently. The only way I can really push 90c+ temps on my CPU is with synthetic benchmarks like Intel Burn Test or Aida 64. This is with no OC.

  • 7 months ago
  • 1 point

Actually if you don't mind me asking what temps are you getting when you stress the CPU? I noticed since O replaced the H80i with a thinner 27mm rad and single fan , my CPU i7 8700k was getting to 90 degrees on timespy extreme benchmark.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Do you think a thicker radiator like the H80i V2 in place of the bottom raditor could fit? Even taking some part of the front radiator (GPU) I think would get better CPU temps (Even a OC), and keep the GPU temp acceptable.

Sorry for my english. And congratulations for the build!

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

I have seen people use the H80 but I do not know for sure how the fit is with a rad on the front. I know it would be a super tight fit and the tubes from the front rad could interfere.

I am actually going to make a couple of changes in the next month or 2 with my fan setup. I will change the bottom rad fan to exhaust and put an 80mm exhaust fan in the top in addition to the 60mm there. I am hoping that if I can exhaust more heat out then the case wont be so temperature soaked.

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

Thinking about building in this case and have a couple questions. I know this post is over a year old, but here it go!

1 - Do you have any idea what the maximum GPU thickness allowable is? I have a GTX 1080 Gigabyte that I installed the NZXT Kraken G12 AIO bracket on to liquid cool. I'm getting close to 2 inches in total thickness with that on.

If it's too thick, I could machine off the NZXT bracket face if needed.

2 - Dual AIO configuration - I see in the manual that for dual AIOs it says the maximum radiator thickness is 27mm.

Is this true only if using standard thickness 120 fans? Or would I need a slim radiator AND slim fans?

Thanks!

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

Hello!

I know that Phanteks states it can accept any dual slot GPU for certain. I have seen some slightly thicker ones used in builds though as well. I am not sure on the exact measurement though. I could measure mine when I get home but mine is a simple dual slot thickness.

27mm is pretty much the maximum, especially for the front intake mount. You can use normal fans for this. I have seen people put a thicker rad on the bottom and use 1 fan underneath the chassis. Then you would def need a slim fan and rad on the front. It really just depends on your combo of parts.