Description

Done some recent upgrades lately. Went with a full custom water loop for the first time. GPU temps are insanely good but i wasn't able to get the CPU temps i really wanted until i did the naked ivy kit. I feel like the heat spreader on the CPU was causing some issues. After removing that, CPU temps are much better with much less difference in temp between the cores.

The headset + modmic combo is by far one of my favorite things. the sennheiser hd598's are extremely comfortable and the mic is very convenient with great quality.

When the 1080ti comes out, i think i might switch to hardline tubing but we'll see. Other than that, i probably don't do much to this build for a while unless i can get another 980ti on the super cheap. But i doubt i would ever do SLI to myself again.

Some things i would have done differently in hindsight is to go with a custom pcb 980ti that can benefit more from the lower temps and run at higher voltages than what is capable with bios mods on reference pcb 980ti's. This particular card has some trouble when i try and get it close to 1500MHz and isn't stable even with voltage at max.

As far as all the monitors go, 3 of them are just peripherals while i switch between the 40" 4k and the dell 27" 1440p 144Hz depending on the game. the 40" 4K is used mainly for games that i use my xbox360 controller with. Right now that's been Need for Speed and Final Fantaxy X HD. the other gaming monitor is the asus 1080p 144hz (which will be replaced with the 1440p 144hz dell tomorrow). Games i'm playing on that one are Garry's Mod, Rust, and Overwatch for delicious PvP action.

With all the monitors and windows open i've been maxing out my 16GB, and since all my ram slots were filled, it was time to upgrade. Went with 32GB of corsair 2400MHz variety. So far so good. PC seems to boot up just a smidge faster as well which is nice. But damn is Rust a ridiculous resource hog.

Lastly, i built my own custom fan controller with an arduino. Its got 3 temp sensors, and 3 fan outputs on it as well as an output to a 20x4 character LCD. 3 temp sensors for water temp, ambient temp, and inside case temp. the 3 fan outputs are all 5 venturi fans that are on the radiators on one output, the two 140mm noctuas on the second, and the last 120mm noctua for the third. Haven't gotten too clever with the fan speeds yet but i'll figure something out.

Update 1/23/2017: Arduino fan controller ended up not being all that great. I believe it also might have had something to do with my DDC PWM pump starting to act up, but it could just be coincidence. For a couple weeks the pump had intermittent issues with starting up, which would require me to turn off/on the PC power and/or waiting a bit before trying to turn on again. So i am sending it back and replacing it with the D5 pump instead. Also the anti-foam pad that comes with the EK DDC pump literally disintegrated so i will not be using the one that comes with my D5. No idea why it would disintegrate as its fairly new and only used the EK Excoolant with distilled water. Oh well. Hopefully the D5 will be much more stout and quieter. Should have it swapped out shortly.

Update 1/27/2017: EK D5 is in. WAY quieter than the DDC pump. Wish i would have done this pump in the first place as the price difference is pretty minimal. The DDC pump issues have also seem to go away so i think i might keep it for some near future wife pc upgrades.. One thing to note that when using these pumps with the Fractal Design Define S case is that the DDC pump has pre-drilled mounting holes in the floor of the case specifically for mounting this pump. The D5 pump does not have any specific mounting locations on this case. I temporarily secured the pump to the case using only 2 of the 4 screws to the side of the case. Going to get the 120mm fan pump mount in the near future for a more secure mount and to avoid drilling into the case. Also might get 2 more fans for push/pull on the intake if clearance allows as well. Its difficult to get positive case pressure with so much restriction on the intake side due to the filter+radiator so the push+pull should help with that.

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Comments

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

What voltage max are you speaking about? The default BIOS doesn't allow for more than a small offset, but you can load a custom BIOS to boost voltage higher. Have you tried that?

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

yeah i had custom bios for a while but i would get random core clock frequency spikes while the voltage wasn't boosted and the card would crash. this was very occasional but very annoying so i put the original bios back on it. i'll play with it again sometime and get it nice and overclocked again.

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

That is the most unique fluid color I have ever seen in a custom loop before.

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

LOL the tubing is thick wall. its the ek red stuff for coolant. color doesn't show through well. will be doing things differently next time i do a waterloop and go hardline as well.

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey how's the heaphones treating yah

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

amazingly. most comfortable headphones i've ever owned or used. It is worth noting they are open back and you can hear everything around you almost as if you aren't even wearing headphones. i prefer this because for some reason i have trouble talking when i can't hear my own voice. Also worth noting is that i have then hooked directly up to the 3.5mm headphone jack on the motherboard and it powers them just fine. Although i'm sure a discrete headphone amplifier and DAC wouldn't hurt.

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  • 44 months ago
  • 2 points

i've had the 4790k for a while. upgrade to 6700k isn't worth it to me.

  • 44 months ago
  • 1 point

my guess is he already had mobo/ram/cpu from ages ago

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  • 44 months ago
  • 2 points

Actually, there is a very slight difference between the 6700k vs the 2790k

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  • 42 months ago
  • 1 point

yeah i don't really need usb type c which is the only other benefit i see. if intel does a 10 core chip that isn't an enthusiast chip next go round i might pick one of those up.