Description

I hadn't built a PC from scratch in over a decade, and I was getting the itch... What started out as a super budget build soon became a mid-range build, filled with superfluous RGB LEDs.

Parts on sale were purchased over 3 months, prior to the Ryzen 3000 release. Total cost was just under $1100 CAD (taxes in).

Design: I really wanted to build an m-ATX PC with LEDs and a glass panel... probably fulfilling the dreams of my teenage self.

Challenges: The Meshify C Mini had great reviews, looked nice, and hit most of my requirements. However, I haven't had the greatest experience with it. A couple clips on the front panel were broken (replaced by FD), the tempered glass exploded in my hands (replaced by FD), and sometimes the reset button can be activated by just touching the top of the front panel.

I really liked the Sapphire Nitro+ line with their RGB LEDs, but it's quite big for an m-ATX case. Airflow is quite poor feeding the video card (psu shroud + low clearance) caused temps to rise and fans to ramp up excessively. Custom fan curves have helped control this.

The ASRock Motherboard seemed like the best bang for buck. NVME SSD support is hit or miss, and the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro was not supported, and I ended up getting a WD Black.

RGB LEDs are TERRIBLE- Definitely do some research before buying your LED parts. The variations of 4 PIN RGB, 3 PIN ARGB, custom 5 or 6 pin RGB accessories, RAM and CPU cooler RGBs, will drive you nuts in trying to get parts compatible with your motherboard (luckily the ASRock motherboard supported both 4 and 3 pin). Controlling these LEDs also become a nightmare when multiple softwares are required to control different parts. YUCK!

In the end, it was fun building it and learning about all the new stuff since my last PC build. The computer is complete overkill for me, but I probably should have waited until the Ryzen 3000 series and built the computer for a bit less.

Comments

  • 2 months ago
  • 2 points

Great looking build, looks very clean! Curious though, how does the glass "explode in your hand"? I've built two fractal rigs with the glass panels.

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

I was peeling the plastic film off of the glass and it just exploded. I want to say shattered, but judging by the debris radius and the tiny pieces, I have to call it exploded.

It's crazy the amount of glass shards it produced, and all I got were a few tiny cuts during the whole process (explode+cleanup).

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

This PC actually looks clean! Just wanna ask how many frames did you get ? (at fortnite and other games..) The RGB leds looks clean as well, can you tell me from where to buy them and which ones did you buy. Thanks!

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

Sorry, I don't play Fortnite. I game at 1080p, so most games get 60+ fps on high settings. Both Anthem and Division 2 rarely drop below 50-55 fps on high settings.

Not included in the parts list:

Cheap 3 pin ARGB fans- they look really nice lit up, but don't move a lot of air and are not quiet. The controller that comes with it is awesome though (connects both 3 pin ARGB and 4 pin pwm in one controller). https://www.amazon.ca/EZDIY-FAB-Addressable-Cooling-Motherboard-Compatible/dp/B07N39Y8PS/

3 pin ARGB diffused light strip - cheap, fast shipping, but individual LEDs still show through. https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/urJ8Z6o

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

Is this glass tinted? Most of the builds I see using this case have tinted glass but this looks so clear! Clean build! Your post sold me on this case, I was about to grab the darkflash DLM 21 which looks very similar but the front isn't mesh and I'm worried about heat issues.

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

The tempered glass is tinted. My pics from 1-6 are without the glass, while 7-9 are with it on. Tempered glass in general are very clear compared to the acrylic, but are also very reflective.

I actually think the tint is nice because when the system is off, it's dark so that you can't really see what's inside. When powered on, the LEDs aren't blindingly bright and the bit of darkness can mask some of the imperfections inside (e.g. cables not misaligned, ugly power cables), bringing out the LEDs = pretty. If not using LEDs, probably not the best case to go with.

In regards to the DML 21, that swinging glass door panel can be handy if you need to open and close the panel often (it's not the work of unscrewing the 4 screws to get the panel off, but rather the fingerprints that get everywhere). The DLM 21 also come in white (meshify c mini only comes in black). In terms of heat, the c mini can support 280 or 360mm radiators in the front which is nice. Also nice to have an air filter in the front, although removing it can give better airflow.

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi, please tell me if your temps are kept in check and if you're interested in overclocking ? Will the board be stable with a 3600 chip at stock clocks ?

  • 2 months ago
  • 1 point

I haven't done any overclocking on my 2700X as I don't really see a need for it. I'm more concerned about the heat and sound, and it that regards, with a -0.05V vcore offset, I'm getting a load temp under 78°C without all my fans maxing out (aka really loud).

With the decent vrm/vrm heatsink on the motherboard and the lower TDP of the 3600, I think it's safe to assume it should run fine at stock.

  • 17 hours ago
  • 1 point

What RGB fans are these? I really enjoy the ring.