Description

Hello everyone.
(English is not my native language so sorry if I'm unclear sometimes)

I wanted to build a mini ITX build for a while after having only big and not easily movable tower cases. I'm really happy right now because I don't need a ton of HDD or SLI or anything "extra".

On my first try, my cpu cooler was the CoolerMaster Geminii M4 (aircooling). I wasn't satisfied with it because the temps were too high. It had two advantages : 1) it fit in the case (it has a height of 59mm) and 2) it was really silent, I couldn't hear it.

I won't describe every parts but I'd like to comment a few things that caused me trouble during building the computer :

  • The Silverstone SG13B-Q is great but can be a bit difficult to work with, simply because you don't have much space. In combination with the Z97i-Plus, attaching the front audio pins was a real pain because it's right in front of the I/O shield and it is very close to the wifi antennas internal cables.

  • The Z97i-Plus is a great card but I had 2 very annoying problems : => For storage, i used a Samsung EVO 850 in a M.2 format. The ssd has to be screwed at the back of the motherboard. What Asus doesn't say in its manual, is that you have to remove the already placed mounting standoff if you're using a 80mm long M2 SSD. Indeed, the standoff is orignally placed for 60mm M.2 SSD. I used pliers to (gently) remove it and put it on the right screw hole.

=> The motherboard comes with a mpcie wifi/bluetooth module, which is great. Hower connecting the wifi antennas to the card is really difficult. I succeeded in the end but just by chance

=> The Corsair H75 is a nice kit. I bought it used for 50 euros so I went with that instead of other more expensive kit. I'm happy with it right now. I'm using both fans in push/pull. The installation is pretty easy but the backplate felt a little loose. The cable are not very flexible but I managed. And believe me, if I can, anyone can ! I find this the fans to be silent in a PWM configuration. A lot of people changed their fans for expensive Noctua ones. I don't think i t's necessary for me.

Be careful : if you choose aircooling, your rad+fan is limited to a height of 61mm in this case. The Geminii M4 I originally used is only 59mm so it fits. And if you choose watercooling, the thickness of the rad+fans has to be inferior or equal to 90mm.

=> I finally bought a graphic card and I went with a full-sized one, the MSI GAMING 4G ! I originally wanted to go with a mini-itx model (Asus/Gigabyte) or one with a short PCB (Zotac). But after reading a lot of reviews and forums, it seems that these cards can be very noisy. The MSI is quiet in idle, its fans don't run until it gets to 60°C. Be careful : The MSI GAMING 4G that you can buy in the US seems to be longer than the one I bought in France. Mine is 269mm long (10.60 inch), anything longer than than WON'T FIT. By the way, the official maximum length given by Silverstone is 10.5 inch.

=> Space is very limited in this case so don't chose a PSU that is too big. I use the little space between the psu and the front of the case to put most cables. Mine is 140mm long. I hesitated with the SFX-L from Silverstone but didn't go with it because I read on a forum that people are having noise problem with it. Besides, it was out of stock everywhere in France. The CS650M is semi-modular but it was not too difficult to work with.

Edit 1 : With the first version of my build, I had a overheating problem. It was partly due to the poor cpu cooler performance but it was also a software issue. Since I have a Samsung SSD, I installed Samsung Magician. I realized a few days ago that it changed the power configuration of my computer in such a way that the CPu was always running at 100%, always at 3900mhz ! I solved this by going in Windows' power management and decreasing CPU minimal frequency from 100% to 5%. My CPU temperatures are now a bit more cooler. I also enabled Speedstep in my motherboard's bios.

Edit 2 : I swapped the GeminII M4 t for a Corsair H75 watercooling kit and finally added a graphic card. With all that installed, it becomes very complicated to work inside the case.

I'll add photos once I decide to open the case again : I need to properly connect the front audio pins and...try to fix bent pins for the front USB 3.0 ports. For my defense, it's really difficult to see what you're doing when the case is full :-)

Comments

  • 57 months ago
  • 3 points

One suggestion for an AIO cooler: Go with one that has flexible tubes like a cooler master seidon 120m for example. It's going to be a pain in the butt to mount thicker tubed AIO's trust me.

  • 57 months ago
  • 2 points

Thanks, I'll look into it. I'm not in a rush to open the case again though !

  • 57 months ago
  • 2 points

Definitely recommend this. That fan has no room to move the air.

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

Priddy? Thats my last name.....

  • 57 months ago
  • 2 points

Also my last name.

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

The nice thing about the tubes as well on the Seidon is that they're stiff enough so they won't pinch due to being bent too far. Corsair's are known for having that problem. The included fan though, I'm not real fond of it as I had to replace mine once it starting making a ticking noise....

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

wow i have no idea how you fit that cpu cooler in there o-o plus one for that! anyways it should be a great gaming mini pc when it gets its own gpu. anyways amazing build!

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

I've been waiting for this case to release in the U.S. for a while. Thanks for the write up

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

That cooler isnt getting enough air because of the psu above it

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

By chance, can that PSU be rotated inside the case so the fan points downward towards the cooler? PSU's usually suck air in from the case and out the backs so it may help with temperatures.

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

Idk how that wiuld work cause they would be drawing from the same air then.

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

if you have the heatsink's fan on the cpu blow air away from the cpu and towards the psu, they should work together then.

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

That would draw heat from the cooler to the psu wouldn't it?

  • 57 months ago
  • 1 point

Yes it will, but the psu would vent it out right away. It shouldn't be much of a jump in temperature on the psu; a non issue unless peaked for power draw. It would, however, make a decent difference on the cpu.

  • 56 months ago
  • 1 point

What temp readings were you getting with the air cooler/what are you getting now that you've swapped it out?

  • 56 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi,

I think on idle I was at 60°C with aircooling, now i'm at about 40°C with watercooling (idle) and 60°C (gaming - witcher 3)