Description

This is not a new build. I'm only re-uploading this build because my niece somehow deleted my old account "AlamedShrew". I later downsized this build twice.

Second Build/Baymax 2.0 - https://pcpartpicker.com/b/cNQZxr

Third Build/Baymax 3.0 - https://pcpartpicker.com/b/WxcYcf

Original Description: My first PC build was back in late 1997 using the AMD K6 (100-300MHz) with massive 500MB hard drive running the latest and greatest Windows '95...it sucked. Constant crashes, blue screen of death, buggy apps, tons of restarts, my case was large, heavy and but was used primarily for playing Starcraft.

I switched over to Macintosh with the 2010 iMac because of superior form factor, quality materials, small footprint, no more restarts, little to no buggy nonsense and excellent support for photo and video editing. When my iMac bit the dust in mid-2016 I looked to getting back into gaming. This a few months after the release of Overwatch. My intention was to use Boot Camp run Windows and play Overwatch and some Steam games.

Since Steve Jobs has passed away Apple has chosen to make incremental upgrades to their hardware with a focus on form factor and overall improvements in efficiency, not improvements in raw performance. Now I would have still bought another iMac hardware like a 7500rpm HDD standard in a 2012 iMac to a 5400rpm SSD/HDD in a 2016 iMac is a slap in the face to loyal Apple customers.

So I revisited Windows 10 and found that all the nightmarish problems I had with Windows '95, Windows '98, and Windows XP have been resolved and the OS is just as stable and bug free as Mac OSX El Capitan.

I was also surprised how much the PC building/modding market has matured. There are a LOT of cases available, very well designed and very good looking. My goal was to try to retain the aesthetic beauty of my old iMac coupled with the brute force of high end hardware.

The OS and basic apps are on the M.2 The 1TB SSD holds the photos, videos and music. The 500GB SSD is for gaming The 2TB HDD is the internal backup drive.

Part Reviews

Case

Pros:

  • Case beautifully shows off internal components.

  • Design allows for A++ airflow.

  • Custom water cooling possible but will be a bit challenging.

  • Fits two AIO's easily.

  • Swivel side door has magnets on top and bottom that closes nice and sturdy. Plus allows instant easy access inside the case for whatever.

  • An excellent use of space for a super compact mid tower.

Cons: - Front grille cannot be removed unless you push in the four locking tabs holding it onto the chassis. I need to open both side panels just to get the front grille off to clean the intake dust filter. Not a big deal but quite a hassle.

  • Space for wires between PSU and drive cage is less than most ITX cases, keep that in mind. Again, not a big deal to take some extra time for cable management but still very annoying.

  • Cutout in the PSU shroud for the GPU's cables is underneath the middle section so cables look odd leaving the GPU into the PSU shroud at an angle.

Other Thoughts: - This case has a few quirks like but is still designed very well and the build quality is very good.

Comments

  • 30 months ago
  • 2 points

Very nice! I also have that case in white! .. very cool and clean build.

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you! The white case is also quite dope.

  • 30 months ago
  • 2 points

To remove the Front grille, simply pull from the bottom out and up. Its in the manual. You do not have to open both side panels

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for the advice. This is actually an older build. I'm presently using Baymax 3.0 using most of the guts from this build.

  • 30 months ago
  • 2 points

Again.. The legend case, Carbide 400c. I press like when i see one

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

Great minds think alike, lol

  • 29 months ago
  • 2 points

Very inspired by this! Got a 400c right now and just wondering how did you paint the corsair logo on the psu shroud?

  • 29 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you!

The Corsair logo is is stamped so it sits a couple millimeters deep into the shroud. So filled in the logo with white acrylic using a toothpick and a very fine brush used to paint tiny figurines. I used the toothpick to carefully add tiny drops of acrylic into the Corsair logo until it was full. The fine brush was used to smooth, flatten and even out the acrylic without getting any outside the Corsair logo. Took me about 30 minutes to fill it in, and I let it set to dry and harden overnight.

  • 29 months ago
  • 2 points

Just started doing it and realized how hard it is lol. Do you have any advice on fixing the little drops that got outside the logo? I might just sand it all and paint the whole thing white.

  • 29 months ago
  • 1 point

If it goes outside the logo dry it up immediately. Do it very slowly and deliberately so you don't smear it over another part of the shroud.

If the there's acrylic that has already dried outside the Corsair logo, use rubbing alcohol or an ammonia solution to rub it off without ruining the plastic on the shroud. I prefer ammonia but the fumes are more dangerous for your lungs and can burn the liquid in your eyes so please wear a mask, latex gloves and eye protection if you plan to use ammonia. Just use latex gloves if you use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol).

I advise taking a toothpick and dipping it into the acrylic, then let it drip off the toothpick one tiny drop at a time. It's time consuming but it gets the job done right the first time.

If you plan to paint it all white, you can always go back and fill in the Corsair logo with black acrylic, but the recess in the logo will not be as deep if you decide to paint it. Good luck!

  • 29 months ago
  • 2 points

Yeha I got some isopropyl alcohol and they don't look half bad now. Thanks for the advice, loving this contrast look that I just had to try it out myself.

  • 29 months ago
  • 1 point

Awesome. If you need any help leave a comment and I'll do what I can to help.

  • 29 months ago
  • 2 points

What temp do you get? on load and idle, gpu and cpu?

BTW looks awesome!

  • 29 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you! This was my first build (1.0) and I'm currently using 3.0 build. I updated temps under the parts list just now.

  • 28 months ago
  • 2 points

Love the clean build and the attention to the cables. The white SATA cables are the bees knees.

  • 28 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you!! I've changed this build twice since then, lol

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

"Balalalalalala" fistbumps

Great build! How's your K65? I literally bought a K55 a week ago!

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

Well I've already sold it. I'm currently on my Baymax 3.0 build.

But it's an absolutely fantastic mechanical keyboard. I'm currently using the Logitech Pro mechanical keyboard because the K65 cable takes a beating in a backpack, whereas the Logitech Pro cable is detachable. If it wasn't for the times I need travel, I wouldn't have sold the K65z

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

may i ask how your 400c's side panel is clear?? mine is kinda tinted

  • 30 months ago
  • 1 point

I back when I still had the 400C it did have a slight tint. The tint doesn't show up in my pictures.

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you for being like the only person showing me the back/cable management of this case.

  • 26 months ago
  • 1 point

Very welcome.