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Update: Oddities with 6yo x79 rig. Voltages.

Istolla
  • 14 months ago

G'eve Forum

It would seem I surpassed the time in which I could continue to add onto my previous troubleshooting thread. I'm aware that links to such are prohibited so I'll do my best to summarize and keep this tight.. I will however have to copy/paste my specs as most are old enough I can't make a part list, there is a few minor updates for clarifications and one major update the GPU and a minor update/testing tool a spare PSU

Part List

  • Dell/AlienWare Aurora R4 ALX (2012) yes I know "omg AW." It was a 50/50 with my parents, back when I was still able to work for a birthday after my laptop literally had some of it's capacitors pop..

  • X79 Platform Dell Custom Board Alienware 07JNH0 if I did the link thing right that has a breakdown of specs but I'll list what CPU-Z says: chipset as "intel Sandy bridge-E Rev-07" & Southbridge as "Intel x79 Rev 06" Bios is the latest A11 as of 2014, there have been no updates to it since.

  • Has a Daughter Board that handles all IO/Lighting/Temp-Sensors/Fans/Power-button, Runs off of a Molex, couldn't find a board number but from my loose understanding it's required to make her run at all.
  • At one point the onboard Realtek networking started being really screwy so I replaced it with a Intel Gigabit CT pci-e x4 adaptor card.

  • CPU: i7-3930k 6 core 12 thread. Reports @3.2GHz but typically functions between 3.2 to 3.7GHz the 3.7 spikes seem to be single/dual core only, will maintain a 3.499GHz under load, synthetic or game across all 6 cores + threads. I have not overclocked this is it's own boost stuff.

  • Cooler: Corsair H80i AIO Cooler with Push/Pull Noctua Fans added in after 1 year of ownership replacing the stock AIO. (This AIO is now 4 or 5 years old, I've replaced the paste on it once.. maybe I don't really remember, either way temps are still well under 70c under heavy use and below 40c at idle typically.)

  • Memory: 16GB (4X4GB sticks) Quad Channel 1600Mhz DDR3 RAM, CPU-Z Reports them as Hyundai Electronics PC3-12800 (800Mhz) with CL11,11,28,39. 1.50V says they can go as low as CL8,8,8,22,30 but only at 609Mhz so I'm assuming based on em reporting as 1600Mhz that they are set to the CL11 setting listed as JEDEC #6

  • PSU: Dell Precision T5500 875Watt Power Supply 0J556T Hipro, has 80+Silver stamp. These are "server" esk PSUs in that they pull air through them from front and out the back instead of top/bottom then out the back, it has a massive single cable harness modular plug.

  • OS: currently Windows 10 Pro 1803, was a "upgrade" from Win 7 Pro back when they were offering that for free. (I waited till like the last moment of the offer and the transition was smooth, no errors or bugs besides Intel Rapid Storage Enterprise deciding to just stop but I don't have raid set up anyway.. however my BIOS lists my drives set for RAID rather than AHCI not sure how to change that or if I need to.)

  • BIOS: Though previously mentioned, it is ver A11 from 2014, no updates from Dell have been provided, the BIOS is UEFI though visually still looks like a Legacy BIOS as it was just before graphical UEFI ones were a thing I believe. It is also very stripped, there are lots of things "hidden" or just do not show up vs images of other BIOSs of X79 boards I've seen.

  • Storage: NO RAID. 1x 500GB SSHD OS/Boot. 2x 1TB 7200RPM Seagate data drives. 1x 3TB WD Green 5200RMP? Backup-Drive. Only Boot and 1 Data drive run at 6GB/s Sata III. The 2nd Data drive and the Backup are on 3GB/s Sata II due to what the board has.

  • Monitors: 3 Identical Samsung 21inch SyncMaster 215tw 1680 by 1050. 60Hz (though they tend to show as 59) I only game on the center monitor typically in borderless windowed mode, or a 1600 by 900 window to allow multi tasking.

  • Monitor connections from GPU to Monitors: Left: Direct DVI-D Dual Link cable from GPU. Center: From GPU to Display - Displayport 1.2 adapter to HDMI → HDMI cable into HDMI switch input → HDMI to DVI-D Dual Link cable into Monitor from Switch out. (This gives full 60Hz operation & is so I can run my PS4 off center monitor as well). Right: HDMI to DVI-D Dual Link cable directly from HDMI port on GPU.

  • USB Perpetuals: AW Supplied Keyboard, Logitech G600 MMO Mouse, Logitech G13 Keypad, Playstation Silver USB headset adaptor (used with Polk Audio Striker-Pro P1 headset). Actisys IR Wireless Interface Diabetic pump data uploader.

Major-updated component (This was part of a "care package" a friend from discord sent me along with a Corsair TX850w Non Modular)

  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC Gaming, ACX 3.0 8GB DDR5(Micron), Dual Fan open heat sink. GPU-Z reports: GP104 Rev A1. Bios 86.04.50.00.72 (this is latest update from EVGA's site in re cooling concerns on this batch of cards. Their free "thermal pad kit" is being sent to me next week, I'd love suggestions on a thermal paste please one with a proper applicator/syringe.) Clocks: Core Base 1595Mhz, Boost: 1785MHz, Memory in GPU-Z is 2002MHz. Single 8 pin PCI-E power connector. It is also running at full PCIe x16 3.0.

  • Item of note: Though my friend sent me a Corsair TX850w, I can not at this time fit it into my current case, such would require a full lower case tear down (and dell being dell thats a nightmare) & cable modding of the power cables for the drives. Further I have ruled out the Dell PSU's voltages being the issue so I'm not concerned by continuing to use what is already in there. Will explain further in the actual report.

Summary of issue I was having a odd glitch where my system would lock up, all input would stop, screens would go black yet their lighting arrays would stay "on" (it was creepy), monitors would fully go off, system would come back up like nothing happened, no errors or anything. This glitch has not presented itself again at all since mid/late December till now, before changing out the GPU for the 1070.

Two friends suspect it was my GTX 680, another my Motherboard and another the PSU. During talking within a discord for a logistics game I'm part of, they had me run a bunch of tests, one of which was checking the voltages.

I already had OCCT, HWMonitor and HWinfo64 installed so I used all three yet all three reported the same.

  • +3V was within margen 3.264V min to 3.312V high typically.

  • +5V raised flags showing lows of 3.742V to high as 3.826V (Google research suggests people freakout over PSU +5V going under 4.5V or so.)

  • +12V also raised flags: it pumps out anywhere between min of 14.950V to as high as 16.192V

The update As I mentioned in the part list, I was sent a "care package" by a kind soul from that discord group consisting of the EVGA 1070 SC ACX 3.0 & a Non Modular Corsair TX850w PSU. both are in excellent condition though I will note:

The GPU is part of the group that had "concerning temperatures" on the power and memory, I've already done the BIOS update as suggested by EVGA's page on the mater and out of an abundance of caution have requested their free Thermal Pad Mod Kit.

  • I would appreciate suggestions on a good thermal paste as the kit, from video's I've seen, comes with stuff in basically a ketchup packet and I'd prefer something with a proper applicator/syringe due to having tremors that make my hands a bit shaky at times.

Looking up the PSU the newer ones of the similar branding have 80+ ratings & stamps, this one is old enough it doesn't.

  • I had it tested at my local shop who used Thermaltakes PSU tester on it and it checked out fully within the zone across the board.

Testing the PSU & Mobo Because of the Dell-ness of the case I could not just plug everything into the Corsair PSU so instead I opted a rather Frankenstein dual PSU test allowing me to Isolate the Motherboard with the Corsair PSU while powering the rest of the system with the Dell PSU (Including the Daughter Board). Tests were carried out with both my GTX 680 & the new-to-me GTX 1070 one at a time.

Voltages did not improve at all regardless of configuration.. (Corsair powering just the Mobo, or Mobo & GPU.)

  • +5V Rail still sagged as low as 3.6 and a high of 3.9
  • +12V Rail still was drawing at minimum 14.8V to highs of 16.2V

Conclusion & Sought advice This sadly leaves me to believe based on googling the troubleshooting logic for Voltages is that if it's not the PSUs then it is the Motherboard.. would I be correct in this flow of logic?

If this is the case & with how expensive x79 LGA2011 Sandy/Ivy-Bridge-E boards still are (and they are all "used".) Would it be best to look at building a new system? If so, should I look into replacing the AIO I currently have with it's age? it's about 4 or 5 years old now but seems to be operating within spec.

I was also considering NZXT's GPU hybrid cooler bracket, considering the temperature concerns of the card.. but as it's not a iCX card it also does not show the VRM/Memory Temperatures.. so I only have GPU chip temp showing up in EVGA Precision.. not upgrading the card gives me a lot more leeway in budget but I wonder if doing such a hybrid cooler would be unnecessary even if it gave peace of mind..

  • Note: I am from BC Canada so prices are what they are here.. which can be ouch.. for example the card I was sent would have cost me 600 CAD or so brand new after tax and shipping likely at the current lowest listed price from the part picker link I provided at the time of posting: Memory Express 589.99.

Again I kindly also request pointers to some good thermal paste for the GPU..

I appreciate your time, even if all you did was read this. Warm regards. ~Istolla

Comments

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

First, that was a wild ride from start to finish. Second, from what I read it sounds like the PSU. Those voltages can be dangerous. You should try testing everything from the Corsair PSU (Is this one known good?). I the Dell PSU is having issues with voltages then it is possible that having it provide any amount of power to anything in the PC will produce the skewed voltages. It is possible that it is the motherboard as well, although that is less likely than the PSU. Those are the two most common problems with a situation like this. Try testing with only the Corsair PSU and get back to me and we can go from there.

As far as an upgrade it will depend on what you use the PC for. You might be best served with getting another x79 board instead of a whole new system, but you might be better served with a new system, I don't know.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for the reply Rin, Glad you enjoyed the read lol, it has been rather a journey..

I'm quite concerned about the voltages as you said and as everything I've read says such is quite "dangerous." Yet I have no idea how long it's been operating at these voltages and I typically kept her on 24/7 with reboot/shutdowns every two weeks..

I figured isolating the MOBO like that also would at least have given me some usable data as I'd figured the voltage readings which show up in HWmonitor as part of the motherboard.. where isolated to it.. perhaps this was naive or simply just lacking in understanding on my end..

Such was part of why I did the dual PSU test, to isolate just the Mobo.. the second part, while getting power to everything.. the bluray player, the multi card reader, the AIO pump power, even the "daughter board" shouldn't be to hard.. it was primarily because I can't get at the HDDs easily

They are in quick release bays with the connectors at the back, the back can't be accessed from removing the back panel (which is hell to do in the first place and I'm glad I read up on it before trying it myself)

This said, I've come up with around about solution, take out the drives, turn them around and let them sit in their slots, the only catch is not knowing which Sata ports the drives are plugged into.. I know my OS Drive and Game/Data Drive 1 are on the 2, Sata 3 ports.. and those two are technically all I'd probably need to have hooked up to run the test.. just need to figure out which is in which port. The other two drives are on Sata 2 ports.. of which there are a few...

I will endeavor to try and sort such out within the weekend.. I'd have tried tonight already if I wasn't having bit of a physically weak day.

~ Now what I use my system for.. primarily a lot of multi tasking, gaming, attempts at coding and aspirations of 3D modeling though I've little to show for such at current.. and when say "multitasking" it's enough that almost half my 16GB of Ram is nearly being used at any given time.. I've looked into uping how much I have but if I do a new system I'll need DDR4, not DDR3 and the costs for either are still quite a sting.

Of the games I play currently it's primarily FFXIV online, Warframe, Elite Dangerous, FortressCraft Evolved (which has been quite well designed for multi core machines), Space Engineers, Sationeers.. While I don't personally consider it a "game" per say, I dabble in SecondLife (yes that's still a thing) as well, tis where I do said "attempts at coding" now and then.

Of my 3D aspirations.. I tend to stumble with getting the hang of UIs and tools.. Blender being one I've tried to bash my head against a number of times, being free.. I've also tried trials of Maya, 3DMax and zBrush.. My hope with such is sci-fi and high-fantasy like creations from vehicles to starships, android chassis, clothing and accessories.. and maybe doing character modeling commissions of friend or strangers Characters from various worlds someday.. lofty ideas that at least currently feel quite distant but ones I continue to pursue when my health allows.

Edit: I'll add that I do have a interest in streaming the modeling and perhaps certain gaming but my internet upload is the preventing factor there, currently, family has been looking into upgrading/changing ISPs so that might become a option "someday™" if they can ever agree on a course of action.

Warm Regards. ~Istolla.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Update January 6th. Hi Rin I'm replying directly to your post again so I'm not sure where the system will place it

As per my reply on the 4th or 5th. I've tried booting my system entirely off of the Corsair TX850w, the known good PSU I had sent to me and I got tested at a local shop before using it..

Sadly I've seen no encouraging change in the Voltages.. if anything both have gone up slightly. Both HWMonitor & HWiNFO64 report

  • +5v reports lows of 3.868 with highs of 3.952

  • +12v Reports lows of 15.752 and Highs of 16.368

I've got everything except two HDDs plugged in (lacking 2 more free SATA cables) and powered all off the Corsair only, the Dell PSU is completely unplugged.

What do you think?

Hope things are well on your end. Warm Regards.

~Istolla

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Update January 6th 10pm PST.

A friend suggested I try powering the psu from a outlet on a different breaker than the on my room is on. Luckily one such outlet set is right out my door and shares the breaker with with washroom & 7ft deep closet.

Sadly there was no change and the volts were 3.8 to 3.9 & 16.1 to 16.3..

It was worth a shot and since I tried it I figured I also include it here as to what has been done.

Warm regards.

~Istolla

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Sorry for the late reply, I have been recovering from bronchitis and my semester just started.

Trying a different outlet on a different circuit was a good idea. I had forgotten about that. It does appear that there is something wrong with your motherboard. You can find a replacement board on eBay for around $150 USD.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Alienware-Aurora-R4-ALX-System-Motherboard-7JNH0-07JNH0/283327882873?epid=1801609427&hash=item41f7a86679:g:WrwAAOSwUsxbKy0I:sc:USPSPriority!47903!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0

That will probably be the easiest solution. You can also go with building a whole new PC, which you mentioned you are a heavy multitasker will probably be the more ideal option since we can salvage most of the build, but toss in a standard x79 board or just bump you up to x99 or something similar.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Eeek, no worries Rin, I hope that bronchitis clears up and that they don't slam you to hard off the bat with your semester.

looking at the board you linked and adjusting for being Canadian on the west cost.. on my phone it shows me it would be 194.10 Cad for the board, 18.92 Cad for the shipping and 32.19 CAD for Importation fees.. a total of 245.21.

It certainly would be the cheaper option and aso likely the easier one considering drivers and what not..

I've not done a system migration in a very very long time. I also hear moving windows license has become a bit of a hassle or some'n. I've got Win 10 Pro and currently running 1803 still.. with all the crazy 1809 had going on.. I should probably double check the update window for that.. I rather like to hold out a bit, let them get as much of the bugs as possible out before I update.. I've got my system set to Semi-annual the old "business branch" which delays "feature" updates by 3 to 5 months and I added a extra 30 days to that..

That said I'll share a bit of my situation.. I'm a gal in BC Canada as previously mentioned. I'm on disability for ptsd, no not from military service.. got attacked.. anyway my means are a month to month single spendage check. I /am/ however able to save an set side some of that income for goals, I'd already been saving towards a new desk so I luckily had a head start (cuz a working pc is more of a priority lol)

I'd started putting aside the moment the odd sys lock up glitch started (which even odder hasn't re-appeared since late November.) But lead to finding out about these voltages and how out of spec and "dangerous" they are.

I've currently got 1,400 CAD set aside, before even touching my visa which I could feasibly use to put my budget closer to 1,700 maybe 1,800. Come Jan 23rd I'll have another 100 for sure I can set towards these upgrades.

A friend of mine had also offered to help in buying a "new" board or chip (likely whichever is cheaper) I'll have to double check with them.. but I'd rather do such once having an actual plan and something I can show them.
Further with the hardware donation I had received.. I'm not necessarily needing a new PSU or GPU anymore.

Even if the peace of mind of a iCX card's extra thermal sensors might be nice.. EVGA is sending me out their thermal mod kit for the 1070 SC ACX 3.0 I have, I've already done the BIOS update they suggested.. part of me is interested in NZXT's GPU hybrid cooler bracket but I would need a new case to do that with. The only reason being my temperature sensitivity, I've lost much older equipment in the past (though they were laptops) but it admittedly left quite the mark and has made me rather "paranoid" for lack of something less "crazy" sounding..

Part of why being, for me my hardware are my primary means of keeping in touch with my support networks and friends online. My ptsd makes doing such rl quite difficult, though I am striving towards what I can manage on that front with help from my doctors.

I'm not sure what the best "plan" would be.. what matters most to me is the stability, longevity and reliability of whatever I get.. along with the affordability of maintenance and replacement parts should something go wrong..

this rig I have now is 6 or 7 years old and has served me very well in my endeavors.. is times I feel a little bad that perhaps I've not really used her to the fullest capacity, no overclock, no background STEM or NASA exoplanet data crunching or Folding.. but it's been my life line..

Being Canadian with a current (as per google Jan 7th 8:20PM PST) 1 CAD = 75 Cents USD exchange (it had been 73 last I saw) makes this a bit more complex in terms of finding that "performance/cost" balance.. I don't on the whole know what I "need" vs getting caught up in the shininess of what is current/new.

The hardware I was sent by that gentleman from the gaming discord I'm in, the GPU if I'd had to buy myself would have cost close to 600 CAD after taxes, likely not including shipping, brand new.. and my local Craigslist isn't much better at the moment.

CPU Brand wise I've always had Intel & they are what I know. Yet they still have a "brand tax."

If I was to look at more current stuff, the Ryzen lineup is quite compelling from a wallet perspective for high cores, multi tasking, streaming & gaming as well as "rendering" which depending on the 3D program is gonna lean towards cpu heavy or gpu heavy with some starting to do decently mixed loads.

I hear others say AMD have said the AM4 socket is here to stay for a good longer while, the next iteration of chips on 7nm the Zen 2 (not to be confused with the Zen+ refresh) is said to be around the corner and on AM4.. course we have no details yet, nor if that means a board refresh as well chip wise.

But again, I 100% don't know what the "best" option is.. with how my resources are if I'm having to "go in deep" I'd want to be looking at something that would last me another 5 to 7 years.. if doing "anything to keep me up and running a while longer so i can save even more." then maybe a shy of a 250CAD board isn't a horrible idea..

I apologize for how long this got and for how probably indecisive it sounds.. I honestly just don't know enough and trying to figure it all out has been quite overwhelming of late. When I got this current rig I knew everything down to the chipset layouts and how they interacted with the CPU and what not.. real typical asperger-ish ocd deep dive.. but I've not had that energy or capacity at all in the past 6 months and feel very lost.

Thank you again for your time, it really is appreciated.

~Istolla

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

The length is no problem! It is better than:

User: "My PC isn't working!" Me: "What are the symptoms of it?" U:"It just doesn't work!" M: slams head into table

Your $1400 CAD is about $1000 USD. A nice-new system would be very doable with that budget, but it would be most of it. From what I can tell the motherboard in your current system seems to be Mini-ATX, which I have never heard of. It might have been one of the layouts like BTX that tried to be a thing, but it just didn't happen. If you don't want to build a whole new system then you could get a replacement board and slot it in. You could also get a standard ATX board and a new standard case.

(This should be in CAD since I think I went to ebay.ca)

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Intel-Desktop-Board-DX79SR-Motherboard-Core-i7-Intel-X79-Express-LGA2011/143078618065?hash=item21502673d1:g:wwUAAOSw~T9b7uLR:rk:6:pf:0

and then grab a case

https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Carbide-Mid-Tower-Gaming-Window/dp/B079JVTPJK/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1546973139&sr=1-5&keywords=pc+case

That would run you about $300 CAD and you will have more DIMM slots to up your RAM to 32 GB since you multitask a lot.

If you want to build a whole new system then something like this would be good.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type Item Price
CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $239.99 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard $179.99 @ Canada Computers
Memory Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory $283.38 @ Amazon Canada
Storage Kingston - A400 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $29.70 @ Vuugo
Case Corsair - Carbide SPEC-04 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case $60.99 @ Powertop
Power Supply Corsair - CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $64.99 @ Amazon Canada
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $859.04
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-08 13:47 EST-0500

It will put you closer to your budget, but you keep the 6c/12t and get a little better performance. (I forgot you already had a PSU when I made this so it is closer to $800 CAD)

https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3930K-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2600/1487vs3955

You also get a newer platform that has official support until 2020 (likely will be past that, but IDK)

You get 32 GB of RAM, an SSD since I don't remember if you had one. You can toss in your other drives into the new system. You can also call Microsoft and let them know and they should be able to help you move your Windows key over to the SSD. You can also slot in your GPU and PSU you already have.

It will be up to and whether you want to build a new PC or if you just want something that will fix your current one. I would say that if you just get the replacement board that PC should run for another few years without issue. If you swap to the other X79 board then you should be good for another 3-4 years at least. The Ryzen build is the ideal solution, but also the most expensive. So it is all up to how much you actually want to spend and how much time you will have to build among anything else you have going on.

Let me know if you have any questions!

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey Rin, thank you for the reassurance, good example too lol, have had quite a fair share of friends giving me that in the past too.. which might be why I over explain perhaps LOL.

As for what's in there right now, you're right that it's a mATX board, when looking it reminds me of a mATX MSI had put out but with Dell branding and what not but I'd not be surprised if Dell has their own board maker or contractor of sorts.

Indecisive as ever I'm rather liking all the options you've provided. I'm on my way today to the island (Vancouver island) but i'll have net and such so I'll review them more deeply once there..

Just wanted to make sure you knew I saw it and very much appreciate your help and also keep this post from auto locking. ♥

Warm Regards.

~Istolla.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

There are still boards out there if you wanna spend money for them, or as an alternative perhaps look at a huanan motherboard at aliexpress. It all depends on how much money your want to spend on an old system that may be stuffed anyway.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you for the reply Treloar,

There are boards certainly, they call come with a premium though typically.. I'm not quite familiar with Huanan brand, the one you linked even says it has a m.2 slot which is surprising a browse shows others with m.2 NVMe slots as well.. was hard to tell if some of them were actually x79 or talking about x99 with their LGA2011V2 or V3 markers.. I don't recall a V2 but V3 was used for X99 if I recall right.. w/e chip succeeded the Sandy/Ivy-Bridge-E chips..

Either way you are very right.. it is down to a matter of where would it be best to put my limited resources.. in salvaging what I have or building something new.. it's honestly a bit hard to answer that question in some ways.

Besides my ram usage issues, I've had no other "complaints" of what I've got performance wise.. and the only other one I had, the Dell OEM GTX 680 starting to show it's age, has been solved by the acquisition of the EVGA GTX 1070 SC..

I could definitely do with a better case.. and such would have to happen if I got a new Mobo as this case is mATX.. and most X79's still out in the wild are ATX or EATX.. which I wouldn't mind honestly, it would be nice to have something with better air flow, would also let me slap a larger sized AIO onto the CPU and maybe even hybrid one onto the GPU perhaps.

As for my use of the system, see the second half of my reply to Rin above. Warm Regards ~Istolla

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Be careful 2011-v3 is not the same as 2011 or so I've been led to believe

  • 13 months ago
  • 2 points

Ye, they are different from my understanding. V3 was used on X99 boards and I believe even had some pin changes.. Got'a love these companies and their naming ideas eh? /small-river-of-sarcasm/.

~Istolla

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

I would recommend testing with a quality power supply tester. These programs have been known to be inaccurate sometimes.

On my own testbench that uses an older HX1000, I have an EVGA x299 Dark motherboard that gets strange voltage reading with HWMonitor, HWInfo64, etc. Even after testing with the newer HX1200 the voltage readings are all still off. When I updated the BIOS on the x299 Dark board, it made the voltage readings worse. Upon doing a google search on this problem, it seems to be common.

However the voltage readings with the old HX1000 are all normal with my z77 and x79 boards that I've tested. Then I used a power supply tester and the voltage reading were all normal with the HX1000 and the newer HX1200.

On the x79 setup which I was running until a year ago, One of the G.Skill Ripjaws Z DDR3-2133 RAM modules became unstable after 4.5 years of use. This was causing the system to freeze, crash, and BSOD. I ruled this problem out by running Prime95 Blend until a thread stopped. Then I tested with 2 sticks, while I switched modules until I found a working and stable configuration. DDR3 Ram was very cheap at this time so I bought a new kit.

If you test with Prime95 and a thread stops working, the system crashes, freezes, or there is a BSOD, then there is a problem with either the CPU or RAM. You could also try LinpackXtreme. When I have used a CPU stress test and my CPU wasn't stable, the system would shut off and then restart. However, this will also happen if a power setting in the BIOS isn't set right.

For reseating my GPU coolers, I make sure the thermal pads are looking good and I've been using Gelid GC Extreme since it has a thinner viscosity.

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

Hello Kakarotto, thank you for the reply.

While I haven't had the Dell PSU within the system tested; I did have the Corsair TX850w checked at my local shop who used a Thermaltake PSU tester on it and it was clear across the board.

I've also tested the system 100% powered only by the Corsair TX850w with just my boot & primary Data drives and the board still showed out of range voltages.

Further as I mentioned to Rin in our rather lengthy ongoing thread when I did that test I also tested powering the PSU from a different socket on a different breaker of the house with no change..

Lastly I recently came across rather startling revelation via some old screenshots & tests back from 2013 that show the voltages being exactly the same as they are reporting now which by all research and feedback is "messed up" unless this board was designed for such, it is Dell.. they do wacky ****.. but it could also just mean I've had a "messed up board" this whole time and I've been very very lucky lol.

As for RAM thank you for the suggestion I already did such too which was a "fun" task trying to do without removing my AIO because of how difficult it was to get that radiator on with how the case is designed.. it's got extra plastic at the back which if I had a dremel or a drill I'd widen the holes so the screws would go flush to the metal back plate behind the plastic but I lack both. Either way there was no change.

I've not used Prime95 before, that might be a interesting test, if I can figure it out... though I'm rather wary of "pushing" that luck I mentioned.

As it stands she's been running pretty standard and stable enough that I've been comfortable returning to my 24/7 running with bi-weekly shutdowns which is when I also take a can of compressed air to her lol.

For the Bios it's really stripped down, I don't remember much in terms of power settings in it.

GPU wise I've got the GTX 1070 SC in there now vs my old GTX 680. Thermal paste, I went with Arctic-MX4; not to be confused with Arctic-Silver... two different products from different companies lol.

The application of the thermal pad replacement kit I was sent by EVGA went well, I also took the opportunity to apply fresh paste to my CPU. That said I'm curious as to what a degraded or bad thermal pad might look like as I'm not familiar with such, this was my first time taking apart a GPU and handling thermal pads.

Again thank you for the reply.

Warm Regards.

~Istolla

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