1st Gen Threadripper in my main rig with an air cooler.
The temps haven't been all that bad; 70C mostly, but I did swap an SFF PSU in there and managed the cables so that there isn't anything obstructing airflow to the GPU.
the way in the pics; going under instead of over. I also used ModFlex Cablemod cables instead of my usual Modmesh.
A tiny bit, but re-rerouting the GPU cables minimized it.
It was a tight fit and a pain in the *** to work around after I installed it. The H5 is a bit overkill though; I'm guessing you're not using a -K chip if you're running a B360-I board. You should be well covered with the Cryorig m9i, which is what I'm putting on my friend's I7-6700 in this case.
No, the AS Rock board has been pretty solid; the XMP Profile works for me without issues after upgrading the bios.
Ok, that front panel mod is sick!
Still testing it out, but I haven't encountered any issues. It is why I removed the HDD cage underneath and worked on tying down the PSU cables neatly, so that there's no obstruction. getting an SFX PSU will probably help though.
Inside of the case is black.
There's a 140mm Noctua chromax fan between the heat sinks, that's pulling air from the right and pushing it through the left.
Yes. 2 ML140 in the front 1 ML120 in the back.
No; I really doubt you can set that up in this case; the clearance for the GPU is tight.
Colors of the Filipino flag, chief.
I just didn't want to worry about pump failure down the line; and this is quieter than it was with the AIO. Plus, with the Meshify front panel, this has even better airflow than the Mini-C I was using. The temps at load for this compared to my prior build are about 3-5 degrees cooler.
I'll be testing it soon! The monitor I've got is more of an entry level 1440p monitor with a 60Hz framerate, so we're probably not going to get to test out high framerates.
Not all that bad. Noctua had specific instructions on how to apply it and I followed it as well as I could.
In my experience, adding a second fan isn't going to do all that much (push/pull is kinda overhyped in those regards, but I've done it on a Noctua C14S). I picked it up because it's about as effective as using a non-TR AIO.
One thing I will say is that I'm not a super big fan of Gigabyte at the moment. I tried to use the XMP Profile for the RAM and the system went into a crash loop. I'd be happy to test out and see if there's a difference, as I have 2 of those fans now, but I've been hesitant to try OC'ing since that crash.
Yeah, I'm probably going to regret it some; I did overpay for the Vega 56. It'll give me an excuse later when I upgrade to a Vega 64 w an aftermarket cooler and hand this down to my GF, who is using a 580 currently.
Just 1 white LED strip; A Nanoxia one.
It connects to your PSU for power through a SATA port. You connect the PWM wire from the hub to a PWM header on the mobo to send the signal. It reads from one of the fans you plug into the hub and basically they all will share the same speed.
Yes; the front intake and rear exhaust are on a Silverstone splitter; the radiator fans are powered through the pump connected to the CPU header.
Funmono's shop on Etsy.
It's a sit/stand desk from UpliftDesk.
Hi there, thanks for commenting.
The 7700K chip I use is delidded and overclocked to 4.75. It's a binned chip tested by SiliconLottery.com to safely overclock to 4.9. I don't need it to be too crazy so that's where it is right now.
The cooler is set up right now with 1x140mm Noctua Fan (NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM) and the top currently has the closed moduvent for quieter operation.
The most intensive game I own is probably BF1; I have everything maxed and I'm getting about 120FPS, and during a 30 minute gameplay, my CPU temp was around 68-72C. If I kept the top moduvent open, I probably would've been closer to 65-68C in BF1.
I've tested an H100i v2 with this chip in this case top-mounted and I was getting around 65C under similar circumstances.
It's a good cooler, and would more than suffice for a 6700K chip. The 7700K is just a ***** to cool.
Hope this helps.
Wow! You certainly didn't take the easy way out for your first build, going with an ITX build, but this is way better than my first efforts. The case pretty much limits your options cooling wise; I think the best cooler you can get right now is probably the Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B by Scythe.
But if you're getting the itch to do a 2.0, my suggestion would be to move this build sans the PSU to a more full-sized ITX case like the Nano S or the Phanteks case that would allow you to put an AIO in. Oooor...you could just take out the CPU and the GPU and sub in a locked chip and a 1050TI. It wouldn't push your monitor but it'd be a good PC for a 1080p monitor and casual gaming (a hand me down even). You wouldn't have to worry about CPU temps with a locked chip. And if you use a 1050TI, well, it's even less cables to have to run in the thing. =)
Course, the risk you run doing this is you end up like me with more computers than you need...but hey. YOLO.
Looks good; the only thing I would've done differently is use two 140mm fans in the front, mount the H100i to the top, and put 1 x 120mm in the rear. Why didn't you use an m.2 drive for the boot drive?
Nevermind; good call on the NH-D15S; it fits well. I must've been looking at the NH-D15's table of compatibility.
Right? I think the H5 Universal would work with an ITX board but eh... The D15S would probably fit the Z270i board but eh...then I have to use a fan hub and cabling gets messy. I don't want to futz with this anymore.
I'll take more pictures when I go back in to tidy up the cables with more cablecombs.
The NH-D15S won't work; I did research on that one and it overhangs the first PCIE slot according to Noctua's website. I could use a NH-C14S but I'm kinda meh about a c style cooler in this build. It seems like a lot of the 140mm fan air coolers have clearance issues with this board so I think I'm stuck with it.
I wanted to aircool in the Nano S but I didn't have enough clearance to use the air cooler I wanted and I didn't like the compromises I made for a clean cabling look. I also really wanted a TG panel and a shroud so I just decided to do a rebuild because it wasn't much bigger and mATX boards have a few more headers. I can use my itx board in another build later.
Nice work in that case! It's a tough build.
How much clearance from the GPU do you get? I just tried a Cryorig R1 Universal and it ended up putting pressure on the GPU's backplate.
I play in x1440 and apart from BF1, none of the games I have push it beyond stock levels even with ultra mode. Unfortunately, the MSI Afterburner software is glitchy with BF1 so I have to turn it off when I play.
It's a good performer. The need for "Extreme" OC'd GPUs is a bit silly. I needed a smaller GPU though to fit in my ITX cases.
No, I used a Corsair SFX to ATX bracket, which is available directly from the Corsair website. The Silverstone bracket also works (I used it in another build with the same PSU).
So if I were in your shoes, I'd skip trying to use the EVGA 1070 Hybrid and just go with one of their non-Hybrid cards. One, I've used the 1080 version of that card in my other build, but ended up returning it because the coil whine was loud, high-pitched, and rather irritating. The tubes might make it too difficult to fit in the Air 240 because of the limited top mount space. The other thing too is that while you can plug the EVGA hybrid into the Chassis fan header, you can't exactly add an additional fan to use off that header and control it independently because the pump needs to be powered at 100%. You'd connect your EVGA radiator fan to the pump and the pump to the header and set the header to 100% power, then use the EVGA software to control that fan curve. Plus I don't think it'd help you much cooling wise and a regular 1070 should be alright in the case if you configure how I did it.
There's three headers on the Z270i Asus board I used but the fittings on it for the I/O and other parts meant I could only fit one Corsair ML Pro 120mm on the top there, because the H100i tubes got in the way.
What I ended up doing in the end (and I haven't updated the build yet) was I swapped the RX 480 for an EVGA FTW+ 1060. I installed two Corsair ML 120mms under the GPU as intake so they blow cooler outside air into the card's fans, then I installed 2 Noctua 80mm fans in the rear panel of the case.
I used a Silverstone PWM Fan splitter and connected all the 120mm fans (Radiator and the intake fans are all ML Pro 120mm) to be powered by the PSU and connected the splitter to the CPU Fan header to manage the speeds through BIOS, connected the Corsair H100i pump to the AIO Pump cooler, then connected the 80mm fans by a Y-Splitter and plugged it into the Chassis Fan header.
I control all the fan curves through BIOS this way, because the Corsair Link software is not well supported.
Weird, it definitely didn't feel magnetic. I ended up prying it out and saw it was clipped in, so I rotated it. Seems to look fine now.
Is a clip holding it in place, or does it pop off with force? I tried real briefly to remove it but I went on to do something else and forgot to go back to it.
The RX 480 just sorta fell into my lap; the RX580s in Microcenter were over-priced and not small enough for the 250D I planned to build in originally. I was originally planning on installing her 7870 card and waiting for Vega, but it **** the bed.
Cablemod, custom configured.
No, this is my case; I'm Filipino. The light is actually white; the phone/filter made it look more blue than it really is. I usually set it to orange.
Wait a second....
I grew to be a big fan of Phaneks from HardwareCanuck's reviews. I transferred my original rig from an Lian Li case to an Eclipse 400. Great case, but the top grill made it difficult to get any clearance for a Radiator. My friend used the Evolv ATX TG case for his build and I got to check it out and help with the build first hand. Since then all the other cases I looked at I compared to the case and well, everything had a trade off or compromise. the Evolv pretty much has everything, which is why I went with it.
Ideally, if Phanteks came out with a TG version of their mITX version I'd have gone with that. Phanteks will be releasing a TG version of the original mATX too this month.
You didn't really need to install the 640 display drivers. Are you sure you installed your GPU correctly? That is usually auto-detected at least. You might need to check your BIOS settings to make sure you have it recognizing your GPU.
If your GPU is not detected, then yeah, you're not going to be able to see a picture. Right now, your PC is using your processor's graphics to display.
lol. Google Nexus 6P. Might as well have been my 3DS though.
Not really. When I play shooters like BF1 or Overwatch I turn down the settings anyways for better performance. The pretty effects at ultra look nice, but are ultimately distracting in a more competitive play setting.
Been pretty good. I hit 165 FPS pretty consistently in Overwatch and BF1, even with moderately high settings
I got an i7 because I plan on streaming to twitch as well.
My Boot Drive is Pilot. ;)
Not programmable yet; G.Skill said they'll have software out soon, but they're supposedly going to be Aura Sync enabled once Asus gets their software updated.