The screen does not need a raspberry pi. It's basically just a small HDMI-display.
No complaints, it's a great monitor. I can't keep my fingers off of those curved displays for long though...
11 years since Breaking Bad started, feeling old yet?
Thanks for the input!
Laser or waterjet, both are fine for me. I just found a place which laser cuts brushed and sandblasted stainless steel (316) in 1-3mm thickness, so it might be quite nice for a case side panel, even if rest of the case is aluminum. I'll test it in the near future.
Temps and load only, at least at the moment. The touch part of the screen is broken and the glass panel of the case prevents input anyway.
CAM is a bit annoying yes, but you don't have to have it autorun on startup after you have set up your cooler. The only time I run it is when I want to change the cooler led colors.
Easiest way is to clone the drive. The easiest way to achieve that is to get a hard drive dock which supports both M.2 and your old drive (SATA?). These docks are usually around 30 $/€. Then you just plug your old drive into source slot and the new M.2 drive into target slot and either clone it in the dock itself or use some software, depending on your dock model.
This is usually done when both drives are the same size, but it can also be done from smaller to larger or larger to smaller drive, as long as the used space of the source drive can fit into the target drive.
After the process is complete (only takes few minutes), you should have two drives with identical contents and you can just install the M.2 into your PC and make it boot drive. Then continue like nothing happened.
Ergotron LX dual side-by-side arm might be good for you. It officially supports 2x 27" displays, but I think there is room for even bigger. Another option is 2x single display arms.
Thanks for the comments! The screen is a touch screen, but I didn't install the USB cable so touch doesn't work (and it's behind the glass panel of the case).
Absolutely go for 16GB.
I'm using 8GB right now with only Chrome (5 tabs) and some background processes open.
I have a 298mm video card and Kraken X62 in the S340 Elite and still have about 30mm space between the radiator and GPU. You will be fine.
Here you go :)
(Notice the price versus Amazon)
Almost as easy as putting your socks on. The AIO isn't opened in any way, you just put the sleeve on the pipes and close them with plastic parts in the ends.
Perhaps Antlion ModMic 5? (or 4 if you need even cheaper)
It's a headset mic that attaches to your existing headphones. You can choose between directional and omni-directional input.
Another vote for the NZXT S340 Elite.
Considering you are preparing to spend nearly $1000 for a CPU and $2000-$5000 for GPUs, not to mention other components, I'm guessing you have already researched that GPU rendering is faster in your particular type of rendering and it supports that many simultaneous GPUs. Or even supports GPU rendering at all.
What GPU is best for you depends a bit on what your specific need is. Usually the most important characteristic to look out for in a rendering card is the number of cores. Second, sufficient RAM to fit all the geometry and textures inside. If the frame buffer is not large enough, then some assets will overflow into main system RAM which runs much slower.
You should start looking at Titans. Even the older Titan XP slightly beats the GTX1080Ti, but the Titan V absolutely murders them in VRAY for example.
That being said, such money would buy you some serious rental time/credits on cloud rendering services.
If there are no unusual sounds coming from you PSU, you don't need to change it just yet. The fan might be louder than it used to be, but unless there are whines or squeals that weren't there before, I don't see any reason for replacement just yet.
The HX Series is targeted towards advanced users for use in gaming, overclocking and other demanding environments. It should be a solid PSU. That being said, even unknown brands can have a lifespan of 7-10 years. Some PSUs have warranty of 12 years.
A new PSU won't give you anything new for the money, unless you are seeking something specific like fanless operation. I'd give your Corsair a couple more years of service.
Backup, backup, backup!
I've had HDDs with long warranties, which still broke down 6 months after purchase. New noises are never a good sign.
SSDs are quite excellent in durability and shock resistance (not to mention speed), though nothing lasts forever.
Yes. Most likely it will work fine, but it cannot be guaranteed.
If you're interested in the (a bit technical and boring) explanation why this happens, you can read more in the link below :)
This is what my monitoring shows at the moment: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbth7qvawy46ade/ram.PNG?raw=1
At the time of that screenshot I'm using Windows 10 Pro with only Chrome open (4 tabs) and few background processes. I think that image answers your question :)
I would very very strongly recommend getting a 16GB kit. I reach 18GB usage almost daily with just Chrome and one (somewhat unoptimized) game. 8GB is simply quite low for modern PCs.
Like other comments say, you could upgrade later, but there is always a small risk of unstability or uncompatibility when using sticks outside the same kit, even if the sticks are "identical". This is because no two sticks are truly identical and only sticks in the same kit have been tested by the manufacturer to work together with best possible speed.
I know ram is quite expensive at the moment, but you can pick the cheapest DDR4 for virtually the same performance as faster ones. (though I recommend 2666MHz instead of 2133MHz)
This. Just change the case fans, cover the legs and throw the glass side panel out of the window and you have a white case :)
The biggest "problem" is usually the motherboard, since rarely any unmodded motherboards are white. I think NZXT has motherboards with white covers for this purpose, though.
I have the S340 Elite which is almost identical to S340. The not-perfect airflow is due to dust filters AND a large AIO-cooler radiator installed in the front. I think without the radiator the airflow would be great and with it I don't think it matters since my non-OC CPU and GPU run cool.
Anyway, I love the case. Pics here in PCPP.
My opinion is overclocking your ram is not worth it, especially if you're not overclocking anything else. Just get any cheap DDR4 around 2666MHz. Getting more than 16GB would mean MUCH more though. I peaked at 18GB used memory yesterday using just Chrome and one game.
95C is usually the limit before damage, but many cards have a safety line around 82C, after which the card starts to temporarily slow down to generate less heat (it's called thermal throttling).
Your overclocking software (like Afterburner) should have a temp limit slider so you can choose the maximum temperature before throttling.
Your 70C under stress is good.
All SSD drives are very very reliable, BUT any and all drives should always have backup.
I have used many SSDs from Intel, Samsung and Kingston during the last 9 years and none of them have yet broken. I've heard the new Samsung 970 Pro SSDs are (theoretically) the best, but it should be noted that they are M.2 instead of SATA.
While x4 is faster than x2, it's nothing you are likely to notice. I had my 960 pro in x2 by accident and I didn't notice a thing. Even the calculated speed difference was rather small.
Modern SSDs have ridiculously good lifetimes. For example Samsung 850 Pro theoretically dies after 9100 terabytes of writing.
Most of my SSDs are being used around 5 TB per year, meaning they would (theoretically) last almost 2000 years if only considering that one criteria. During last 9 years I haven't broken a single SSD and even the first one (Intel X-25) is still being used daily in an old PC.
That being said, any and all drives should always be backed up, because anything can happen. I once had an industrial grade HDD with very long warranty, but it broke down after 6 months.
Most likely that memory works with both of those motherboards, BUT I don't see it listed in the QVL (qualified vendors list), meaning it's not 100% guaranteed. QVL is not a full compatibility list though, it's only the list of components that has been tested to work.
If this works, I would still recommend against it for many reasons. I assume all sticks are the same type (DDR3 or DDR4 for example), since different types cannot fit in the same slots.
Even IF you get the same CAS latency, timings and voltage, you still might get unstable behaviour. Memory manufactures even advice against mixing identical memory kits, since "identical" sticks from two kits might be a bit different in real world. Only the sticks sold in the same kit are tested and guaranteed to work together with good performance, and even then only if they are listed in the motherboard's memory QVL (qualified vendors list).
If your latency, voltage etc are a match, you could theoretically use sticks with different speed (like 2133MHz and 2666MHz), but you will absolutely get worse performance and probably some unstability.
Short answer: it's not worth it to mix sticks that much, in my opinion.
If there is X at the end of a Trident Z memory model, it's AMD optimized (for example F4-3200C14Q-32GTZRX). Without it it's for Intel.
That being said, (someone please correct me if I'm wrong), virtually any DDR4 should work with virtually any DDR4-compatible motherboard and you will not notice any speed difference without precise monitoring software.
If you want to be sure just check your motherboard's memory QVL (Qualified Vendors List) and pick a kit that is at least 16GB total. I think there are Trident Z -models in every modern QVL because of their popularity.
Both CPUs are good for your use, but I'd pick the 8700K. The X99 chipset is already 4 years old (though your part list says X299) and you would still pay more for such motherboards. The 6 cores and 12 threads of the 8700K are likely to be enough for anyone except those who do video editing as a full time job.
If you want to save money, pick cheap regular DDR4 instead of RGB models. Same goes for the RGB fans, since they are easy to upgrade later. If you really love RGB, you could change your CPU AIO-cooler from Corsair to NZXT Kraken X62 ;)
One of your part lists has 650W PSU, which should be enough, but I'd go 750W to be sure.
A small concern I have is your display. In video work a quality display is usually important, but 300€/$/£ 4K displays aren't usually such. Last time I checked even high-quality 2560×1440 IPS displays were 600-700€/$/£.
Open your command prompt (Open Windows Start-menu, write cmd and press Enter).
In the command prompt (the black window) write this and press enter: wmic baseboard get product,Manufacturer
It should then give you the Manufacturer and model of your motherboard. We can then help you upgrade the CPU, if possible. If your motherboard and other parts are very old, upgrading might not be reasonable though.
1) OS can be installed from a USB-drive. Cases usually have placeholders for drive bays, which you then remove when you install a drive, so there shouldn't be an empty slot without a drive.
2) Memory speed is one of the least noticeable things when using a PC. I'd say any DDR4 is fine, just get enough of it. 16GB is usually fine, but some workloads might need more.
3) 250GB SSD should be great. If you picked smaller one or wanted to upgrade later, you can easily clone the drive into a new one without having to install everything from scratch.
4) If a case looks good and is cheap, go for it, unless you have specific needs like watercooling. Some cheap cases might have sharp edges, but you should be fine.
5) CPUs are sold in two variations: boxed or tray/bulk. Boxed means there is a cooler in the same box for roughly the same price. Tray or bulk means it's just the CPU and you need to purchase a cooler yourself. The default coolers are usually a bit louder and not as cool, but they are guaranteed to be "enough" if you're not overclocking.
Could you give us examples what you will do with the build, gaming or work?
If you're going to play games, you don't need 8-core CPU, which means you could go Intel CPU (and compatible motherboard) instead. Intel i5 8600K is the same price or cheaper, but it has faster core speed, which is better in games. At multi-core working (more than 6 cores!) your 1700X might be better.
I don't have any experience with your choice of CPU cooler, but anything less than $20 is rarely very good, meaning you could just use the one that comes with the CPU and upgrade later if you are not happy with the thermals or noise.
450W power supply should work, but it's a bit on the lower side. You can usually get better efficiency and ease of mind for future upgrades if you pick a bit higher wattage. 550W and upwards should be great.
Remember to buy RAM too, your list doesn't have any at the moment. Any cheap DDR4 should work, I'd recommend 16GB of at least 2133MHz, but no need to get higher than 2666MHz.
1) Do you really need the optical drive? I know you could only save $20 there but I haven't used mine in 7 years.
2) While Intel coffee lakes for example get somewhat noticeable speed boost when you go from 2133MHz memory to 2666MHz, I don't think there is much difference in your Ryzen platform. You can simply choose the cheapest DDR4 which is at least 2133MHz. Your current pick looks fair price and SHOULD work, but it's not in the motherboard QVL, so if you need to be 100% sure you can check there for compatibility.
3) If you need lots of storage space and you have a tight budget, you don't have to go SSD (except the OS drive). I very very strongly recommend having a SSD for your OS and primary programs, even if all your other files are on HDDs. You can get small SSDs very cheaply.
4) Your case is probably ok for the price, but there might be higher quality available for almost the same cost. You could check out NZXT S340 for example.  There is no slot for optical drive in S340, by the way.
5) Your pick for the CPU cooler is good for the price, but I'm not sure it's huge leap from the default cooler of your 2700X (which is fairly good I hear). Maybe you could use the default cooler for a while and then upgrade it later to a top-tier cooler if your temperatures or noise are not good enough.
The limit of safe temperature for your CPU is around 95C and 70-80C is fine under stress. 35C is great if your room temperature is around 25C, since even powerful watercoolers might run around 30-35C while idle or light usage.
The same goes for your GPU. Anything below 90C is ok and most cards are safe capped around 82C by default. That means your 63C at load is good. If you don't limit your fps, you will probably get 99% load and higher temperatures, and it's still normal. Your idle temp of 42C is also great, since 45-50C is typical for your card.
YES there is, despite all these "no" answers.
Option #1: If you're an entrepreneur or startup, you can easily qualify for the free Microsoft Bizspark program. I got dozens of licenses from there, 100% free, including Win10 Pro, Windows Server 2016 and Office 2016 Pro Plus. Bizspark itself doesn't cost anything either.
Option #2: If you're an university student, it is quite possible your school has a agreement with Microsoft to allow students to get free Windows & Office licenses. Some years ago it was called MSDNAA, not sure what it is today.
Option #3: Almost same as #2 but though your employer. It's not uncommon to buy Windows or Office licences for 10-20 euros. Your employer probably buys large amounts of licences, so Microsoft extends the lower prices for employees as well.
ASRock AB350M Pro4 AM4 mATX is a motherboard that should have USB-C and fits your case and CPU. I don't have personal experience with this board so please double check before buying.
After you have added all the components to your part list, the recommended PSU wattage is shown in the top-right corner of the part list. It is recommended to buy higher capacity since more wattage means ease of mind, upgradeability and better efficiency. Usually 650-850W is enough for most builds and even lower might be just fine.
I recommend a PSU with modular cables, meaning you can only install the ones your components need. This means less clutter and more space inside your case. Your case can fit max 230mm PSU, so almost anything is good.
Another thing to consider in PSU is efficiency, which is marked with "80+ bronze" for example. Bronze is good, silver/gold/platinum are better and titanium is the best. Unless you're running your PC 24/7 with high power consumption and expensive electric bills, it doesn't matter much which you choose.
I have used many Seasonic PSUs in my builds, but other brands should be fine as well. Seasonic has the Prime-models if you want "the best" and "Fanless" models if you want silent. Both are in the higher price range though. Cheaper PSUs are also likely to serve you longer than the lifetime of your new build.
If I understood correctly, you have 4-pin headers in your motherboard but your fan only has holes for 3 pins.
As you noticed, they are compatible. The 4th pin is pulse width modulation (PWM), which is used to control the speed of the fan by sending pulses to the fan. In 3-pin connections the speed is controlled by variable voltage.
In most cases it doesn't matter if you use 3 or 4 pins to control the fan speed (or read the rpm), but if your fan has led lights, they might dim or brighten depending on the fan speed if you're using the 3-pin variant. This is because lower rpm also means lower voltage, meaning lower power entering the fan.
Yes, it looks beautiful and has great components, but I don't quite understand the featured picks on this site. There are probably 500 builds in b/w NZXT case with Kraken AIO and some leds behind the table (mine included), but what makes them stick out?
Memory vendors bin memory kits at their rated density. If an end-user combines memory kits to make up a higher density, the memory timings that each kit is programmed with are no longer valid or guaranteed to work. In fact, memory vendors themselves advise users not to combine kits.
That being said, I'm guessing identical sticks are likely to work, but it's not 100% certain.
More specific reasons for this are explained here, but it gets very technical. Personally I would go a kit of 2x 16GB or a kit of 4x 8GB.
And then the PSU. I agree with SuperSarah, 750W or 850W would be great because bigger surplus gives you ease of mind and usually higher efficiency. Some models run passively when the load is small enough. Since you have excellent components, I'm guessing you don't want the cheapest PSU either, so I could recommend Seasonic Prime Ultra for example.
While any vector software probably works, Inkscape or Illustrator is recommended because Ponoko uses templates based on the material sizes they have available.
Sculpteo for example is more flexible on the files, colors and maximum dimensions.
It was the first vector graphic for me too, but it's quite easy. Remember to double-check stroke thickness and color and there shouldn't be any problems. Don't try too small details unless it's attached to something bigger, or they will end up missing or burned away by the laser.
I used Ponoko to create my Blues Brothers build
In my photos you can see the following pieces from Ponoko:
I was very happy with the whole process and materials, but shipping/taxes/customs are not ideal for european customers (more than 50% of total price). I used the free Inkscape program to create the vector files.
At least the laser cutting service Ponoko has two-layered acrylic, some of which are somewhat translucent after etching.
You can of course take two separate acrylic sheets and just glue them together. For example black layer cut to shape on top and thin white or clear under it. If you want the surface to be quite smooth instead of two layers, you can cut two "inversed" parts from different colors and put them together like a puzzle. (remember the laser cuts away a bit of the material, so some edge tweaking is required if you want tight fit)
I would say there are two or three options to do this.
1) two-layered acrylic plate that has those lines laser etched, so that they let light through them. Lights need to be behind the plate. Success depends a lot on the material used.
2) clear acrylic plate that has lines etched and lights are in the border of the plate, so that they shoot light through the plate.
3) plate has lines made with perhaps reflective tape and lights are in front of the plate.