It fits, but there is very little room left.
I think the only way the 8350 could really come out on top for most people would be if you were going to overclock that baby pretty darn high. They tend to overclock quite easily up to 5ghz and stay relatively cool even with cheap 3rd party coolers. From what I've read, the overclocking of Haswell CPU's has been kind of... meh, fine. Even when if you were to do this, I think the best you should hope for would be to bring it up to par with the gaming benchmarks of the 4670k, but retain an advantage with some editing work.
Some type of power supply is 100% necessary. It's what converts the power from the outlet on the wall and gives it to your computer.
And optical drive (a DVD, blu-ray, or "disc" drive) is not completely necessary for a working computer, but it is needed to install lots of software, especially older programs. If you choose not to purchase an optical drive, make sure you have a plan on how to install your operating system, like a USB drive for example.
I don't know what your options are for PC Partpicker in Australia, but I assure you that optical drives and power supplies can be found at most chain electronic stores.
Generally speaking, OF COURSE! But with the microcenter deal I got and my programs utilizing all of my CPU's threads, the only Intel CPU's that were clearly better along with a Z77 board would have been $90-125 more.
(And it's almost exclusively music editing/composition work, so the GPU is really all about the gaming, so I was leaning even more towards the price advantage in this case. Sorry if that wasn't clear.)
Yes. The Hyper 212 Evo comes with plenty of thermal paste for multiple applications.
Of course! There is plenty of room in that case for any card if you remove the optional drive bay wall.
This is stupid.
And all of those components would have been just fine with one of the AM3+ processors or an i5. If he got the APU at Microcenter like it says, he also had the option to get an FX-6300 with a 970 mobo along with either a GTX 660 or an HD 7850 for the same price as his APU, mobo, and GPU. The only difference beyond clearly superior performance is a front USB 3.0 port. And moving away from the APU would mean that a downgrade in RAM to 1600 would yield no real noticeable difference, leaving a cool $25-30 to put elsewhere, like a USB 3.0 pass through if needed.
I agree with others that say this rig just isn't good enough for $800 + OS. The APU's are awesome, but right now their only real use is to save money over expensive CPUs and GPUs. The line somewhere around $600-700 is where you start to get more bang for your buck elsewhere.
There is nothing bad or wrong about the build though. It looks like a solid machine. I just would have done something different with that budget.
I also think the case is the first place to cut back on price if it's needed. The Cooler Master HAF 912 and the Rosewill Challenger are very popular $50 mid tower cases.
I also think you should make every effort to get the A10-5800k. Not only is it superior, but it will be able to handle a better GPU for a possible dual graphics upgrade later on.
If you are not going with the A10, you could probably save more cash by getting a motherboard that has the A75 chipset and built in wifi like this one: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-fm2a75iae53
But then again, if you are sticking with the A8, you could probably go even cheaper on the motherboard down to a $60-70 range. I've used the ASRock FM2A75 Pro4-M with an A8 and it's been wonderful. But there is no built in wifi on this on.
Your computer is so fast it's blurry!
I love my SSD, but 64GB is already a little bit of a tight squeeze. The A-Data XPG SX900 series are the fastest drives I know of in this price range. I highly recommend this drive if you're going with 64GB. But I see 3 options if you go for 120GB. The cheapest Samsung 840 Series 120GB drive (840 Series) is going to be great for anyone that's never had an SSD before. They will be happy. But the 128GB A-Data XPG SX900 certainly has excellent speed for the price ($115 now) and the Samsung 840 Pro Series ($130) may be slightly better and comes very highly recommended.
lolz at quad Titan
If you are looking to save some cash, and you aren't going to overclock or buy an aftermarket CPU cooler, consider buying a cheaper motherboard with the H77 chipset instead of the Z77.
But if you do keep the Z77, you can get a $25-60 cooler later and overclock to make the system relevant longer.
And this is the second time he's posted a build here that isn't complete...
As another person stated, it looks like you have the fan on the Hyper 212 Evo blowing in the wrong direction. It should be blowing air from the front of the case across the heatsink toward the other rear fan to exit the case. You should be able to just move the fan from the left side to the right without moving the whole cooler.
With the AMD APU's like the A10, you should only get a graphics card that matches so you can enable dual graphics, which is basically like a crossfire setup. Purchasing a 7770 or 7750 would likely give you a worse performance than if you bought a 6670 because it would be just the GPU working instead of both the APU and the GPU. (I think it's the 6670 that matches the A10, but you should check me on that.)
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/a10-4600m-trinity-piledriver,3202-9.html Here are some FPS benches on Skyrim without an extra graphics card. It's certainly playable on medium settings, but Bioshock might be a little tougher.
Adding a 6670 card for dual graphics would likely boost your frames per second by 60-80%. Without the extra card, you won't be able to play the most demanding stuff like Metro or Crisis, and with it I imagine you'll be able to squeeze out 40-50 FPS on low settings.
It sounds like you may be the kind of person that doesn't need an extra graphics card with the A10, but I suggest you reconsider investing another $20 for 8GB total RAM. That is not only your system memory, but it's effectively your graphics memory as well. And the AMD APU relies heavily on it for gaming.
This one is the ASRock Extreme4 that matches my socket and has the 990FX chipset desired for best functionality with the FX-8350 CPU.
There is nothing particularly wrong with this build, but I have a few suggestions that I think most of the community on this site will agree with.
-If the goal of the build is mostly for gaming, be aware that the i5-3570k is considered as good as if not better than anything else out there for gaming at a far cheaper price. If you won't be doing heavier work loads than the normal home PC, consider downgrading and investing money somewhere else.
-The community will also encourage you to get a motherboard that has a Z77 chipset. Any extremely popular medium budget one is the ASRock Extreme4. But Gigabyte and Asus have excellent reputations when it comes to motherboards. But for bang for your buck in gaming, make sure you get a Z77.
-SSD's are awesome. If you can squeeze one in the budget by downgrading the CPU or that $100 keyboard, consider getting a 60 or 120GB one for your operating system. (Just don't forget to change the default save spots for your libraries.) Many people like the Samsung 840 Pro Series, and I love my Adata XPG SX900.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about. (http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/PMIE) The budget went up about $20, but it's clearly a better system for gaming because of the graphics card. There are versions of the GTX 670 that are cheaper than the one I picked. I kept some of your parts, and I assumed you wanted to keep the color scheme, so I picked the cheapest keyboard that had a blue back light. I hope this helps.
I'm no expert, but without searching I'm 98% sure cementite means "upgrade the monitor before you blow 100 bucks on a keyboard".
I like it. But I can't help but wonder if you could have gotten more bang for your buck with an AMD APU though. I think you could have either just spent less by avoiding a GPU with only slightly lower CPU performance, or spent the same amount on a matching GPU for double the graphics performance. But you are right that the APU's generally run a little hotter, and if heat and longevity are worries, there is nothing particularly wrong with your choices. That's just my 2 cents. Upvote.
The 8350 sucks AND you will render and edit video? The 3570k has a slight edge in gaming, and the 8350 has a slight edge in all other multi-thread work, including video work. It even stays cooler on single threaded stuff because it can switch to a cooler core far more often. If you want the CPU that's the best for gaming, no one will chastise you for taking the 3570k. But if you think the FX-8350 sucks, you have no idea what you are doing.
It is certainly one of them. I don't know about value on price, expansion slots, available ports and whatnot, but it's actual performance is on par with the best AM3+ mobos.
Thanks for the kind words.
Pretty much. I realized I was paying extra for cosmetics I liked. It was a low priority, but I was able to work it out and still be quite satisfied with the specs and price.
The fans are a pack of 4 120mm fans for $9.99. I'd call $2.50 each cheap. They are whisper quiet too, a great deal.
The case is another story. I could have gone with the black version or the HAF 912 and saved some cash. But I like the cosmetics of the case, especially the white. And the only negative in the reviews was cooling if you only used the 3 fans it came with. Downgrading the case was something I considered. But I got some lucky breaks on prices with the HDD, SSD, and PSU. I'm already overkill on the GPU as far as my needs go. The only thing I would have upgraded with the price difference would be the SSD from 64GB to 124GB. I made the choice, and so far I'm happy with it. Maybe down the road I'll wish I had a bigger boot drive, but so far so good.
Consider throwing together one of the AMD APU's like the A10-5800k with a matching GPU (which I believe is the Radeon 6670, but you should absolutely check me on that). This is basically a crossfire/dual graphics card setup with lessor GPU's, but it takes significantly less power.
Here is an example of a system with cheap speakers, keyboard, mouse, and power supply included with the case for $500. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NJ56
Also note that overclocking could be tough with this setup due to cooling.
I think it's looking great. If you think you can squeeze it in the budget, you should consider an SSD for Windows 8. But overall this is an excellent budget gaming build.
There is a problem with your build. You see, the AMD APU's like the A10 you selected basically already have the equivalent of a dedicated graphics card. And they can be used in conjunction with different AMD graphics cards to double it's abilities if you want.
So if you are using the A10, you have two choices:
1) Don't purchase any other graphics cards. You will have what is listed as HD 7660D on that chart I linked earlier. You would be able to play almost anything out there right now, but a lot of demanding stuff would have to be on the lowest settings.
2) If you want another card, you should match it with a Radeon HD 6670. This can work with the A10 and basically work as if it is crossfire between two graphics cards. I have not done any research, but I believe this would be about as powerful as the 7770, or possibly better. (And it would be cheaper)
I believe that if you purchase a card higher than the 6670, it will basically eliminate the whole point of buying the A10, and you should consider another cheap AMD quad core processor instead. However, I could be wrong about that.
Does that clear things up?
That's probably a fair evaluation. But it's only $15 difference after shipping. And I would personally look into a cheaper version of the 7950.
It's just a suggestion, but I'm loving my Cooler Master Storm Scout 2. The USB 2&3 are hidden behind a sliding panel on the top front, but it's not further from front facing than anything you've listed here. I believe both models only come with 3 fans, but there is space for up to 9 120mm fans including front, bottom, and side intake, LED with an on/off switch, a painted interior, and a side window.
I have the white one. There is some light bleed with the front LED's I don't like, but I'm going to switch them out and just put them back by the mobo soon. (I grabbed a Cooler Master fan 4 pack for $10.) It should be noted that some reviews have talked about poor cooling, but I've had excellent cooling with only 5 total fans and a Hyper 212 Evo. But I haven't overclocked anything yet.
The only thing I might consider over this case is a Corsair 600T. That's just my two cents.
They all have the same effective memory clock. There is no difference there.
Personally, after I've narrowed it down, I look at what reviews say about cooling temps and fan noise of the specific models. (Obviously check power plug requirements and the size of the GPU as well.) However, they do have different core clock speeds. Assuming cooling and everything else was all equal, this would be the difference maker on performance.
I've only played BF3 a little bit, and on all ultra settings I'm hovering between 48 and 54 FPS during heavy action. It's usually right at 51.
For sure. It's far worse in the pictures, but it still needs to be done. I grabbed the second monitor from a friend for chump change just recently and haven't gotten around to it. It's on my list.
The SSD has been great for the 2 days the machine has been functional, but I really don't have much to compare it to except HDD's. Total boot time with ASRock's utility that came with the mobo is roughly 22 seconds on Windows 7. Just be aware that with a 64GB you want to redirect all of your library and download folders to another drive or it will fill up way too fast.
Yes! Excellent suggestion. That's absolutely a change I'm going to make. I was going to wait and see what cooling was like, but with the LED not matching there is now no reason for it to stay this way. I thought about this early on and completely forgot. Thanks!
Well that specific one you selected is for AMD sockets. I have no clue if it would fit the case. Just make sure you get the right one for your socket.
This is more personal preference, but I'm a fan of Corsair power supplies. Not everyone will tell you that they are the best, but they have a good rep. There are a few in the price range that you listed, like a CX500 V2.
I'm not a fan of your graphics card selection. In my head anyway, you appear to kind of be on this line. On one side, you have enough money to spend on a significant GPU to make a serious gaming machine. On the other side you should probably just roll with your wallet and settle for an AMD APU and the mobility graphics. You can build yourself a wonderful machine for $400-$500 if you aren't looking for top end gaming. Of course there are other drawbacks to an A10 compared to an i5-3570 to consider as well. Just make sure you understand what your options are.
With all of that said, if you want dedicated graphics for the price you have listed, you should probably consider a few options. Something like the GTX 650 is at about the same level but $40 cheaper after rebate if you pick the right one. And there are several HD 7770's and GTX 650ti's a step above what you have listed at about the same price. There are many options available to give you more bang for your buck at both higher and lower graphic levels.
If you are confused, check out Tom's Hardware graphics card hierarchy chart: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html
(on that chart, 7660D would be the graphics for the AMD A10 APU)
...if you like large rats.
Well some nicely timed promos and a change in power supply has dropped my after rebate price all the way to $825. So hopefully I will be able to get a 7850 and still have an SSD.
I found that power supply right before I looked at this. The newegg promo on the CX600 makes it my top choice. (plus the GS600 sold out with it's promo)
Mind explaining why you picked that motherboard for $15 more? Not a fan of ASRock? Is there a specific reason?
I'm not sure what I was thinking when I entered the temperature numbers the first time. They have been corrected to 32 and 52.
That's going to be out of my price range for sure. Anything over the $200 mark is going to be really pushing it with my budget and the rest of the stuff I want. And I'm hoping to keep it near $150.
Thanks for the advice. There aren't a ton of demanding games I'm into right now beyond BF3. But I am certainly considering the longevity of the cards usefulness as well. Generally I'm not the kind of guy that's interested in replacing the GPU every couple years.
It's something for most people to consider, and if it were for me I certainly would. But I don't imagine the owner being too interested in a graphics upgrade until the processor and most of the other hardware is outdated or dead.
Yeah, the 2x4GB we had picked out was out of stock by the time we wanted to order the parts, and the 1x8GB had a promo that made it $15 cheaper than any other 8GB option. Just another part of the budget over performance mentality of the build. Thanks for the kind words.
That would be right along the lines of the most I would consider spending on a GPU right now.