ram dimms, just about anything should rival AMD optimized ddr4-2400 ram in an intel build, maybe Corsair Vengeance LED in red(i think most of the line is centered around ddr4-3000). That said I think it ups the price $150AUD
Assuming your case fits the two radiators(not familiar with the storm trooper case), cooling shouldn't really be an issue.... liquid cooled gpu and cpu... If you really are concerned about temps (and dont want to dive into custom loops) you could look into the H240 X2 Prestige. this could add to your red color scheme ( http://www.swiftech.com/images/products/detail/H240X2Prestige_RED.1.jpg ) , and give you the possibility of adding an additional radiator to the loop(AIO meets custom loop) if temps aren't to your liking.
the second link will most likely give the best performance in the widest array of circumstances . A 240GB SSD should be large enough for the OS and the games you regularly play(double the space of the ssd in your original list, and considerably faster). The extra threads will give an advantage in multi threaded tasks(compared to the third link).
normally the gaming/streaming upgrade of choice is a more powerful GPU... but 2 core/2 thread is going to make encoding problematic. It might be time for a new platform.
If your happy with your current frame rates from the 750ti then something like this https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/Yrt2LD @ £400
or look to sell your 750ti to stay in budget, reduce the CPU a little (i5-6500 instead of i7-7700) https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/LxkZd6 , but include a sizable GPU upgrade as well(GTX 1060 6GB)
or if you want to stay on the z97 https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/JY66BP (likely the most simple, but also the least future proof... you'll eventually be looking at a platform upgrade)
Hope this helps, good luck
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9Ngf4C (i7-6700, b250, 16gb ddr4-2400, 120GB NVMe SSD) $755.94
or (if the wireless card isn't essential... no wireless card below)
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KfF6VY (i7-6700, b250, 16gb ddr4-2400, 240GB NVMe SSD) $761.13
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2yt2LD (i5-7500, b250, 16gb ddr4-2400, 480GB NVMe SSD) $772.54
Hyper 212 EVO - "Upgrade Kit Required. (Please contact to your local retailer or tech support for more information.)"
that ram is listed as ryzen compatible(at least by newegg), and it is single rank(should solve most potential issues). while a cas of 15 at 3000(2933, 3000 is a dead zone on ryzen) is a little high for samsung die-b , they may have just decided to program their XMP profile on the cautious side, to make sure you can boot. i would say its a better pick(esp for the small price difference)
my bad, i should know better than to take pcpp price listings at face value... i've run into that enough times. looks like $100 is the best around currently... and in that case, no real reason to try to find slower/cheaper
depending on the line of corsair ram, there is a chance your ram is samsung b-die. and yes while most mobos domt seem to have you locked at 2133 anymore with hypnx, they still seem to have trouble reaching advertised speeds, and often require loose timings.
why select a K-series processor and and non z-series mobo? these are OC parts and haveing only one, negates the ability to overclock which you paid a premium to have. if you dont plan on overclocking i'd save some money by getting a non k-series processor(if you do plan to, you need a z-series mobo). TLDR: you cant overclock the build you listed
good monitor?.... depends on budget. i'd recommend against getting a 1080p/60Hz monitor, as it basicly defeats the point of getting a GTX 1080... i'd be looking at 1440p/144hz monitors such as those offered by acer and asus. If you want to take advantage of g-sync you will end up paying a premium(just remember you wont be able to use freesync, so if you dont want to pay for g-sync, you can cut cost by avoiding both technologies altogether).
ssd/hdd - yes, items with longer load times such as the os, and games will make the greatest use of the SSD.... frequently used programs could also find a home here. long term storage is best kept on the HDD.
Mobo- yes and no, it should handle all your basic sound needs. the mobo won't be handleing your video needs, the GPU will. IMO a 1080 should be more than enough to handle most anything you throw at it.
while building is often easier in a larger case, if you ever plan to move it or space is at a premium you might regret a full tower. a mid tower case is usually plenty of room for most builds . My experience with a deepcool mid-tower was a huge limitation concerning cable management, but that was an old tesseract case. they might have improved on this (this case certainly looks nicer).
5- see first blurb^
I'd recommend ram that is less likely to give you issues, something made with Samsung B-die(or atleast E-die, and not Hynix) and preferably rated for 3200. or if you dont plan on setting the ram to it's advertised speed, save 30 bucks by getting a kit that is only rated for 2133 or 2400(it will default there anyway).
agree almost 100%... IMO(concerning SSD), rather than cutting 10 bucks for nearly identical performance(while very true), I'd spend $10 more and pick up a m.2 NVMe, MyDigitalSSD 240GB BPX drive. This would give a noticeable gain(over either of the above SSDs). but would be a judgement call.
every other suggestion(and reasoning for such), 100%.
honestly looks like a pretty solid build...
if you are trying to reduce the cost (and don't do a lot of multi-thread intensive tasks, i'd look towards the Core i5-7600K, about $100 less), but it all come down to what your needs are.
depending on how far you plan to push the overclock, you might want to look at a slightly stronger cooling solution, and possibly a bit more headroom on the PSU. but for light overclocking should be fine as listed... if you aren't planning on overclocking then i'd ditch the 'OC-taxed' mobo and processor(Z and K series respectively) for their cheaper counterparts.
Good Luck with the build
CPU doesn't matter...any gpu can 'utilize' either gsync or freesync displays. but as BSpboy said, the use of the specific type of refresh rate control is restricted to cards that utilize the specific technology(screen will still work fine, but you wont have variable refresh rate). While anyone could make a freesync GPU or monitor( i doubt nvidia will ever choose to, they like their tech proprietary), only nvidia can legally make a gsync cards and only those that have contracts with nvidia can legally aquire the rights and the gsync modules that are required to build gsync displays.
pcworld article addressing availability and pricing, if you want a little more
i guess that depends how much you like your current case.... i think my current machine has had 3 different cases... but i've yet to find a case i'm really 100% pleased with
your case, in essence, has something like this https://images10.newegg.com/productimage/12-400-316-03.jpg , only the two 3.0 ports have been physically afixed to the case. if only one is not working properly the issue lies within this part... could be a bent, corroded, or missing pin in the port itself, a broken or shorted wire, or a bad solder joint. If the device lights up it mean the 5v pin and at least one of the grounds is still fine. https://www.usb3.com/usb3-Apinout-600.jpg
If you are electronically inclined you could take a multi meter to it and figure out exactly where the issue it. it may or may not be 'easily' fixable. if you are mechanically inclined you could replace the part entirely.
that said, i've never considered the loss of a single usb port to be reason to ditch a platform... cover the not working usb port and plug a USB hub into the working one, now you have more ports than you started with. https://www.i-tec-europe.eu/produkt/velke/U3HUB401w1.jpg
at what speed, voltage, and timings? lots of reports of 2400 speed and occasional crashes(i dont consider that working for a 3200 dimm)
F4-3200C16D-32GVK use Hynix ICs which have repeatedly shown to be problematic on ryzen
yes there do exist Samsung B-die ripjaw V dimms, but unless you're going to do the research, and figure out just what is what, the line as a whole has a likely hood of issues with ryzen
as far as the front usb port...."one of the 2 front USB ports on my case".... 100%(99% if they are USB2.0, someone probably made a case with dedicated 1:1 header to port connections for two usb ports ) case related. if usb 3.0 ports, firm 100%(your mobo only has one usb3.0 header).... 2 ports= wires going to 1 header on the mobo.... if either works the mobo isn't the cause of the problem
Red, any chance I can convince you to stop suggesting ram that neither G.Skill nor AMD recommend for ryzen builds?
Ihad a nice write up... cursing AU component prices, etc.... but then i came across a video test, "H1Z1 King of the Kill: GTX 1050 ti - i3 6100 " https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpqUrOMuxLI (so I deleted my initial response)...
TLDR, will not maintain 60fps at 1080p on ultra(CPU bottleneck).... if you dont mind dips into the 40 fps area, or dropping settings to high, seems fine.
do fans stop on the mobo?does the screen turn off? or does it just appear that the computer froze. trying to figure out what has you convinced usb power(or power to all ports) turned off windows 10 is notorious for appearing to freeze on install(no reaction from mouse/keyboard...as long as 30 mins) but if left alone will eventually continue the install and complete successfully.
so if it freezes on(or just after) the language select screen, i recommend walking away, eating a sandwich and cheeking if it resolves itself if given the chance(assuming you haven't already).... (i have personally seen this from USB flashdrive based installs, and internal optical drive installs) ... easy, no harm, test....
anything with Samsung B-die based DIMMs. (or specifically listed as ryzen compatible)
In no particular order:
Kingston Fury series,
Geil EVO X,
G.Skill Trident Z(even the RGB version is listed as compatible, but only on asus mobos currently),
Corsair Vengeance ,
(I'm sure there are others , so if there is a brand you prefer, they likely list the ryzen compatible ram on their website)
looking at the mobo layout it has one 3.1 header, one 3.0 header(your case cable will split this to two ports), and one 2.0 header... as well as four 2.0 ports and four 3.0ports on the back IO.
I think your solution is an internal USB 2.0 header hub such as https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub (this particular one turns 1 usb2.0 header(and molex power) into 3 usb2.0 headers and 2 usb2.0 ports)
hope this helps
how far do you get before it happens? only usb shuts down or does the system hang or power down completly(and mobo error codes?).... was the machine working before the bios update?(or did you do the bios update before ever installing windows)
with the limited info, my only suggestions would be
look for a "wake by usb"(or similar bios setting) and see if changing it helps....
look at the usb ports themselves for signs of damage/shorts...
reflash the bios
intial reaction, Windows Key+R. "services.msc". Look for "Windows Search" and "Superfetch." right click> properties > startup type"disabled" .... right click > stop.(for each)
or you can trust in microsoft https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/3083595/task-manager-might-show-100-disk-utilization-on-windows-10-devices-with-message-signaled-interrupt-msi-mode-enabled
hope one of these helps
if he's looking for single core performance, then I'd have to disagree. I'd assume someone thinking about a 4 thread processor likely isn't planing to do something that would actually benefit from a multi thread focused one. I'd also assume you'd want to suggest Ram that is confirmed as ryzen compatible(and something that is designed to OC a bit more since ryzen shows such substantial gains from Ram speed). then we have the GPU, you suggested a 4GB 580 at $295 when you can get an 8GB 580 for $220. while only a $10 difference you could also put a 520w seasonic M12II evo fully modular PSU(save money, increased headroom, silent mode, etc)
so while your "much better" build seems to have a fair share of what i consider questionable choices, I dont get the pairing of z-series mobos with not k chips(and vise versa) such as in the original posted part list. why pay an OC tax if you can't OC
why pay the OC tax on a processor, if you aren't going to get a mobo that allows you to OC?
depends what you plan to do with it.... if all you plan in gaming then the 1600X isn't going to help.... if your into video editing, content creation, streaming....then those would be reasons to look at the 1600X
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series is not described by AMD or G.Skill as Ryzen compatible.... this doesn't inherently mean it wont work, but there is a greater chance you will be stuck at 2133
unless you have a lot more sata devices you plan to install but didn't list, you're fine.... with one m.2 drive you will still have 6 working sata ports... just look at the manual to make sure you don't try to use one of the two disabled ports.
K series processors have an unlocked multiplier (allowing for overclocking)... to make use of this one has to buy a mobo that allows for overclocking(this is what the z series mobos are) .... having one OC ready part but not the other means you cant make full use of it, but you are still paying the premium('OC tax')
after a look around... my personal recommendation for a B250 would be https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NdtWGX/msi-b250-pc-mate-atx-lga1151-motherboard-b250-pc-mate
But because of how prices happen to be at the moment, i wouldn't go with a b250 chipset. for about $15 more than the above(and $25 less than the b250F you originally listed ) you can future proof with the h270 chipset https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3Phj4D/asus-prime-h270-plus-csm-atx-lga1151-motherboard-prime-h270-plus-csm
you should be good, Corsair Vengeance CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 ram has been tested and is ryzen compatible(its part of AMD's extra short list confirmed at 3200 in "extensive in house testing")... some poeple are getting stuck at 2666 and 2933 on certain mobos(I can't keep track of all of them, and it could be user error).
i think there have been a couple over the years, so make sure you find the right one(CW-9060009-WW) . the am4 compatible coolers come with a braket that looks like this http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h60-h80i-h100i-h110i-amd-mounting-bracket
while this gets the general point across... the math is also wrong. 3200 is MT/s(megatransfers per second) not clock speed, ddr4-3200 has a clock speed of 1600MHz, a cycle time of 0.625ns, given a CL of 16 would come to a true latency of 10ns
similarly ddr4-3000 has a clock speed of 1500MHz, cycle time of 0.667ns, and given a CL of 15 comes to a true latency of 10ns
In real world application if two sets of ram have the same true latency, the faster one is faster.
" I'm looking to build a Ryzen 5 PC using the Asus Prime B350 Plus ATX motherboard (It can raise the RAM's speed up to 3200mhz)"
That just means the Mobo is compatible with ram that is rated to overclock to 3200, not that it will magically allow a dim rated at an OC below 3200 to run at 3200(while in some cases overclocking ram significantly past its rating is possible, it often requires that you significantly relax the timings)
another note on Ryzen, of the HyperX line currently only FURY is listed as compatible by Kingston(Impact, Savage, and Predator are not)
since you didn't mention what your machine is(or the ram speeds/timings) the answer could be slightly different from what shakaron said. If the original ram had considerably looser timings or is rated at a slower speed, you might be better off just running the new dimms(and ditching the old), as you computer will down clock everything to the lowest common point. some mobos also dont react well to mixed speed/timing ram and rather than just slowing everything down can create system instability(and BSOD). if the ram is rated for the same speed and has the same timings the chances of bad things happening are minimized. or if you happen to have an LGA 1366 platform (and the ram is all the same speed) you will see a boost in performance as it supports triple channel ram(but will default to duel channel with only two dimms installed)
so there is no one "safe voltage" and "safe temp" , more like degrees of risk(increased temps and voltage can/will shorten the lifespan of the components... its just a question of how much.... not noticable, to instant fail, and everywhere inbetween). the bios on your asus board(if i remember correctly) actually color codes your inputs based on intel and mobo specs for degrees of safety. blue, yellow, purple, red.(red being completely outside intel specs). i'm currently running a i7-920 on a asus p6t, and the docp profile (which is designed to be safe...) actually put my voltage into the purple(i personally decided not to trust it and set up a custom overclock). I think most people consider 1.35v to be safe(assuming you have decent cooling). with the general idea that <80C is "safe"(i try to stay <70C under load). the chip will thermal throttle at 100C.
no idea for replacement thermal pads for the north and south bridge heat sinks. but i did add small heatsinks to the VRM inductors(note sure if they actually help, havn't set a new overclock yet), but they dont seem to get as hot(and look pretty decent)
800MHz(I/O bus clock) is 1600MHz.... DDR stands for Double Data Rate, and transfers data on both the rising and falling edges of the clock signal.
is your PSU enough.... thats basicly a cadillac .... it should be good even if you wanted to run two 1080Ti in SLI
i try not to comment on cases(short of completely shotty construction) as people tend to have vastly different opinions on whats important, and nothing jumps out as a red flag in your list.
mobo- msi x99a gaming pro carbon, a bit cheaper without really sacrificing anything... personally i also love the look(not a huge fan of the "carbon fiber" stickers, but they don't do any harm) i think they did a great job of keeping the features that are actually wanted without going overboard with extras that i'd never make use of.
GPU- if your budget is letting you look at those cards def go with a 1080Ti. be it the EVGA FTW3 or the MSI Gaming X(hell even one of the cheaper ones would kick ***, i think the evga black edition is $50+ cheaper, but i guess i'm not sure if that matters at this point)
the H100i v2 requires corsair part CW-8960046 to attach it to an AM4 mobo... this part is still listed as "coming soon" on the corsair website. (as long as you are on the AM4 platform, changing to a different mobo wont help)
from corsair, only the H60, H110i, H100 coolers are considered compatible with the existing AM4 bracket out of the box.
cooler master- MasterLiquid 240 , MasterLiquid 120, MasterLiquid Lite 120
NZXT- my understanding is the Kraken coolers are not yet shipping with the AM4 bracket, but they have a AM4 bracket request system set up to get owners a free AM4 brackets(and i think they are actively shipping them out at this point)
other feedback, was never a fan of dell monitors (but thats based on many generations back, and probably irrelevant now), and was always a WD HDD fan(had to many barracudas die on me, but i know people that swear by them). Everything else looks like a perfect fit, PSU, GPU, Ram, SSD.... never worked with ASRock mobos, so can't really comment(but it seems like all the AM4 mobos are doing the new platform growing pains thing right now, so its hard to say who will really come out on top when it settles down)
Enjoy the machine.
i'd reconsider the ram, as the ram you selected is not considered ryzen compatible .... corsair made a statement about eventually making ryzen compatible LED ram but gave no timeline.
a short list of ram confirmed to work well by either official AMD channels and/or my personal testing(stable 2933 and/or 3200)
Corsair Vengeance CMK16GX4M2B3200C16
Corsair Dominator CMD16GX4M2B3000C15
Geil EVO X – GEX416GB3200C16DC
G.Skill Trident Z RGB Series- F4-3200C16D-16GTZR
G.Skill Trident Z F4-3200C16D-16GTZ
cooling- you selected the budget standard cooler. i will get the job done, but if you live in a perticularly hot area or plan to try your hand at overclocking(not that you can expect to get much given most people's experience) i'd recommend looking into a nice Noctua cooler or an AIO liquid cooler
so if your looking at a price range for 1080p 60Hz monitors , and budget is a guiding factor have you considered team red for a graphics card? just my 2 cents but since you are buying the monitor now(i'm guessing your not planning to upgrade it anytime soon) the 1070 seems a little excessive(at a near $400 price point) for 1080/60 when the RX 580 recently released in the $230ish range. and seems more than capable of 1440/60. and might open you budget up to a 1440p monitor. ... Just a thought.
but as a more direct answer... Acer XF240H($240) is a 1080/144 with 1 ms response time. ----- Asus PB277Q($318) 1440/75 with 1 ms response time. I just can't get myself to recommend a 1080/60 screen for a GTX 1070 set up when gaming has been mentioned(which is what it looks like it would take to get sub $200)
hope this helped at least a little
So i'm going to respond to Attunes sugesstions as well as your questions...
nothing wrong with the quality of a seasonic s12 II. nothing wrong with a G2 either(it's my goto), but thats a $25(almost 50%) increase in price to basicly go modular(since you wont notice the difference between bronze and gold at the power consumption of the listed parts)... s12 II is an excellent PSU as long as modularity isn't a concern(it will have no problem with an added optical drive) honestly you'd be fine with the slightly cheaper SeaSonic S12II 520watt(100 watt lower rating and one less chain of 3 sata power connectors(total of 6 instead of 9))
525 v 500, is minimally bigger and happens to be a considerably slower drive, and has a two year shorter warranty (its a fair toss up on how much you value the speed difference and warranty, but a long shot from a definitive improvement)
the other two recommendations are purely a matter of budget and preference. its spending more for a different look. that said if you stick with the non modular PSU the S340 does a much better job of keeping the cables out of sight.
the asus b250F is literally their most expensive b250 chipset board... without knowing exactly what features you value i can't really say what would be better/acceptable for you... but just about any other b250 mobo will be cheaper.. lost of good options pop up when searching parts here just by putting "b250" in the search field. if there is a specific reason you initially selected the b250f let me knon and I'll see if i can find a cheaper board that fits that criteria.
z series mobo seems excessive for non k chip(should be able to find something cheaper in the H270 or B250 chipsets), as does the rmx PSU at$110 (atleast when you consider a seasonic 650watt 80+ gold is currently $78, and a 550watt is more than enough for the listed parts)... and that would open up a fair amount of budget for ctf05's recomendations(which i also agree with)
I could be wrong but it sounds like you just copied the ISO to a flash drive without making the device bootable(clean partition, marked active, etc). Warlocks recommendation should solve the issue, windows also offers a free utility (but i have found it to be very buggy... 70% then hangs and gives an eventual error message)
Googling "bootable USB" will give links to various automatic utilities and CMD instrution sets(if you prefer to avoid the automation for a DIY bootable USB)
that refers to Microsoft offering further support... it has no impact on compatibility or installation(but does mean there is a likely hood of increased security issues, as no new patches will be released) .... in short a new version of windows was already out when the newer gen processors came out and they want to make sure you buy the new product rather than optimizing the older OS for your newer hardware.
generally speaking, avoid sleeve bearing fans(they are inherently axis dependent).... the only 140mm fans I've used in a horizontal orientation are not ones I could recommend for a radiator so I can't give you a specific fan from personal experience.
I can say, the corsair sp140 fans seem have the same issue(and should likely be avoided for this application)
"Is this a decentCPU Cooler", what is "this"? no link or model listed....
how much is "slightly overclock"? you can often get a slight overclock while undervolting(dont know about the 7600K specificially) in which case just about any cooler is fine.
i missed a rumor... thanks
decided to look for it, and found an article with a picture of a claimed "soldered delidded ryzen", tracked the photos back a way and this time more photos and its looks more like liquid metal TIM.... but either way,solder or liquid metal, thats a win for anyone picking up these chips, and really does eliminate the need to delid(except for the ln2 community)