It's a stock Ryzen cooler. Most Ryzens come with a stock cooler that can support moderate overclocks.
Runs Crysis I think :P
The fan clips allow you to shift the fan a bit vertically if i remember correctly, though make sure you install the RAM first.
The prices for those were a bit too high, but I definitely thought about it.
It's a tight fit, you definitely will need to plug all the cables in first, and slide it in. You will have to remove the whole PSU to plug in more cables in the future.
Glad you think so!
Could've made it on budget, but I'm not mad about going over really. When you throw the budget out the window, and just get the parts you want, it just feels better.
If I were to buy such a card on Craigslist or the like, and I really wanted it, I wouldn't pay more than $70 for it.
That being said, benchmarks put it right ahead of the GTX 1050 or GTX 960. You can go off of that, too.
While not ideal, I don't see any real harm with it being there. I seem to recall a forum about someone coating their motherboard with non-conductive stuff for a valid purpose.
I never did end up seeing what happened after he applied it though...
I imagine if it damaged it you wouldn't be able to power the PC on. That is the most sure way to tell. :D
Get ready for the influx of Intel fan-boys to comment on the matter.
(Of which I may or may not be)
Solved: IBuyPower Revolt 2
He used LM (Liquid Metal).
This guy says to replace the stock paste with Kryonaut and replace the stock pads with Arctic thermal pads.
I'll check if this laptop uses pads as stock, or paste as stock.
If it currently has pads, a simple paste may be fine.
If it already has paste, I'll need to check the real temp differences between Grizzly Conductonaut (liquid metal) and Kryonaut (non-conductive).
I'd say so. Depending on the game, you may have to put it at medium, but it should be okay.
Wait for others to pop in though.
Make sure you have a PSU that has a 6-pin power cable for it though, if the card requires such.
Just for the hell of it, look at the Thermaltake Tower 900. Its by no means mid tower. This is literally a godzilla-tier tower in itself.
The Noctis 450 is a massive mid tower.
Enthoo Pro is a full tower and massive too.
Another case I was interested in for a dual 120mm setup would be the Thermaltake Core G3. It's not as fancy as the Shift, but its definetley cheaper. It has an offset potential for the second 120mm slot, so that two can fit (in theory). Not sure if anyone's ever done one in it.
As I'm sure you know, it entirely depends.
I'm not sure how long AIO GPUs have been around, but if i had to guess, the air-cooled cards have less moving parts, and would be less prone to failure than their liquid cooled counterparts. Even if the fan failed, its going to be monumentally cheaper than if the liquid-cooled card's pump had failed. When I was first looking at GPUs to buy, the idea of a liquid cooled card had me squealing inside...but it's all down to the positives and negative you'll have to weigh.
Liquid Cooled GPU:
Typically more expensive than air-cooled counterpart
Seems more dangerous in case of a failure
Colder, possibly better overclocking potential, depends on if we are talking about a voltage/wattage wall vs a temperature wall that's keeping cards from further overclocking
Its got that COOL factor
I'd be more worried about buying a second-hand/refurb liquid-cooled card than an air-cooled one
Air cooled cards can be turned into liquid ones with a GPU bracket and an AIO, and you'd get to keep the fans for if you ever needed them. Imagine a 360mm AIO on your GPU, and a 360mm AIO on your CPU. Hmmm. I may try that one day.
In the image, the builder used a thin fan on one of the radiators, perhaps both (if we cant see the one below the radiator). I didnt read too much into his description but it should help you.
Its possible that the included fan will work...but its just as possible that it wont.
Fitting the AIOs can be done: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/r9tgXL
But about your question, adding another fan? Maybe not so much.
Good to hear!
The Logitech G11 and G15 came out in 2005; two or three years before the first Razer keyboard.
Here is the newegg link, and below is it's description, where is says "gaming keyboard": https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126009
Now it's not definitive, but we're getting there. It doesn't say: "The world's FIRST gaming keyboard".
Saitek Eclipse is the furthest back gaming keyboard that I know of. It came out in 2005 I think, however, I don't know if it was marketed as a gaming peripheral. I'm sure there are some a bit further out, but none that I can find with a simple google search.
Edit: Looking back on some old forums from 2003ish, they tended to like Microsoft Natural Keyboard Pro for gaming.
...by doing this.
It sucks, but I'm sure modern consoles and PCs have a way around this.
Long story short:
Get a GTX 1060 6GB or GTX 1070 8GB laptop, and replace the 2.5" drive with a 1TB SSD, or add an M.2 1TB SSD.
Ty for sharing. Also, I found the build with your Asus VI: Amazing.
Try and re-plug everything back in with the new PSU. You may have had a loose connection.
BIOS is Red/Black (Indifferent)
Up to DDR4-3400 (Indifferent)
No I/O Cover (Lose)
More USB ports (Win)
Supreme FX Integrated Sound Card (Indifferent)
BIOS is Black/Blue (Indifferent)
Less USB ports (Lose)
I/O cover (Win)
Crystal Sound Integrated Sound Card (Indifferent)
But i'm sure they both suffer from typical Asus sound problems.
AW 15 R2, R3, or R4, and at what price?
The dream died ten years ago for me...
I think that I lost hope when I tried out Chain of Memories. The game was the wake up call for me that they aren't serious about making another full-fledged KH game.
I'm sure you'd be happy with either. Look at "Completed Builds Using This Part" at the bottom of each of their pages within the Case Directory. Read up on what they thought of them, and how it looks.
Throughts on the Dark Base 700:
On a personal note, I've had the Enthoo Pro Full Tower, and it was nice, so I may be a bit biased.
Also have my eyes set on the EVOLV ITX for my next build. If they released a Dark Rock ITX like this, I would flip.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gG4gXL/apevia-case-xcruiser2rd (Takes the cake; yet can't be bought)
Check this out if you haven't.
"[–]Cristol365 3 points 1 year ago
Hey guys i solved the problem. I bought a brand new gigabyte motherboard with 2 kingston ram sticks at 2400 MHz. I had that issue, 5 long beeps and the the system restarts. It was because the ram modules are listed like 1-3-2-4 and if you dont use your 2 sticks with 1-2 and 3-4 it makes that beeps. Hope it helps. "
Another user had bent pins, so look for that too.
Another user had a bad socket.
Try LinX if no errors show up with MemTest. It tests the CPU and RAM, just use HWMonitor so you can see the temps while you do it.
You are sure that no pins are bent from the CPU?
Get a USB drive and run MemTest86+: will test your RAM for errors.
Is the kit new or refurbished/used?
you lucky soul you
Simple, non-explosive, and maybe not as fun:
open up cmd window > diskpart > list disk > select disk 0 > clean
either, depends on the offer
Its the 1st gen, not sure on the year. The logo is flat, does not bump out like the 2nd gen.
Did it still power on, or did it short-circuit? If it powered on still, I'd try and clean it if I were you.
91% Isopropyl Alcohol, nice on-brand q-tips, and some clean dry hand-towels/paper towels. If it's messed up already, trying to clean it with this shouldn't be harmful.
Worth noting, if the repairs are anywhere near $500, I'd just say screw it and buy a new gaming laptop for $699 with a 1050.
This is just another example of why GEIL RAM is inferior in quality. Wouldn't reach the specified clock speeds. Run LinX and see if you get any errors. I had to RMA mine and it was a nightmare. Only somewhat stable at 2133.
There's a company that does the delidding for you. The cost differs based upon the processor, but they offer a warranty. I have no experience with the company, unfortunately, but its an option I think you should know about.
Also, if you want the build to get more attention, upload more images.
Kudos to you for doing what i couldn't: custom cooling.
It means one of your SATA ports used to transmit data between a Hard Drive or Optical Drive and the motherboard will not work. Shouldn't be a problem, as long as you have enough SATA ports to use for whatever else you are using.
On a side note, you don't need an internal PCIe LAN card, or a wireless PCIe card, as the motherboard has both of those.
And I would opt for complete Windows, and not OEM.
I love the look of this fan, wish I actually needed it. :D
...There's no GPU slot..
Thanks for the input.
I'd only do the FireCuda SSHD for a laptop, and I'm not too terribly worried about sound, but the vibrations were terrible. I guess it's almost synonymous, but I'm sure I could have padded it somehow.
I'll keep those in mind, too.