2 light coats of Australian Export Aerosol Paint - Enamel, Matt Black, 250g
For me personally, yes, I really enjoy ITX. It has just the right amount of slots and ports for the common user - sort of a "all you'll ever need" package.
But at the end of the day, just choose the form factor that fits your budget/aesthetic/purpose and you'll never regret it.
It's hard to say whether to get the 2400GE since it hasn't been released yet - but the general rule of thumb is to go for the latest chip, as long as it's priced well or gives you better value. It also depends on whether you need the system right now, or you can afford to wait more. Personally, if you're budget conscious, I'd wait it out either way since the price of the 2200G/2400G will drop come release time of the newer gen APU's.
I don't think there are any black low profile coolers for the AM4 socket at the moment, so I guess it's only achievable via DIY/Mods for now. Alternatively, you can dremel out a hole in the mesh and use the stock fan like BitWit did.
The PSU is built only for the chassis - there isn't a universal name for its shape/size.
I'm unsure whether there is a higher wattage PSU for it, however, I am certain you'd have to have a ridiculous amount of peripherals attached to even hit the power ceiling (eg. all ~8 USB ports powering 8 external HDD's + 2 internal HDD's).
Although, surprisingly, 150W is plenty for an iGPU build - So just like how 450W is the standard for desktops, 150W is the standard for SFF iGPU setups.
99-102W is the highest this build type will consume, so there is still plenty of overhead for overclocking and external charging.
For reference, this build is mildly overclocked and has been regularly charging a PS3 controller and a Samsung S7 at the same time (even with its RGB strip on) - no issues whatsoever.
Yes, however it would need a little bit of DIY - since the In-Win Chopin does not have a PCI bracket slot.
Either do a chassis mod, or use a PCIe riser/extender cable (to have it outside).
It's in plentiful supply down here in Australia (no idea why).
I too have been hearing the difficulty getting it in the US - So I guess your best bet would be to call around or enquire in-store.
I have since overclocked the iGPU to 1650MHz - but even then (at idle) it's still whisper quiet. It does, however, become slightly audible for only a few seconds after boot, and when playing games for hours; but this is normal.
If you are encountering noise at any other time; install the silent adaptor (included in the box). Then go into the BIOS (or OS fan software) and check the RPM of the fan (at idle, it should sit between 15-60%). If it doesn't, force the fan setting/curve to run it there.
If that doesn't help, check that no dust/obstructions are in or around the fan (or heat-sink) and no case wires are in the way. Also try placing the build where it has unrestricted access to room-temp air.
Worst case scenario, check the fan is not spinning at a sharp angle (bent) and/or if the blades are chipped/warped/damaged (uneven load) - RMA the cooler if so.
Could be a mix of different issues, check:
150W should be fine for power, as the build should really only consume a maximum ceiling of 99W.
If all the above is checked, it's most likely a BIOS problem; so if you don't have another ryzen chip - order a boot kit from AMD.
If still nothing, try some self diagnostics with a spare/loaned PSU/RAM/Motherboard/CPU and try power on the build outside the chassis.
In worst case scenario, RMA the PSU, RAM, CPU and/or Motherboard.
The case does incredibly well in gaming; and in actual fact, it was part of an AMD sponsored eSports rig for Fnatic in 2016.
Also - if you read the description, this build was for my parents. AZEND is my daily driver.
Floats around RX 550 / GT 1030 type performance
For my main build, it managed 2933MHz on a 2x8GB Corsair kit (Hynix) just by increasing the memory multiplier (BIOS F22b - X.M.P disabled), for the AZEND Mini I've left it at stock (2400MHz - X.M.P also disabled).
Watch this video, the AMD rep goes through everything you need to know (the BIOS names and settings should be the same/identical to the Gigabytes) + the software to use for stability checking. His tips are particularly superb to get past 2933.
If you ever mess up (fails to post/boot/power-on) unplug the power, then unplug CMOS battery, then wait 10 seconds and re-plug + power on. Then try again. Best to have pen and paper ready to take down notes on what your stable settings were so you can always go back to them.
A total powerhouse for the size!
Indeed, for builds with 8GB kits (like this AZEND mini) any setting other than 1GB or 2GB is ideal.
As Steve said in the comments, bumping it to the maximum 2GB has a gain of 2-3 FPS. And with a 16GB kit, there isn't anything to lose - 14GB is still plenty for the rest of the system.
But, he fails to mention that by making it visible to windows that 2GB is available can totally eliminate any chance of stutters & delays (or chokes) when an application suddenly demands higher VRAM (an unseen variable in his testing since he only showed frame averages). This may also be the very reason for the 2-3 frame difference in the averages.
So while its only a small gain, it is basically a free performance tweak for a system with 16GB RAM. But I digress, everyone will have their own requirements and the most beautiful thing is that the setting exists.
Thanks for the tip!
Will edit asap
Tried it - it looked terrible (contrasted against the black and gold aesthetic)
But, that idea would be good for a black/red/white/silver theme
Thanks for the update!
Anyway, the Noctua and Stock cooler should be identical performance wise - only key difference is the Noctua is much more quieter with slightly lower power consumption
Unfortunately, there is RGB lol
I always have the strip set to static warm yellow/white like the AZEND however
Yes, stock chassis has a side panel. One for motherboard side, one for 2.5" drives side.
Will take a look into it for a future build
Primarily for aesthetics - keeping the main black/gold theme (and because the metal armour reflected the LED lights too much).
Was also to help with keeping out dust when it comes time to upgrade the chassis to support a full dGPU, the tape can just be removed.
Depends where you get the board from, some will have the RR support, others won't (since 2017 stock will still be floating around).
But in general, it's a roll of the dice. Best to ask the supplier/store you will get it from.
I'm unsure about clearance in the Node 202, but I just measured out the stock cooler for you - it is 5cm high from the CPU die surface (+0.5-1.0cm from motherboard).
TL;DR - Was throwing out household scrap one day and thought of a better use of the Gold Vinyl and Black Matte sheets.
Eureka moment came when I spotted a crafting knife on the floor.
For RAM compatibility, it's really a roll of the dice - but the more recent the BIOS is, the better compatibility you will get.
RAM frequency is not directly linked to the fan speed (noise). The source directly linked to fan speed is the CPU temperature (since that is the stock source in the BIOS - but you can let it adjust based on other temperatures like the VRM). Typically aim between 600 to 1100 RPM for the best balance of airflow, noise & power consumption.
Anyway, on stock/auto settings, you will have no problems with noise or temps, especially if just web browsing. Also, there are silent 4-pin/3-pin fan extension adaptor headers out there - which simply reduce the voltage of the fan (which in turn reduces speed & noise). I'm unsure if the PSU fan can have one installed - but it is silent enough already.
There should be no compatibility issues at all, especially when leaving all settings to stock/auto in the BIOS - and yes, I had to flash the F20 BIOS using another chip and GPU because the board had BIOS F5 out of the box (non-RR).
F10 is the bare minimum to use the processor, but I strongly recommend F20 due to the GPU overclock feature and much greater RAM stability (AGESA compatibility).
On first OS install, first thing to do is to temporarily set the display to a low resolution like 720P (to not stress out the iGPU) and download the latest chipset + gpu drivers before ramping up.
Hardware wise - the motherboard and it's connecting cables are quite tricky to install and route (especially if installing a second 2.5" drive - or a LED strip like me). So I strongly advise pre-planning it.
Also make sure you have a torx screwdriver handy (to remove the 3 outer screws and get access to the front cable management holes) and use any wires you receive in your retail boxes as cable management ties.
Please share when it's done!
It's the stock mounting positions for the In Win Chopin chassis - no mods required. The included cage mounts force them to be that way.
Haha yes, the local craft shop absolutely loved my presence
Thanks so much mate
Yes, and it might be the only retail AM4 cooler that fits within the clearance (right out of the box).
Hahaha, cheers mate!
Ahh right, my apologies! Yes, I can guarantee the PSU will handle your needs no issue!
Yes, the little fan on it is so quiet that all I could hear is the CPU Noctua cooler (and even that is whisper quiet). You can probably get near 0dB as well if you can squeeze in the included 'silent' extension adapter.
Enjoy your build mate!
Yes, first two pictures in the build log - https://imgur.com/a/CUxv2
I designed this build with the intention for 1080P eSports + emulation + basic office use at the very highest; so the 1080ti will defeat the entire purpose (and boost the price by more than double).
Radeon Vega graphics aren't terrible either, while sure, they can be a bit under NVidia in some gaming environments, they are monsters in raw data (eg. mining) and can be tweaked to surpass them.
I also (personally) prefer Radeon's driver software, it has greater flexibility than NVidia's while also having a really nice UX/UI.
Nice! 16GB is really good for this build - just make sure to set the VRAM allocation to maximum (2GB). Did you get a deal on them? Or was it bought before the hike?
Anyway, the Noctua fits really nicely and is whisper quiet at idle. The only reason to get it is so that the side panel can be put on when needing to travel or-the-like (with this chassis). From the fan to the panel mesh, there is about 2-4cm to spare (mesh is offset outside a little bit), and from the fan to the panel, is about 1-3mm.
One thing for sure is that the stock cooler will not fit (although can be installed if you intend to keep the side panel off).
Thanks! Although 120-140W seems ridiculously high...
I only ever saw the 2400G peak at 68W with everything set to stock/auto config in the BIOS (and at full load). It's also important to note the stock Wraith Stealth heat-sink fan cooler (that comes with the chip) has a TDP of ~65W; so I guess that review source clocked the 2400G to its highest limits and used a large aftermarket cooler (which would be seriously counter-intuitive for a SFF build).
Shouldn't worry too much about going over however, since motherboards and PSU's nowadays have safety features when power seeps over (a switch-off trip). And if you're too concerned, you can always down-clock the chip (I think people have made it down to 35W without issue).
But so far, I haven't had a problem with the PSU yet; no matter what was being done on the system, from gaming to general browsing. It has been going solid for 62+ hours straight now - the RGB led strip, motherboard, SSD, and RGB keyboard + mouse combo all powered at the same time - it handles them all like a champ (and quite silently too, I might add).
I suppose if you were to add a second 2.5" drive AND connect 3-5 power hungry peripherals via USB (phone/tablet/desk back-lighting etc.) it'd just break-even with the maximum PSU output (and still not trip) ...but, it's not like the everyday person will ever need to do all of that anyway.
TL;DR - Don't worry friend! Just like how 450W is the recommended for Desktop builds with dGPU's, 150W is the sweet spot for SFF builds with an iGPU.
Bought in January last month, but it had a non RR BIOS out of the box.
It wouldn't hurt to order the boot-kit now, since it really is a roll of the dice (some 2017 stock are still floating around without the required BIOS) OR, ask your supplier/store if they can do it.
For the 2400G on the Gigabyte AB350N ITX - first need to ensure the motherboard has at least BIOS version F20. Then enter into the BIOS and tweak settings under 'chipset' and 'M.I.T'.
I'm highly against first time users doing this though (since it's still an early platform), so it would be best to leave everything on auto/stock.
Also note that even at stock, the performance is really impressive for an iGPU (it's currently the best one out there afterall).
Couldn't agree more, absolute bliss for the family!
3 really big ones.
Something on the lines of RX 550 / GT 1030. Haven't tried OC'ing as of yet, but I see from various reviewer videos it flies just under the lines of an RX 560 - so it isn't meant to be a pure gaming machine (only a very capable lightweight one).
Also have had no issues whatsoever with drivers or BIOS updates since it has been running perfectly fine for 58+ hours straight now.
So I guess the major issues are only present for those that want to tweak the BIOS (as the other guy said - still an early platform) but otherwise, it's simply plug and play
Build log - https://imgur.com/a/CUxv2
Haven't had the time to do benching yet - but there should be countless already online
It doesn't run rocket league... rocket league runs after it!
No need for theft... because it has already stole your heart away
The benchmark results was in reference to numbered scores like those seen on 3D Mark: FireStrike and similar programs of-the-like. The end number is nothing more than a bragging right since it does not describe the users "experience" nor provides any useful information that may assist others.
"Experience" is described in a qualitative manner (instead of quantitative) so it cannot be given a hard scientific numeral (except when counting how much qualitative information was given).
Apart from that, frame rates from games is indeed a useful for those who intend to use their system for gaming; but, the 75% score I provided was from my time doing 3D/2D workstation activities involving CAD, Adobe Photoshop and Premiere. I don't have enough time in my working day to test games, so sincere apologies that I cannot be of assistance there.
But, I can confidently say, however, based on the endless benchmark results out there, the 470, 480, 570 & 580 offer the best price to performance ratio at the moment (if you can get them at normal MSRP). If siding with Nvidia - the 1050ti 4GB, 1060 3GB, & 1060 6GB. Try not to stress too much over negligible frame differences (because you won't notice them in real time) or turning back 1 or 2 settings (from high/ultra) - because at the end of the day all of them absolutely dominate 1080P without a sweat (even at stock clocks).
It would be more worthwhile to decide on the cards' aesthetic (heat-sink fan cooler shroud/backplate), size (case compatibility), LED features (Single/RGB) and price within that range.
Handcrafted using scrap resources in the home, detailed specifics in the description
When choosing viynl wrap, get the rolls that are advertised for automotive use (this one was). They hold perfectly fine (even under heat/load), just cut, peel and apply!
Nice to hear your story! Yeah it definitely is cumbersome!
Thanks! Yeah, the riser cable came free with the case. It's Thermaltakes' standard cable (not the premium ones) but it works perfectly fine as long as it's not bent into position too sharply.