Although I agree this is mostly true, there are some games out now that utilize all available threads/cores. Its not as common, but I would suggest looking at exactly what games you want to play most, determine whether they actually utilize more than 4 threads/cores and then decide from there if you want an i7 or an i5.
see my comment above.
There's really not much of a difference.
Overall, the Asus board will give you a few extra "things" even though you might not even notice them or need them, and it'll cost you an extra ~$40 (in the US)
Glad to hear it!
I'm not 100% positive on this, but I read through the manual for your motherboard and of your three PCIe slots, only 1 of them runs at x16 (the other two are at x8 and x4 respectively, sharing bandwidth with the x16 slot for combinations of x16, x8/x8, and x8/x4/x4).
This is the part I'm not 100% sure about because your motherboard manual doesn't explicitly say it, but I am pretty confident that your top PCIe slot (closest to the CPU socket) is the x16 slot. Putting your 1070 in any other slot will reduce the number of PCIe lanes available for the card and technically isn't optimal for getting the best performance.
All of that being said, there really isn't any difference between running at x8 and at x16 (evidence here), but you probably don't want to run at x4.
This description is excellent, but I find myself wondering what you do that requires 6TB of absolutely critical data? I guess I can't really imagine because I know I don't need a NAS, but I really only have about 700 GB of total data for my wife and I.
To add to this, from what I can tell most people don't actually do a "future SLI" at all. By the time you get around to wanting or needing another of the same graphics card, it seems as though most people just buy a new top-line single card (upgrading to 1080 from a 780 for example). Although I haven't been building for very long, it also seems that GPU wattage requirements are almost constant across generations ( GTX x80's are all around 150-180W), so doing this wont require a new PSU.
Generally the best advice is to buy the best single card that you can, as SLI and xFire don't have as much support in the drivers as a single card does (obviously every individual card MUST work, but SLI or xFire is optional).
DEFINITELY add an SSD. Its worth every penny for a boot drive (just get a 128GB SSD if you don't want to spend too much). You will absolutely notice the difference in performance.
For 1080p gaming, all of those are way overpowered (CPU and GPU). Note that my suggested list here includes the monitor that you have listed in some of your other parts lists. Here's what I would do:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Change the CPU to i5-6500. This CPU has better price to performance (when not overclocking) and will be fine at 1080p for years to come. Also since it comes with a stock cooler and can't be overclocked, you don't need to buy an aftermarket cooler. If you want to overclock, keep the 6600K and the aftermarket cooler (although I would suggest the hyper 212 evo instead for mild overclocks).
Change the GPU to 1060 (parametric filter). For 1080p gaming, the gtx1060 will get you full max settings on any game at 60+ fps. A gtx 1070 is really meant for 1440p gaming and a gtx1080 is meant for 1440p@144Hz or 4K gaming. This is my biggest concern for your build. Don't drop an extra $200-$500 on a GPU when the gtx1060 will suit your needs.
The PSU you chose isn't that great (especially for overclocking, its just not as reliable as some others), but if you scale down the parts to what I suggested, it's fine (although even here I replaced it with top-of-the-line-qualtify SupernovaG2 650W). The MoBo and RAM are your choice, so I won't interfere. I would consider getting a cheaper (and smaller) case like the NZXT S340, but again, user preference. Added the monitor that you had in your listing. Added cheap (but reliable) 1TB hard drive.
not anymore. http://www.extremetech.com/computing/222721-end-of-the-line-bios-updates-end-non-k-intel-skylake-overclocking
Also, changing the BCLK value for non-K SKUs can be a little risky, since many other clockspeeds are based on BCLK (RAM for example), which can cause your system to be unstable. And from what I know, only certain motherboards ever supported this anyway (and I had never heard of any ASUS MoBos supporthing this).
But the PSU will only pull what is required from the wall. If the PC only needs 100W, a 750W PSU will only pull 100W. My personal opinion is it depends on plans for the future (ever going to add a GPU?) and cost.
He meant that the 980 doesn't live up to the overall build cost. When you spend nearly 5,000 on a PC, he was saying that you should spend more than 500 on a GPU.
EDIT: That being said, I disagree given what this PC (these PCs?) are being used for and its everyone's personal preference on how to spend their money.
Nope, I knew this in advance and bought the hyper 212 Evo on purpose for the extra cooling (comparatively) that it provides.
I'm using about 30 or so mods, most of them pretty simple. I've got ProjectENB installed and am using a 4k texture pack as well as all of the Enhanced Towns and Villages (or Towns and Villages Enhanced) mods plus several environment mods (flora and fauna updated? one of the water mods? etc.)
I'm getting around 60 fps indoors with a minimum of 49 fps outdoors at 1440p, which is totally acceptable for me.
I personally don't like this motherboard. I'm using it in my first build, and I've decided I don't like the way MSI delivers their content. My audio system (Creative Sound Blaster Cinema 2) seems to come and go, changing the sound quality with it, and I absolutely hate the way the killer networking is implemented.
Those are my two main gripes, other than that it just seems to be a standard motherboard for me, but I really am enjoying the asus z-170 pro gaming on my new build a lot more than I've enjoyed this mobo. But you know, to each their own.
I agree with you. IMO, once you get past the Rayleigh Criterion it doesn't matter how high of a resolution you have, you literally will not be able to tell the difference.
With regards to this comment thread, I was just pointing out the technical definitions of each resolution and what that means in pixel count.
I just bought this intel adapter and its awesome. I pay for 105 Mb/s and this adapter gets me 120 Mb/s from a different floor and the other side of my house.
Technically 4k is actually 3840x2160, but your point is spot on,
and EDIT: an "8k" monitor would be 4 4k monitors in a 2x2 grid, all in one monitor (the same way 4k is actually 4 1080p monitors in a 2x2 grid all in one monitor).
No card can run 4 4k monitors simultaneously at 60fps
Had any problems with your card running hot with the new Crimson Drivers?
so you were able to get 2000 MHz on the memory (quad pumped for 8 GHz effective) on the stock voltage and power target?
This is awesome, but I'm really curious as to what voltage and power target do you have for those 980Ti's?
In DirectX 12 they do, but not in DirectX11
Really nice part selection, I just built something pretty similar. Regarding the motherboard bios update, that just an aspect of shipping in today's world, but the SSD thing does seem weird to me. You should definitely try overclocking that CPU, bonus performance for basically no cost. I followed overlock.net's skylake guide and got myn6700k to 4.7 GHz at 1.35 volts on the h100iGTX with some extra room to spare to maybe push up to 4.8.
I was just about to purchase that at some point. Right now I just have the forgotten expansion
Honestly, I didn't like the visual of having the top plates removed if I was only going to put a 240 Rad up there. With a 360 rad its totally different.
Add to that fact that I'm really big on having positive pressure in the case (for dust control), and I didn't want to have two in/two out with my two out being SP120's. There's a lot of evidence to show that it doesn't really matter where you put the rad (within temperature measurement error), so I stuck it on the front.
Your link doesn't work
So far its great. Its a little bit long in order to have all that space behind the radiator for watercooling parts, but its something that I want to get into, so its probably a good thing.
Yea, there are a bunch of people that use the DK2 with Elite:Dangerous right now and it just looks amazing. Considering that I want to play the game anyway, its going to be awesome.
Its pretty awesome. I didn't even have to buy extra fans since the case came with 2 140mm's and the cooler came with 2 SP 120mm's.
Yes I am planning on getting custom cables. The real question is, am I going to pay $100 to have someone do them for me, or am I going to pay $80 for supplies and then try and learn how to do it myself.
Don't worry, we both still use our iPads very extensively. I almost stuck with the Mac until I learned that apple wouldn't support DX12 and Elite:Dangerous therefore won't be supported any more on a Mac.
Thanks! Age of Empires is great by the way. I got it for $3 on sale on Steam last week. Definitely pick it up if it goes on sale.
I checked up on this motherboard and it only has two PCIe slots (top and bottom). The PCIe slot that the GPU is plugged into (bottom) is locked at x4. So I would definitely suggest moving the card up to the top slot.
The only thing I don't like about my Gaming5 is the ethernet controller. I had a ton of problems when I upgraded to Win10 from Win8.1 with all kinds of driver issues. In the build that I just finished putting together last night and am currently OCing, I specifically chose a MoBo that had intel ethernet so that this wouldn't be an issue.
Pictures are gorgeous. I think I see a new featured build, and I'm super jealous of the parts.
I would still rather have it run at x8 than x4
You should move your GTX960 to the top full PCIe slot. This will give you the best bandwidth. Most likely your current PCIe slot is on x4 or x8 at best, not the x16 that your top slot would give you.
I just had a similar problem with my Corsair H100iGTX last night and was able to fix it. My H100iGTX was listed as an "other device" even though it was recognized as being an H100iGTX, but when I tried to update the drivers, it said it as up to date. I ended up searching the internet and found a solution. I manually updated the driver by directing it to the folder C:/Program File s(x86)/SiLabs. Somewhere in that folder it found a driver that caused it to be recognized as a USB device.
I then uninstalled and reinstalled the software (Corsair Link, CAM in your case) because after updating that driver, it said it needed a signed version of the software.
Obviously I'm not sure if this will be the case with NZXT vs Corsair, but seems like maybe a good place to start. If you can, make sure you backup the current driver for the Kraken just incase the SiLabs (if it exists on your directory) driver screws up everything.
I would suggest that given that you already have the 4771, there's not much need to upgrade. I would actually wait until the next CPU cycle, Kaby Lake. By then DDR4 prices will be on par with current DDR3 prices, the 14nm process will be good and you'll actually see a significant difference in performance and power consumption.
If you feel like you really need to upgrade, I would go with the 4790k because that's the only thing you would need to buy. That being said, you will only see small performance changes between the 4771 and the 4790k
I get 50-80 Mb/s over wifi on my laptop (7-10 MB/s)
While I agree with Edlnk that if this power solution works for him and doesn't go above the rated temperature then it is fine, but there were just good rebate sales on the EVGA G2 series that brought the price down to about $85, making that a cheaper and more reliable unit. I don't think this psu is the kind of thing that immediately needs to be taken care of, but when some of the better units are on sale, they have really good sale prices.
I have to say, I'm not a fan of that case, but to each their own. Great internal part selection, but I was wondering why everything seems a little overpriced. Usually caviar blues go for about $50, same type of thing for the processor and 970. Is this not in USD?
PSU Tier List. Generally you want to stay in the Tier 1 or Tier 2 PSUs unless your budget dictates otherwise.
I would upgrade the PSU first. IMO the other parts aren't bad (depending on your budget) and you can definitely get some life out of them.
I sense a new featured build on its way. This looks absolutely amazing. I wish I had the money to do watercooling the way it was meant to be done (like this).
Did you add the Mayhems Red after filling the loop with water?
You should move your graphics card up to th higher pcie slot. On this motherboard that slot only runs at x8 if I remember right and the top slot is the one that runs at x16
Yea, I love the s340.
When you have a space between your two ram modules they operate in "dual channel". Now I'm not an expert, but effectively the idea is that you can get more bandwidth/speed between your CPU and ram when the two modules are in dual channel than in two separate single channels.
Usually your mobo will say which two spots to occupy. As an example I will arbitrarily number them from left to right as 1 2 3 and 4. My mobo says to use spots 2 and 4 occupied first in dual channel, but many mobos say to use 1 and 3. It just depends on your mobo, but the idea is that doing this will get you better memory speed.