No. The motherboard has red accents. The 3 front fans are lit with green LEDs, there is a green LED strip running around the seam of the side window and there are two sets of green LED spotlights shinning on the CPU cooler (mounted above the rear fan/along the side of the front fans).
Color depth is not amazing, obviously 1080p is not amazingly high rez these days but the refresh is very fast.. smooth as butter. They are everything they claim to be.
100 frames? Depends on the game. BF4 multi-player I run in in the 100-120 area on high.
The foremost fan is mounted slightly higher than the second fan to accommodate the RAM. The more important part is making sure the cooler itself can clear the RAM, the fans are somewhat more flexible. There is a list on the Fanatecs site showing which RAM works and doesn't.
I don't now that the 804 existed when I built my machine.
It looks like the 804 has fans on the 'dark side' which is kinda nice if your PSU/disk drives/SSDs generate a lot of heat...or if you are water cooling and want to run a radiator over to that side. Otherwise it's mini/micro ATX and the Corsair is full size and very deep on the light side (it looks like the dark side on the 804 is as wide as the light side and on the 540 the light side is roughly twice the size of the light side).
Stylistically I like the corsair which looks a little less like a mini-fridge. I'm also a fan of the corsair brand in general (this is actually my first build without Corsair RAM, just because the clearance/price didn't make sense with my cooler)
As for lighting...
The front 3 fans have LEDs in them (some of the pics where before I added the 3rd front fan), there are two 5 LED spotlights that are pointed at the cooling tower. You are correct there is an NZXT PCI LED strip (which is insanely bright so I keep it on low) that runs the parameter of the window (behind the bevel) from the PCI port the excess of which is run back down the inner back edge past it's point of origin and into the dark side.
There is no difference unless you plan on going G-Sync which is an Nvidea tech.
It actually may be that one is a DVI-I but I'm not gaming on the second monitor and I'm only running 1080p so it makes no difference to me.
There are two on the video card.
I tried, I tried so hard but the Damn EVGA badge(which is the coolest of all of them) won't budge (I feel like I'm gonna rip of my finger nail or at the very least ruin the thing) it's just slightly cockeyed but the other two are aligned with each other. sigh I'm gonna take a butter knife to it when I upgrade to SLI and get a spare (whenever that happens).
It's won't take 12 hours... The entire build process takes < an hour if you know what you are doing (after the 3rd RMA I got really good and I built this guy in about 30 minutes + another 45 for the lights and fans)...Just block 2 or 3 hours so you can take your time and do it right.
I would watch a youTube video on how to do a build (most are about 45 minutes long) and you can even find some that are specific to your case/parts. Then I would go through and re-watch as you do each step. Aside from the CPU placement/thermal paste/CPU cooler mounting(which will vary based on cooler) and connecting your case lights and stuff to the MoBo pins most everything is just thumb screws and clicking stuff together.
You get them all seperately and they are all warrantied seperately, etc. but I would just order everything from New Egg in one big order (the price difference on the total order will be negligible, you will get great shipping and STELLAR customer service).... but yeah you will have to assemble it yourself or pay someone a premium to do so for you (there are people who will build PCs custom for you).
...Yes I put the stickers on myself (notice how the one is a bit crooked :P) each part generally comes with a sticker/poster/door hanger or w/e.
Umm 780 :) I'm probably going to throw another 770 in this guy when Star Citizen comes out next year.
Center tower is actually white (it's just lit green) and the mobo is red/black, remove/change the lights and this build fits other schemes. When I sleep it the mobo glows red/white.
I choose green cause I wanted to go borg themed.
The 3 fans in the front are lit (in some pics I only have two installed) and there is an led strip running around the window and into the back corner (below the VC/by the HDD) and that is set to low. There are also two spot light LEDs pointed at the cooling tower (one is mounted to the rear exhaust fan and the other on the side of center/front intake fan).
Awesome, great response/refresh and they can tilt 90 degrees. Color depth doesn't hold up to my MAC at work though. Great for gaming, if you are a designer I would look at something else.
Otherwise my old complaint is that the supplied VGA cords are too short so if you are running two monitors expect to run to best buy.
The RAM is fairly low profile and I did have to pass up on some cheaper DIMMs because of clearance. The Phanteks site has a list of what specific models of ram will clear. Just make sure you put the ram in before the cooler! + you may have to raise the outside fan a few centimeters relative to the inside fan (the mounts are adjustable for this reason). Also don't get caught up on cool looking RAM cause you will never see it (unless you have 4 DIMMS and are using the outside slots).
It fit the case with about 1/2 inch to spare and the hardest part is attaching the tower to it's mounts which are spring loaded and need to be turned at the same time. If you try to turn one and then the other (even 1/4 turns at a time) one will catch and the other wont, I needed to buy a comically long phillips head just for this (adjustable/ratcheting drivers and stuff wont fit between the two heatsinks).
Pretty sure I just used this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12153/lit-235/NZXT_Premium_Sleeved_Bright_LED_Kit_-_1_Meter_-_Green_CB-LED10-GR.html?tl=g6c77s1337
It made it all the way around the window and had a few inches extra to do the inside rear corner. It's very bright, I run it on the lowest setting.
If you count the PSU, video card and CPU there a total of 11 fans in this thing, so it better be fantastic.
The fan controller never really needs to go above 60% on the case from its temp readings...but I haven't tried to OC anything.
If you are going to do it get 3 120mm fans for the front, the case comes with 3 140mm fans, one is rear exhaust and the other 2 are mounted front from the factory but I moved them to the top (since I'm not radiating/water cooling) and got the 120s for the front. Having the 2 140s in the front you don't get has much air on the bottom near the HDD and vid card exhaust as you do with 3 120s.
I imagine it's better than most cases because the fans are all situated to pull air across your components and out in the same direction/up rather than sucking air out the side, and there is nothing but vital components being cooled (the CD drive, PSU and SSDs are all on the dark/warm side).
Pretty sure only engineers can really stand up to vehicles. They have bazookas, otherwise recon has C4 but good luck getting close enough with your head still on.
Finally got the hang of it, avoiding tunnel vision, using grenades, learning the classes, learning the maps, unlocking some scopes... And I realized that I still had my monitors set to 60hz. Bumped those biatches up to 144hz and wow, just wow.
Oh and it helps to play TDM/rush/dom instead of conquest and avoid the vehicular meyhem while you level.
Thanks I will look I to it... Might just have to disable all the fancy boot stuff... Or get another SSD for Christmas. For now windows has been reinstalled and I'm finishing moving all my media and stuff to the mechanical and trying not to suck at BF4.
Yeah lol I just FUBARed windows trying to use the same boot partition for Ubuntu... Time to wipe my SSD and reinstall. sigh
Both OSs have their boot partitions on the same SSD so that's not gonna work, unless you know something I don't.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g6/Lighting.html Lights are cheap but the shipping is not :(
Ran a strip of LEDs around the edges of the window, put two spotlight LEDs in and pointed them at the heatsink and the front fans are lighted.
The red lights are part of the board itself.
Dual booting is actually harder than I anticipated thanks to win 8's UEFI secure boot loader. Going to be able to do it but it's significantly more work than it used to be.
FYI I didn't updade the parts list but you are going to want to buy 3x 120mm fans for the front (then you can move the stock 140mms to the top).
Yeah same here, been console since I retired after lots of Counter Strike on PC back in 2003-2005ish, but I was disappointed with the new console specs and built this. Played the first 2 levels of campaign last night on Ultra, super smooth, no issues... until Direct-X crashed while browsing the web with the game in the background.
lol didn't even occur to me, would look crazy, but be so much work/involve so much tape + w/ cats = dead machine and fried cat if one of the molexs or something was dangling a bit.
$50 off. So it wound up being like a $50 difference between the 1ms VG248QE and ASUS's slower/cheaper 24"
Honestly it's a little bright :P and the strip LEDs are on low :P
Haven't set up Linux yet, but Win8 has good partition utilities baked in, so I set that up already, and I've done dual boots before, once you get the partitions everything else is cake.
Could have drenched it in red but you went for white LEDs, classy.
You gaming on all 3? What games support it well?
Being able to justify two new monitors(my last desktop was an iMac and an ancient gateway monitor 18in sqaure) I wanted a matched pair....and yeah if I get another 770 down the road I might buy a 3rd (keeping my options open)...I caught them on sale (- $50 a piece IIRC) too.
Wow, he took it to a whole nother level, I just bought a dirt cheap action figure on ebay and some green lights. :P
Nah, independent creative process. When did he build it? This thing has been a parts list for probably almost two month now w/ all the issues and everything.
Pretty sure I looked through all the Carbide Air builds I could find at the time.
Also do you have a link I would like to see what he did?
She had a bum PSU (or I broke it somehow?) that keep frying my mobos when I plugged in the fans (whole system would run fine until then).
Went through 3 rounds of RMAs...Probably built this machine over 4 times now. Just relieved to have it running.
So far so good, downloading BF4 now so I'll see how that goes. I also haven't calibrated them or really played with the settings.
They can go portrait which is really cool for web stuff (if I can get win8 to recognize) and they actually look cooler IRL than pictured (they have a little red bezel and some accents, etc.)
From my research they are going to be mediocre for like photo editing/hardcore design and such (looks a little flat/washed compared the MAC 27" I use at work) but amazing for gaming and refresh rate (and it's not like the color is poor by any means).
Zombie Thread Update:
After 3 (yes 3) RMAs and buying a new Mobo flat out because of the pin issue and buying a fan controller thinking I was blowing fan headers I finally determined that it was the PSU, which was frying my mobo every time I plugged in the fans(? still don't know why, I dunno if I did something F-ed up or what?). Anyway after getting a new unit the build went smooth as silk.
I looked this AM again and it looked just about impossible. Two of the pins are practically wrapped around each other...I will try.
Other problem with that is now I can't troubleshoot the original issue and be sure it's not the pins. Why did I try to put that stupid cover back on?
I have a multi-meter and another PSU but it gets worse...
I decided to clean off the chip and get ready to RMA the board and of course I bent at least 3 pins putting the #&*@ing plastic cover back on, irreparably destroyed...
I don't even know what do to do, will they RMA it now? or should I just go drop another $220 on another Mobo?
...I'm about to curl up in the fetal position out of frustration and helplessness.
Kinda like this bad boy? http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1xmZq
Maybe your 780 came loose or overheated or something? Did you try re-seating it, restarting and giving BF3 another go?
Why 4G video ram?
The caches are quicker, they revised a lot of stuff and Mobo functionality has been moved to the chip freeing up more of your bridge... it's a 15%-25% performance increase depending on what you are doing. The disadvantage is that it runs hotter than the 3770 so if you are going to be clocking you have account for that in cooling, but a 4770 running at 4.2 is equivalent to a 3770 running at 4.5
The Ivy will be fine but its really not a price issue... I just built this very similar haswell machine for nearly the same price if you take away the second monitor
Your case can accommodate a larger motherboard (standard ATX) but you have selected a smaller micro-ATX board which is meant for smaller cases. I would keep the case, space is good for future expansion, good for air flow, good for cable management and highly re-usable.
You might also drop to 16Gb of ram for now and throw another 16 in later when prices drop and put the money into a high quality PSU or something.
It will be a pretty nasty machine for sure though.
Looking at your 1 saved parts list, why not go 4770 for near the same amount of money as the 3770 and get an 1150 mobo that can handle future upgrades?
Also why not Full ATX size if expandability/future proofing is your goal and you are looking at an ATX case?
The 4770 is going to be nice for the 3d Modeling/Video, so you might want to keep it depending on how much of that you are doing.
I would recommend keeping the 16gb of ram for photoshop/3D, when developing I tend to have a great number of programs open at once Photoshop, Illustrator, localhost, multiple browsers, IDE, phone sims... and the RAM pays off in spades.
Heck I would actually add a second monitor depending on what type of dev work you are going to be doing.
You could have the kit and caboodle for $3500....A liquid cooled monster with a 1000+ watt PSU, a massive SSD and two 780's in SLI, etc.