It's just the parametric filter they use. It automatically chooses the cheapest item that fits all the filters that they set. The build guides are just that, guides. These are meant more as a starting point for different budgets where you can then edit it to your preferences.
So, the issue here is if you are going to use RGB fans or not. If you are, I would pick one type for the whole case. Corsair RGB fans (such as the LL-120 RGBs) require a Corsair lighting hub to control the RGB via iCue (their control panel software) and you cannot mix different series of their RGB fans on one lighting hub/controller. So, you would have to buy multiple controllers (which can get expensive).
If you don't plan on using RGB, you can mix their other fans in your case however you like. But you still want to avoid plugging different model fans in to the same header (when using a splitter).
As for which fans you should use, if you're getting a Corsair AIO, the come with Corsair's ML120s (non-RGB) or LL120s (RGB) depending on the model and are generally considered good coolers with adequate airflow through the fin stack, so you'd be just fine leaving the stock fans on the radiator. For the case fans, it really depends on the case and how much resistance the fans will encounter trying to pull air in or push it out. I would look more at their airflow rating (CFM) moreso than their static pressure rating unless you have a particularly restrictive front panel for intake.
Sorry for the long post. Hopefully it was helpful.
Yes, plugging 5 fans in to a single header would cause the BIOS (or other software) to treat that header as one fan. The y-splitter is the same, just for 2 fans.
Personally, I would avoid a 5-fan splitter simply because I'd rather have more control over the fan curve.
For example: if I have 2 fans for intake and 2 more for exhaust, I would prefer to have my intakes plugged in to one header and the exhaust in another. This way, as temperatures inside the case climb, I'm able to speed up the intake while allowing the exhaust to remain the same. This increases cooler airflow in to the case and helps reduce the noise that I would have if all 4 fans sped up together.
You may not need a monitor with 2 HDMI inputs. Most (if not all) GPUs and, if you're using on-board graphics, motherboards come with at least one displayport (DP) output. This would greatly open up your options for a monitor as most come with 1 DP and 1 HDMI input. Then you would be free to connect your PC via DP and your PS4 via HDMI.
I'm a simple man. I see E:D, I upvote. o7 CMDR.
What is the refresh rate for your TV (rated in mHz)? Also, is your GPU pushing more frames per second (FPS) than your TV can display? If your FPS is higher than your TV's refresh rate then, depending on which monitor you choose, you would see an increase in performance.
And response time (measured in ms)? Response time is basically input lag and measures how long it takes for pixels in the screen to respond to the signal they are given. Lower response time is better, especially in competitive games.
Also, are you satisfied with the picture quality on your TV? Panels vary. Some 4K TVs are better than others for color accuracy and brightness (as well as the ability to dim).
In my opinion, if you are satisfied with the picture quality and you aren't pushing more FPS than your TV can handle with a reasonably low response time, why spend money on a smaller screen. If you want to continue gaming at 4K on a monitor, especially anything rated above 100 mHz, you're probably going to pay more than you did for your 43" 4K TV and you're going to end up with a smaller display.
My guess is that he he means he cleared CMOS.
I just did some googling, and from what I can tell, there is no way to recover your key if you lost it and it is not found in your Microsoft.com account. From what I can tell, you'll likely have to purchase a new key. I just happened to stumble across a somewhat relevant Reddit post earlier in r/buildapc where someone claimed that they had contacted Microsoft support and purchased a new key for $30 as opposed to the full price.
Hopefully I'm wrong and someone with more knowledge points you in a more helpful direction.
For $1900 (I excluded you OS from the total) there is really no reason to not get a 2080 Super. I personally budget around the GPU for any gaming build and I usually factor it in as 40% of the overall cost. For example, if I'm planning on a $1800 build, I should be looking at a GPU around $720.
Also, while I love the way the 680X looks, it's a REALLY expensive case. So, unless it's an absolute must for you, I might consider finding something cheaper (around $100) to give you the saved money to put in to something like upgrading to the 2080 Super.
As far as your drives, 2TB NVME drives are expensive and don't really improve gaming experiences over a traditional SATA SSD. I would, in your case, stick with a 1TB SSD (either m.2 or SATA) and then add on a 2-4TB 7200rpm HDD as a mass storage. This way, you can store the games/media that you use most often on the SSD and use the games/medical you use less often on the HDD. This will also save money that you can then put towards a more powerful GPU (or monitor, etc.).
Just my 2 cents. But, build what makes you happy. If that 680X makes you happy with the 2070 Super, stick with it. It's your rig, after all.
Just to add on to jduptons comment, I ran across this video on YouTube today: https://youtu.be/RYYoCXh2gtw
In the setting up windows portion, he talks about what to do of you can't find one of your drives. Hope this is helpful.
Noctua now makes "chromax" branded vanity plates that you can purchase to change the color of the top of coolers they make (like the NH-D15).
I've read so many differing opinions on this. Initially, I heard how well the included cooler performed at managing CPU temps. But then I've read that people have had issues with thermals without overclocking. I wasn't sure what to believe.
Being able to save ~$100 by sticking with the stock cooler would allow me to budget in a few more case fans to help (potentially) reduce noise during gaming.
What reason or reasons would make you look for other chairs?
Thanks for the comment!
Great build. I'm more than a little envious!
Also, how do you like you Secret Lab chair? I was thinking of purchasing the Titan model.
A lot of gamers/streamers would get the 9900K because it is an 8-core, 16-thread chip that really is the best mainstream chip for gaming.
However, since the release of 3rd generation Ryzen processors like the 3900X, the 9900K really just barely hangs on to the "best for gaming" title when it comes to overall performance.
Further, the Ryzen chips are priced below their Intel counterparts in a way that tips the price to performance ratio in favor of the Ryzen processors. So, basically, you're getting better performance per dollar spent than you would with Intel.
Lastly, as someone already mentioned in another reply to your comment, the Z390 chipset for Intel has pretty much reached the end of it's life cycle. Once the next generation of Intel CPUs comes out, they will be transitioning to the Z490 chipset. I feel this really only matters if you plan on upgrading in the next couple of years. With AMD, their most recent higher end X570 boards are still, on average, a bit more expensive than the higher end Z390 boards from Intel.
In the end, you're going to get pretty much the same performance out of both options when it comes to gaming and streaming. If you do video editing, though, I would go with Ryzen since it offers more cores/threads for those kinds of workloads. If you plan on doing serious overclocking on your CPU, I would recommend the 9900K because it gives you more headroom to bump up the frequency. The Ryzen chips have been well designed to utilize a lot of their potential at stock rates and therefore don't have quite as much headroom for overclocking.
Sorry for such a long response. I just wanted to share with you what I've learned in my research for a build that I'm planning. I still haven't reached a decision on which platform to use. Good luck.
What are your CPU temperatures like when this happens?
This is an absolutely amazing build! I have to admit that I'm a little envious of your creativity in making a build like this come together. I don't think I'd ever be able to come up with something like this and make it work. Well done!
In short, your motherboard and CPU are incompatible.
A little bit more: While your i7-6700T uses the same socket (LGA 1151) that your Z390 board uses, the Z390 chipset only recognizes 8th and 9th Gen CPUs (-8xxx and -9xxx).
Also, if I'm not mistaken, the the -6700K utilizes DDR3 memory, while the 8th and 9th Gen CPUs utilize DDR4, which would also create an incompatibility with the CPU. I could be mistaken on this last part, but I'm fairly confident that it is true.
Edit: I was wrong on the last part. Apologies.
Ah, assimilation...that explains Noctua's massive following in the world of CPU cooling.
Kyle, from Bitwit on YouTube, posted a video a couple years ago about radiator placement in a build (in this case front mounted vs. top mounted) and tested temperatures of the CPU and GPU under load with different configurations (radiator placement as well as GPU type [open shroud vs. blower style]). I linked it below for reference if you want to check it out. His final findings are around the 12 minute mark. But he did find that the placement impacted the CPU noticeably while the GPU remained largely unaffected (change of 2°C or so).
Also, good luck with your build. :)
Fantastic build. So clean!
Personally, I would mount the radiator on the front intake. You'll see a better drop with CPU temps with no real impact on the GPU. I've linked a video from a couple years ago by Bitwit where he tests CPU and GPU temps with an AIO in different configs below. The results are at about the 12 minute mark.
Clean build. I like it. I'd give you another +1 if I could for your awesome desktop background.
Great build! The H440 is my absolute favorite case. This case has an awesome, sleek look to begin with and the cable management and part selection you have only enhanced that clean look. Well done! +1 (more if I could :)
I don't know how you feel about AMD builds (some people have very strong opinions one way or the other) but here is an alternate build that I saw (mostly) on youtube.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
The case is just a budget one, but you can find others for about the same price.
Well, if you don't overclock it, I believe the Gigabyte G1 Gaming 970 (1.18Ghz I believe) has the highest factory clock of the cards currently available.
Jackfrags has a "budget" build he made in a video that is very similar to yours:
The only real difference is in the GPU. With a r9 270x and 8GB of dual channel RAM, he was able to get battlefield 4 on high/very high up to 70fps.
What are you using for storage?
I'd also switch out the single stick of 8GB RAM for two 4GB sticks. You'll get better performance running dual channel.
Tomshardware reported that windows 9 (now announced as Windows 10 for whatever reason) will be available to Windows 8.1 users for free and will be available to Windows 7 users for $30.
More of just an aesthetic recommendation, you have a windowed case with a mobo that doesn't match any of your other parts (i.e. GPU, RAM). But again, it's your build.
I would recommend getting 2x4GB memory as opposed to the single 8GB stick just so you can take advantage of the dual channel.
Thanks for the advice on cooling. You've definitely given me some great options to consider.
Oh, and also, thanks in advance for your input (as well as for taking the time to read my thread!).
Best advice I can give, price vs. performance, is to switch out the GTX 770 for a GTX 970. It's roughly the same price, but considerably more powerful. You can see some of the benchmarks here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-970-maxwell,3941-8.html
With the new 900 series just releasing from Nvidia, I would ditch the GTX 770 and go with a GTX 970. It's cheaper and considerably more powerful.
Here's a round-up of all the board partners from Tomshardware: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-gtx-980-970-roundup,27716.html
I've never personally owned a Seagate HDD, but I've heard that they have a higher failure rate than Western Digital. So perhaps go for a WD Caviar Blue HDD. It's roughly the same price (+/- $10).
Well, as you haven't posted the part list yet, I thought I'd help out with the monitor selection. https://pcpartpicker.com/part/acer-monitor-umfg6aab01 I've seen a number of people recommend this particular monitor as a great budget monitor and it has come down in price recently (was over $300).
I agree with the GTX 970. Personally, I'm waiting for EVGA's GTX 970 FTW ACX 2.0 to release for ~$360.
If you don't mind stepping down to a 24" monitor, I've heard really good things about this monitor (and it's almost $200 cheaper): https://pcpartpicker.com/part/acer-monitor-umfg6aab01
Agreed. And for the -$200 difference, you're getting almost the same performance as the GTX 780 ti.
edit: Also, by switching to the GTX 970, you'll be reducing your TDP which would likely allow you to buy a smaller load PSU, also shaving off some cost.
This review also shows the 970 outperforming the 290/290x: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-970-maxwell,3941.html
I also wanted to say that I was in the process of creating a new build with the 280x until I saw this review yesterday and the 970's performance for the price just can't be matched right now.
If you can save up around 100 pounds, I would try to get a new GTX 970. It's a bit more on the cost side, but it far out-performs the 280x. If you want to see some comparative benchmarks, check out this review: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-970-maxwell,3941.html
Thanks for the feedback. :)
The only concern I would have with the power supply is that the manufacturer recommends a minimum of 750W for that particular GPU.