I believe you need to set the game to windowed mode in order to do this.
Nice choice of components and looks like good cable management from what I can tell. Enjoy.
Yes, the Hyper 212 RGB Black is compatible and supports the AM4 socket. You should not have any issues with your case or motherboard. I'm assuming you will be using this cooler instead of the Deepcool that is currently in your build.
If you want to go with the 1920x1200 display ratio, I'm extremely happy with the Acer B247W.
I'm running a dual monitor setup with them and the extra vertical space is great for coding, websites, etc. They are IPS, have a 75hz refresh rate, full range of inputs and adaptive synch.
Understandable and seem like you had a dud. May be worth trying another one if you liked the feel of the mouse & functionality. Otherwise, lots of good options out there.
For whatever it is worth I have the G603 and it has worked flawlessly. I would highly recommend it.
I agree that a good air cooler should be more than enough. I switched over the NH-U14S and couldn't be happier. Completely silent and I'm getting about a 9 - 13 degree improvement in CPU temps. I included some comparison pictures in my build. I switched over due to the noise but the large temp improvement was a welcome bonus.
What program are you using to measure the CPU temperature? Definitely seems high, especially given your case and fans (I'm assuming they are setup correctly). There is the "standard" CPU temp that is 10 degrees higher than the Tdie temperature (which is used by Ryzen Master).
The highest temperature I ever saw on my 2700x with a stock cooler was 80c (70c Tdie) and I have way less fans & ventilation than you have. The stock cooler should be fine, I replaced mine due to the noise, not temps.
I also have the 2700x and didn't like the noise of the Wraith Prism. I went with the Noctua NH-U413. I'm extremely happy with it, very quiet and temps are about 9 to 12 degrees cooler (celsius) than the wraith cooler. From everything I've read, the performance is only 1 to 3 degrees different than the NH-D15S.
There are pictures and comparisons in my build pictures/description.
Not really, I've seen it as low as $140 new, and that included free games (Division 2 and World War Z).
Each manufacturer and motherboard is different. There should be instructions on the website.
From everything I've read over the last several months the consensus seems to be that you are better off using Precision Boost on the 2700x instead of overclocking it yourself.
You will actually need to go into your BIOS to see the BIOS version.
I would plan on getting a B450 or X470 motherboard if you are planning on upgrading to a Ryzen 3 series.
Thanks Mark and you are correct. The max I'm seeing for all cores at the same time is ~4.05 mhz.
I'm using precision boost on my 2700x with a Noctua NH-U14S. I boost to approximately 4.35 mhz and my temps do not get above 55C. So, I cannot imagine water cooling being much different.
Go to Device Manager. You can see the drivers for each device by double clicking on it and going to the Driver tab.
You probably need to update your BIOS to choose your boot options.
The parts you have picked are fine. The case may affect your choice in motherboard, GPU and PSU so you will want to make sure it is all compatible.
Glad you figured it out and thanks for reporting back.
Nice job on your first build, looks really good. Your CPU temps are fine and nothing to be concerned about. You can always lower them by adding an aftermarket CPU cooler if you want, but it is not necessary. Also, it may not look as nice but it may help a little bit if you completey remove the cover on the bottom shroud to let your third intake fan move air more efficiently.
Potentially dumb question but are you sure it is not the monitor that is the issue?
I'm assuming the fans are running when it powers on.
Do not get a CPU with a built-in video processor if you are adding a video card.
Get a motherboard that is compatible with the processor (e.g. if going with a Ryzen 5 1600, get a B450 motherboard)
Get a GTX 1660 over the 1060 video card. Or a RX 580 if you want to go a bit less expensive.
No need for more than a 550w PSU
Also, I wouldn't bother with that CPU cooler. Stick with the stock AMD Wraith Stealth or get a better one. I would suggest staying stock and see if it works well for you.
Everything looks good to me. I'm not very familiar with Corsair storage (M.2 drive), but I'm sure it is fine. Just not sure how it compares to bigger brand names like Samsung, Crucial, WD, Intel.
A 650W power supply is better suited for your build, but the 750W will be OK if you want to stick with that one.
I've always liked air based CPU cooler more than liquid, but your selection is good.
If that is the case, then I would place two new 140mm fans on the front as intake fans and move the included 120mm fan to the top as an exhaust.
I would purchase at least one more 120mm case fan for the intake. Alternatively, you could use the provided 120mm as an exhaust fan on the top of the case and buy two 140mm case fans for the front (intake). With all that being said, you would probably be OK without any additional case fans and you can always start out that way and add them as needed.
The Noctua NH-U14S is a much more "manageable" size and costs about $20 less. From all the various reviews and benchmarks it is only about a 1 to 3 degree difference from the NH-D15.
I have the NH-U14S and I'm extremely happy with it.
https://www.displayninja.com/gaming-monitor-list/ offers some good monitor reviews and lists. You can filter their lists on size, resolution, display type, refresh rate, etc. to narrow down your choices.
Here is a list of all (approximately) 24" monitors from this site with the following filters:
PC Part Picker Monitor List
I should be fine since it has a DisplayPort input (adaptive synch will work with Nvidia). The specs look good on it but I do not know if it is in the same league as other 24" 144hz offerings from Asus, Acer or Benq.
The Noctua NH-U14S is extremely quiet and works great (within 1 - 3 degrees of the NH-D15. The only cons I can think of would be the price and potentially the appearance. Some people do not like the look of the Noctua fans.
Looks like a solid build.
Do you need WIFI/Bluetooth? If no you can go with a MOBO like the MSI Tomahawk to save some money. You also could go this route and add a PCIE wifi card.
Another place where you could save some money would be to get a smaller M.2 storage drive (e.g. 250 or 500 GB) and supplement with a 3.5" drive.
That all being said, you will not be saving a lot, but every dollar counts.
Why get an integrated graphics CPU like 2200G and also add a video card?
It took them a few extra weeks but I did receive my Steam gift card from Seasonic this week. I had contacted them through their website a couple weeks ago just to make sure there weren't any problems. Customer support was excellent and responsive.
Those are common "warnings" and will not affect your build at all. Also, on that note, you do not need a 750w PSU. 550w should be fine for your build.
As others have said, the stock Wraith Prism cooler will work fine with the 2700x. However, it is loud which is why I replaced mine. I would try it first and see if it works for you. If not it is easy to change it out for an aftermarket cooler.
Your build list is private, cannot view it.
Your logic for RAM slots is good. That being said, do you need more than 16GB right now?
Cannot comment on the PSU without seeing the build. It is dependent on the CPU, GPU and what sizes the case allows. That all being said, I would suggest a fully modular PSU if you are building in a smaller case.
Looks good to me. The only thing you may want to consider would be an aftermarket CPU cooler. It will be easier to add during your initial build instead of potentially having to remove the motherboard if you want/need to add one later.
I think you should be fine and from looking at the motherboard specifications. It seems to be an issue with the pcpartpicker build logic and not your actual components.
On a different note, looks like a very solid build.
Using the M.2 slot shares the SATA port bandwidth (disables it). However, the motherboard has 6 SATA 6GB/s ports and you only have 5 storage devices. So, I'm not really any help.
Many times the cable should have some labeling on the sheath letting you know if it is CAT5, 5e, 6, etc.
Yes it will.
I do not believe the actual screen size matters as far as the "amount" of a page that is displayed. In other words a 21" and a 24" 1920x1080 resolution will both show the same amount of a document. It is the size of the text and # of pixels per inch that are affected.
That is why 1080p is ideal up to 24". At 27" you are better off going with a 2k or 4k resolution.
This probably gives a better explanation than I did https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/computer-monitor-buying-guide/
Likewise, nothing I would change. You can always easily add an aftermarket CPU cooler at a later date if needed or add additional storage.
You can get a refurbished GTX 1060 6GB for $140 right now on the EVGA B-Stock sale - https://www.evga.com/products/feature.aspx.
However, you will probably need to act quick, they usually do not last long....
I just installed the Noctua UH14S on my AMD 2700x a couple weeks ago. Same mounting system and it was a little tricky. I definitely had to apply some pressure to get the mounting screw to start threading onto the mounts. One suggestion would be to use two screwdrivers and attempt to put pressure on both and try threading at the same time.
For the case, you wouldn't go wrong with the Fractal Design Meshify S2. They also have tempered glass versions. The Define S2 is another option.
For the motherboard, the MSI B450 Pro Carbon AC is a great board with built in WIFI/bluetooth.
I have the ASRock X470 Master SLI which would meet your requirements. There have been complaints about the VRMs on this board, but I have not had any issues at all (running 2700x CPU and AMD precision boost). There are other X470/B450 boards as well that have built-in WIFI.
Another thing you can consider which would really open up your choices would be to just use a PCI-E card for WIFI. They should run in the $30 - $40 range and can be used in other builds as well if/when needed. For example - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di
Add all of your parts to the System Builder on this site. It will show you your estimated wattage. Then you can determine the best PSU for your needs. Typically it is recommended to be in the 50 - 65% range of the estimated wattage (e.g. if 300w estimated, a 550w PSU would be perfect).
You are missing power supply...
Overlicking and overclocking are both easy, one more so than the other :).
In all seriousness, if you are going with one of the AMD Ryzen x series CPUs, just use the AMD precision boost. It is essentially safely overclocking the CPU for you, without you having to do anything.